ctrain22

Are there any grounds (or lack of) to the dash that would prevent the car from starting cold? I have developed this wierd thing that when I try to start the car up cold, it cranks but doesn't fire. Then all of a sudden, she fires and is good to go from there until it sits over night. Interestingly, it fires right when I hear beeps coming from radio, as if it just got power. I don't think its getting power to the ignintion. I seemed to notice that I have no power to the right side of the fuse box. I replaced the ignition switch thinking that was the problem, but still does it. When it fires, fuse box has power. Isd tghere a relay or something that would delay electric to the fuse box and ignition??

Lady72nRob71

Very strange indeed. No delay relays or anything. You replaced the ignition switch - my first suspect.
Now there should be a yellow(?) wire going from the coil to the starter solenoid, which gives full power to the coil when cranking (bypasses the resistor wire from fuse block). Make sure it is there and connected.

As for the right side of the fuse block losing power, check for loose or dirty / corroed connections from the ignition switch (if you haven't already.) It gets its power right from the ignition switch.

It is possible there are two problems here...

rocketraider

First- do you have a 1968 Olds A-body wiring diagram? If not, you need to get a 1968 chassis manual.

Next- is car still on the points distributor or is it converted to HEI (or Pertronix etc) ?

The "right side" of the fuse box (radio, t/signals, wipers etc) is hot only with ignition switch in RUN or ACC, so that part is functioning right.

You've already replaced the ignition switch. Did the plug look OK and terminals clean?

What I would check, in this order, is:

1) The resistance (pink or white sleeved) and starting power (yellow) wires to the coil (-) terminal. May be a dirty or intermittent connection there which often causes hard start problems, esp if the yellow wire is broken and car is trying to start off the resistance wire.

2) the 10 ga red wire from the battery (+) terminal to the horn relay/junction block at the battery and relay ends.

3) the fusible link wire from the JB to the main wiring harness. It's close to the the JB end of the red feed wire.

4) the battery ground cable connection to the fender or frame. This is a small gage wire that bolts to the fender or the frame rail.

There is no relay in the circuit unless someone has added one. The only ground on the ignition switch is for the dash idiot lights test.

Good luck.

Lady72nRob71

I forgot to suggest that you look for hacks and crap other previous owners might have added, like starter kills, radios, crimped wiring splices, etc. Stuff like that can cause problems if not done properly.
I cannot forget how my car's cigar lighter was secretly connected to a solid state power antenna relay. When I pushed the lighter in (to see if it worked) when the radio was on, I started the relay on fire! There was also a CB box under the dash with 20 feet of antenna cable, so they were probably related somehow...

ctrain22

Thanks for all the suggestions. I am going to start with the connections at ign switch. For some reason, I think this all started when I put in the radio. I connected the power source to the original radio lead, but maybe working under dash, I loosened something. So....back under the dash we go.

Mingus

I would check the new switch. I had a brand new one that did not work in the start position. The odds are pretty long that you would get a new switch that has the same problem as your old one, but I've had stranger things happen.
I'd put some dielectric grease on the connector too. It will help make contact if it's corroded.