wcourt3010

I've been told AC Delco series 60 battery is the best to put in my 71 cutlass. would appreciate hearing what other people are using. The one i have right now is crap and i'm having electrical problems. battery keeps draining. I've already replaced the alternator and voltage regulator but broke down last week. stopped to fill up and tried to drive away and battery was drained despite my after market volt gauge saying it was charging while i was driving.

any tips on cleaning up battery cables? or might just swap those out as well.

Lady72nRob71

Personally, i think all batteries are expensive crap-shoots. I have had cheapos last for 6 years, expensive ones last for 3, and all in between. For the past 2 years, I have experienced 3 batteries that died within 2 years, right after the prices skyrocketed - go figure.

I would get the cheapest one you can find with a 2 year free replacement warranty (unless you want some special look to go with it)...

oldcutlass

I try to get a black one! I've used all different batteries over the years, so far the cheapey Energiser at Walmart seems to last the longest. I just pull the stickers off the front and run it till it dies.

I'm not big on the multicolored Optima's they just don't look good under there, but I do hear they are a good battery.

droptopron

I have a red top Optima but I just got it. if you are having a problem with it drawing down think abbout adeep cycle. In Optima that would be a yellow.

m371961

I had an optima red top, expensive but went after 5 years. Vehicle had good charging system and no heavy loads. Batteries are a crapshoot. Good cables and ends are a must.
The best I have had are ones I make up myself with welding cable, crimp and solder ends. You can get a crimper in a welding supply store or at better hardware stores in the welding section.
Have you checked for a short or load when vehicle is off? best way is to dissconnect a battery cable. Connect a test light between cable and battery. Make sure all is off, remove bulb from underhood light and fuse from clock or radio. If light is lit, you have a drain.

brown7373

I think a black, rectangular battery looks best. I hate the ones that have both top post and side terminals...one size fits all, or the lime green ones. For a show car, the repro Delco are expensive but they look the best. Last one I had lasted 6 years. They also sell the Delco battery topper. If you have the right size black battery, most people will never know. If it is a car that you show, I think it is a nice look to have a Delco or Delco look alike in there (topper), but at the very least, don't have one that draws peoples eyes away from the engine and compartment you worked so hard on, and to the battery.

Allan R

I have 2 Canadian Tire Motomaster Eliminator batteries that have a 9 year (that's right 9 year) free replacement warranty - not prorated. Warranty is fully transferable to the replacement battery too.

raddios

im not sure of perfect cleaning besides the brush special battery post and terminal cleaner sears die hard is a very good battery ive used it for years

1970cs

I have heard that most swear by Interstate batteries! I have Duralast Gold in my 70 Supreme installed 4-2000, still wings over the 350

On battery drains, let me add that a test needs to be in series with the neg terminal and negative battery cable, if the test light lights you have a drain and need to isolate which piece or cicuit causing the drain. Disconect electrical items one at a time to find the problem.

Pat

droptopron

Don't be surprised in the VR is still the problem. I've had a bitch of a time getting a good one. Take the cable on & off and see if there is a little sparking when you reconnect. Then unplug the VR and try it again.

jensenracing77

for a longer lasting battery, get the lowest CCA battery for your application and climate. if you live in Florida and never see cold weather a lower CCA battery will outlast a higher one every time. if you are in cold weather you have to find your compromise between CCA and longer life. we are using dry cell batteries at work and they have a 5 year free replacement warranty. to run most any dry cell you have to be able to maintain a 14 volt charge. under than and it will shorten the battery life of a dry cell. also many dry cells will maintain a holding charge for over 2 years with no problem.

*ssholesGarage

I would be looking for the cheapest battery with the most CCA, cold cranking amps, look for 600 cca or higher.

stevengerard

WalMart's are Interstate

brown7373

I just had a dead battery in my 72 this weekend. Seems the console light stayed on and drained it. The switch no longer shuts it off. Do those switches go bad? Do they ground out internally, or what could happen? Working the plunger in and out does nothing.

*ssholesGarage

Do you have AAA? They will come and install the right battery in the car, you can get a five year warranty, they will come replace it anywhere it dies, unless somebody has called them out for the third time, because the first time they thought it was aaa's fault and so aaa replaced the battery. then the second time they get you going again and your on your way. this third time now they'ed need a mechanic. I like the towing package it's worth the money and its for any car even if it isnt yours. If you are aaa the battery package is around 125 bucks, they are interstate batteries.

i forgot to mention that the five year deal starts from the date the new battery being installed, if the battery fails in say three years they will come replace and now the five years starts from that date all over again. they do pro-rate the usage though, but its not bad. for three years usage its probably 45 bucks. but compared to if they didnt have aaa they'd be paying 100 bucks on a new one

jerseymike

I have also used batteries from Walmart,never a problem. One thing I have learned that I neve just take it off the shelf and put it in the car, I always put it on a 2 amp charger until it's fully charged and always take the battery from the back,never the front of the display,get the one w/ the newest production month.

