m371961

65 98 convert
1. Where is schematic for top pump control? Don't see it in CSM drawing.
Where does feed come from.?
My top is now operating from switch, but I don't know what feeds it.
2. Any thoughts on adding remote control to operate?
Thinking of something similar to a remote control on a elec. winch. Don't know of a good supplier for this sort of relay and control.
Anybody done this?
Thanks, Pat

joe_padavano

The schematic is in the Fisher Body Manual, not the CSM.

The feed comes from a circuit breaker that is fed from one of the accessory taps on the fuse box.

I'm failing to see the benefit of a remote. You still have to be inside the car to unlatch the front latches on the top. Is it that much more work to reach the switch?

MDchanic

I like the idea of waterproof remote switches inside the rear wheelwells, so you can jockey the top around a bit while making sure that it folds all smooth and nice, but I have never actually installed one.

- Eric

m371961

This is one of my reasons, and make it easier while making top frame adjustments, be able to pull in a parking lot, close lid enough to run in for a sec., and because its different.
I been looking in body manual, but ain't found it yet.
A key fob remote like on a 4wheeler winch would keep all elect. in cabin.

MDchanic

Just set it up so that the switch activates the motor through relays, then you can activate the same relays with any other device you wish.

Power goes through a circuit breaker to the switch, then to either the UP or DOWN wire, then to the motor - it's very simple.

- Eric

m371961

Yeh, I know how, want to locate the breaker, and the 4x winch uses remote op relays and a 3 way momentary switch, if I find the parts.
As I understand it, current factory setup only uses breaker and a 30 A switch correct?

MDchanic

Yep, that's it, as long as it's the same as the later cars (I'm familiar with the '68-'72s mostly, and the '71-'76 B-bodies are different from all the others).

The breaker should be mounted on the engine side of the firewall near or behind the brake booster, or possibly on the opposite side, up under the dash. If you have power windows, it probably controls them as well.

The dashboard switch switches the full amperage, which may be 30A, but is in that neighborhood anyway.
You get much more mileage out of your switch by going through relays.

The '71-up big cars use a very different motor and relay system, but you shouldn't have to worry about that.

- Eric

m371961

Thanks, never found diagram in Body manual. I have a CB I replaced for power windows, located where you said, must power both. Replaced with a new Buss brand when working on windows. Switch is not original and I figured it would be better to someday wire it through relays, but works now.
Found remote relays and control on e-bay, but due to the amps used for pump, may have to wire it through different relays, or do more research on what amps the ones offered will handle. I figure one for a winch however should handle the amps.
I was hoping to get you to pitch in on this, thought I read somewhere you mentioning adding another switch.
Thanks again

MDchanic

I put up a fancy diagram of how to use different relays for the '71-up B-bodies, but the other cars are MUCH simpler, and really don't need one.

Heavy wire from the battery (+) terminal (with an inline 30-40A fuse) to behind back seat, connect other end of heavy wire to the switched input for two foglight relays (30-40A, about $4 each at the auto parts store), connect wires to motor (which used to go to the top switch) to the other side of the switch of each relay, connect one side of the coil of each relay to ground, connect other side of the coil of each relay to one of the wires from the top switch (which used to go to the motor).

Done.

- Eric