Brake light switch for 1966 big cars — low quality latter day replacement...
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Brake light switch for 1966 big cars — low quality latter day replacement...
Just finished the latest battle in the war to keep my 66 98 taillights working properly. No less than 4 reverse lights, brake/turn and 2 running lights per side.
I’ve had trouble with the brake lights for decades. Bad grounds, oxidized leads, broken wires, worn out sockets, painted over grounds, etc.
Latest trouble was bulbs would light up with jumper, but were not activated by the switch. So I checked the switch - and it worked correctly on my multimeter. And the jumper confirmed correct function of the wiring to the taillights. But they wouldn’t work together. hmm.
I won the latest battle by grinding about 1/8” inch off the plastic nose of the brake light switch with my dremel. Turns out the switch wasn’t opening quite far enough when I depressed the brake pedal, so the lights didn’t go on. Even at the extreme end of the adjustment screw. Grinding just a bit off the switch “nose” allowed the it’s piston more travel and achieved correct function.
I suspect my Napa part was a latter day many-years replacement part whose slightly too-long nose worked better in cars not so old as mine. Anyway it just took a few minutes to slightly modify a part to work right.
hope this helps some of you as well.
cf
I’ve had trouble with the brake lights for decades. Bad grounds, oxidized leads, broken wires, worn out sockets, painted over grounds, etc.
Latest trouble was bulbs would light up with jumper, but were not activated by the switch. So I checked the switch - and it worked correctly on my multimeter. And the jumper confirmed correct function of the wiring to the taillights. But they wouldn’t work together. hmm.
I won the latest battle by grinding about 1/8” inch off the plastic nose of the brake light switch with my dremel. Turns out the switch wasn’t opening quite far enough when I depressed the brake pedal, so the lights didn’t go on. Even at the extreme end of the adjustment screw. Grinding just a bit off the switch “nose” allowed the it’s piston more travel and achieved correct function.
I suspect my Napa part was a latter day many-years replacement part whose slightly too-long nose worked better in cars not so old as mine. Anyway it just took a few minutes to slightly modify a part to work right.
hope this helps some of you as well.
cf
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August 2nd, 2011 04:40 PM