Hey guys it is that time for ordering new parts. I was wondering who made the best and most reliable electrical blocks for multiple acessories? ac, ignition,nos control box etc. I am open for experienced answers

 

Are you looking for a junction block or a fuse block? Personally, I think GM made the best and most reliable. I get mine from wrecking yards. Nearly every 1980s vintage GM pickup has a really nice, robust junction block on the firewall. Many GM cars have small fuse blocks or combination fuse/relay/junction blocks under the hood these days. The aftermarket ones all appear to be based on the GM designs.

 

All I can find are fuse blocks designed for marine use. They do offer screw terminals, newer blade fuses and nifty covers. They are limited to around 10 circuits max. Guess boats don't need a bunch of dedicated circuits? Auto blocks often need specialty pinning tools to insert the wiring. I like spade lug or screw terminal style.

 

Seriously? Heck, EVERYBODY sells aftermarket automotive fuse blocks. Try Speedway Motors, Painless Wiring, American Autowire, Waytek Wire, etc, etc.

Google is your friend.

 

Google may be your friend but I was looking for something in a 8-10 circuit without flasher relay sockets. Painless are painful. As an example, a common 12 position run $200+ with features I can't use. Only marine applications had the basic block with 10 blade fuses, easy mount and run $60. I have one after a lot of hunting finding too many features or simple aux. boxes. Most automotive aux. 3 circuit boxes are $60.

The poster was asking about additional accessories not a replacement. Guess it depends on what your willing to spend?

 

First of all, the OP never told us what he/she was looking for, despite the fact that I specifically asked that question. Second, as to price, you'll note my first post in this thread:

 

^^ You are correct. The post is ambiguous as to what they are looking for. I assumed they were seeking additional circuits as mentioning NOS etc. I did spot your used block tip and wondered how to pin a used block? The units I've looked at had wires internally terminated where you'd have to butt splice onto the chopped wires rather than attach to the block via screw terminals.

I was speaking to anyone who may find the tip useful for whatever their application is. The marine thing is interesting as they can be found for reasonable pricing where some may not stumble across that. I think we both agree, $200 specialty "street rod" boxes are crazy money when other options are to be had.

My experience was discovering intermittent brake lamp failure was due to my old-timey glass fuse block. They attached the fuse clips mechanically to the bus bars. I was troubleshooting at night and found when pressing a volt meter probe to the fuse, it arc flashed behind the fuse. They basically corrode and get loose. These are dangerous and can make you crazy if you don't know the fuse holder itself is the fail point. I sure missed it and $60 later made a clean upgrade with the boat flavor. Have a look >>

http://www.iboats.com/Screw-Terminal...view_id.163741

 

I personally don't like the screw terminal style. I prefer factory style connectors (Packard 56 or, ever better, Weatherpak). You can get the fuse block connectors from several wire harness suppliers and crimp them yourself. I also have never had a problem with inline splices that are soldered and have shrink tubing on them.

 

For electric fuel pumps, CD players, etc., try the Painless Cirkit Boss, perfect way to add electrical components without hacking your OEM wiring.

 

I have toyed with the idea of swapping in a later model ATO style fuse block into my Olds. However, the idea of cutting and splicing every wire from the original harness to the newer style really has no appeal to me. I would much rather find a fuse block that fits under the dash in the factory location, and making my own connections using factory style fuse block buss connectors and terminals. The Painless setup is OK I guess, the idea of having to terminate every single wire using the original style plugs and connectors is a hassle, more splices and still having to deal with 40 plus year old hardware.

 

This is expensive, but looks like what you need.

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BB-99

 

hey guys i had a lot of work to do first and did not check back here. I am looking for the best in quality through experienced use to add additional acessories on. I call it a block but what is the correct term for a add on holder.

 

Pick yer poison, these pretty much cover the gammut of what types are out there.

http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=fuse%20panel

 

As I posted earlier use the Painless Cirkit Boss, the only way to go when adding circuits. I installed mine behind the left kick panel on a fabricated sheet metal bracket.