different blocks for stick or automatic tranny
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 154
From: Harvest, AL
different blocks for stick or automatic tranny
hey olds nation!!! i have a question.
can i used an 70 455
that came as an automatic and hook a 3 or 4 speed tranny to it. if not what will i need to do. or is it better to get a block that was hook to a stick. thanks
can i used an 70 455 that came as an automatic and hook a 3 or 4 speed tranny to it. if not what will i need to do. or is it better to get a block that was hook to a stick. thanks
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,173
From: Somerset Wisconsin
As far as I know you'll have to pull the crank and have it drilled. I was able to do it without pulling a head by using a hoist and an adjustable engine puller attachment with a crank on it. The crankshaft needs to spin in just right with delicate control of the procedure. You may want to pull a head to do it. Good luck finding an Olds stick motor.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 766
From: North East PA
You can also use an adapter like the one on this site: http://dickmillerracing.com/store/page14.html
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,802
From: Northern VA
The prior posts have discussed the issues with the AT vs. MT crankshafts, but back to the original question. The BLOCK was the same. Just be aware that some blocks cast after the early 1970s may not have the threaded hole for the pivot ball for the clutch linkage cross shaft (AKA, the Z-bar).
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,257
I did a 100% factory conversion on my 70 442. Used every single GM part, except for the pilot bearing.
I used one of the adapter bearings, after drilling out the crank for input shaft clearance.
Drilling the crank is harder than a wedding dick.......no lie, it is a BITCH.
Anyway, after the conversion, the tranny was hard to shift into reverse.
After about 500 miles, the conversion bearing spun in the ID of the crank.
So I pulled the engine, and brought the crank to my machine shop. Come to find out that the recess in the auto tranny crank was off center to the crank center line. That made the input shaft spin when the tranny was in neutral.
I had the crank drilled out using the specs in the Mondello Tech Manual, and used a BCA7109 bearing.
Works great now.
So, I don't recommend the conversion bearing.
Drilling the crank for the BCA7109 bearing was $150. The bearing is about $20.
I used one of the adapter bearings, after drilling out the crank for input shaft clearance.
Drilling the crank is harder than a wedding dick.......no lie, it is a BITCH.
Anyway, after the conversion, the tranny was hard to shift into reverse.
After about 500 miles, the conversion bearing spun in the ID of the crank.
So I pulled the engine, and brought the crank to my machine shop. Come to find out that the recess in the auto tranny crank was off center to the crank center line. That made the input shaft spin when the tranny was in neutral.
I had the crank drilled out using the specs in the Mondello Tech Manual, and used a BCA7109 bearing.
Works great now.
So, I don't recommend the conversion bearing.
Drilling the crank for the BCA7109 bearing was $150. The bearing is about $20.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,173
From: Somerset Wisconsin
Thanks
I did a 100% factory conversion on my 70 442. Used every single GM part, except for the pilot bearing.
I used one of the adapter bearings, after drilling out the crank for input shaft clearance.
Drilling the crank is harder than a wedding dick.......no lie, it is a BITCH.
Anyway, after the conversion, the tranny was hard to shift into reverse.
After about 500 miles, the conversion bearing spun in the ID of the crank.
So I pulled the engine, and brought the crank to my machine shop. Come to find out that the recess in the auto tranny crank was off center to the crank center line. That made the input shaft spin when the tranny was in neutral.
I had the crank drilled out using the specs in the Mondello Tech Manual, and used a BCA7109 bearing.
Works great now.
So, I don't recommend the conversion bearing.
Drilling the crank for the BCA7109 bearing was $150. The bearing is about $20.
I used one of the adapter bearings, after drilling out the crank for input shaft clearance.
Drilling the crank is harder than a wedding dick.......no lie, it is a BITCH.
Anyway, after the conversion, the tranny was hard to shift into reverse.
After about 500 miles, the conversion bearing spun in the ID of the crank.
So I pulled the engine, and brought the crank to my machine shop. Come to find out that the recess in the auto tranny crank was off center to the crank center line. That made the input shaft spin when the tranny was in neutral.
I had the crank drilled out using the specs in the Mondello Tech Manual, and used a BCA7109 bearing.
Works great now.
So, I don't recommend the conversion bearing.
Drilling the crank for the BCA7109 bearing was $150. The bearing is about $20.
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,802
From: Northern VA
Membership Revoked by Admin
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 52
you missed the post above about the conversion bearing that doesnt require drilling of the crank. it works
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RAMBOW
General Discussion
5
Jul 29, 2013 05:32 PM