Lady72nRob71

Some initial sparks upon battery connection would be very normal if one has any aftermarket electronics installed, like alarms, newer digital radios and especially amps. The filter caps charging up inside them causes the sparks.
An ammeter would be helpful in finding constant drain items.

wcourt3010

thanks for the replies. my issue seems to be after driving a while. car starts up in the garage just fine and the battery is charging. my latest breakdown happened at a gas station. drove the car for about 30 minutes with no problems. checked the gauge and it was charging at 14. pulled inot the station and gassed up and within that 4 or 5 minutes the battery completely drained, car would not turn over at all. got a boost and made it home. car starts up normally at home. guy who gave me a boost said my battery was s**t, said the heat under the hood etc. messes with it. he recommended the AC Delco's, said they're more heavy duty, more suited to classic cars. i was using a motomaster but not the eliminator, just the plain one. i live in a relatively cold climate (toronto) but bring the battery inside at winter when i store the car.

wcourt3010

just to add, if i had a drain would I not be able to start the car at home? i do get a little sparking when i put the battery cables back on but i'm running an aftermarket stereo, i noticed that was commented on earlier.

1970cs

http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/2241796
My Father worked for GM SPO, he had former Delphi people that he worked with and they made Delco batteries, and also ran Walmart automotive batteries down the same line. Please also click on link for supporting my statements.

This information is roughly 2-6 years old, I don't know if Interstate has picked up that contract since then?

AZ455

I use the Wal-Mart EverStart MAXX batteries in my truck. The last one I put in there was going strong after about 6 years. Got 2 years on the current one.

I needed something quick and cheap when I got the Olds, so I picked up a Valucraft from AutoZone. So far so good, but it's only a year old.

stevengerard

DOH, I meant Costco, I have seen the Interstate trucks unloading batteries many times at their tire shops. They also have a great warranty.

Majic Jack

Most batteries today, Sears, Interstate, wal-Mart, Auto Zone, etc. are manufactured by Johnson Controls in a plant down Mexico way. Buy the cheapest free three yr. replacement,no more pro rata.

droldsmorland

Die-Hard Gold... Put it in in 2002 and still going! Of course it was probably made in the USA then....now? When it goes I will try to source a USA made battery. Hopefully one exists?

stevengerard

One does exist, I saw a special recently on them, supposedly they use a better grade of purer lead and that makes them last much longer, they cost more but not in the end. I tried to find them and couldn't - replacing batteries isn't really something you plan for.

Highwayman

Years ago I replaced batteries in two of my cars within a couple months of each other. Both were Sears Die-Hards. One lasted about 3 years and the other lasted 10. A total crap shoot.

I once bought a battery from someplace that had a free lifetime replacement guarantee. They went out of business before the battery died. Too bad, I would have got to them as I still have the same car some 30 years later and it currently needs a battery.

I do always use distilled water in my batteries.

Miles71

Battery
Whatever you get, make sure it fits in to your battery tray. I have a tray for a stock 1971 350 cutlass. The previous owner installed the wrong size battery that did not fit into the tray. The battery would slide around with every high speed turn. So, I took my freshly cleaned and painted tray to the store and tried a few batteries until I found a perfect fit. I also replaced the negative cable, which had shrunk from many poor repairs. If you need to replace the negative cable, I found a 35" (2 gauge) was a good length with a reasonable amount of extra. It’s a 2-man job and its best to jack up the car to access the block bolt. The #2 cable is thick and one person needs to twist the cable while the other attached the block bolt.


Sparking? "I do get a little sparking when I put the battery cables back on but I'm running an aftermarket stereo".


On a stock 71 the only power draw when all is off, is the clock every 5 minutes. You should find a good DVM and set the meter to 10 Amp current mode. With all lights and everything else OFF, connect the meter between the Positive post and positive cable (read the manual before checking current). If you see more than a 500 milliamp load while everything is off, then you have something sucking the life out of your battery.

Battery shot shows a typical 1971 install. The position is different for a 72. The second image is the Negative battery bolt behind the power steering pump.

slantflat

Might think about the starter. It sits fairly close to the engine. When it's cold at home it starts right up, but gets too hot(because it's going bad) when driving and then acts like a dead battery. A boost will get it turning for now, and then when you get back home it cools off and later on will start right up again. This has happened to me.

As far as batteries, I've had the best luck with Advance Auto's Silver battery. The blue one is crap and the gold one I've found doesn't last as long as the Silver one.

brown7373

You may or may not have a bad battery. But what you described, about not being able to start at the gas station sounds like a bad ground or maybe a cable that is either bad, or too small a gauge. I had exactly the same problem with a 455 Pontiac, after a complete rebuild with everything brand new. Long story short...my brand new battery cables I bought from Ames, the Fusick of the Pontiac world looked great but were the wrong gauge. I was supposed to have a 1 or 2 gauge negative, and my new one was a 4. A 2 will flow 10 times as much current as a 4. And when the car is hot, it causes more resistance and it cant't turn the engine enough to start it reliably. Check your connections and your ground. Cables can look good, but corrode and go bad UNDER the insulation. If they are new, make sure they are heavy gauge. The lower the number the thicker and more current it will carry.

Lady72nRob71

500mA is way too much draw. Shouldnt be more than 20mA or so even with aftermarket electronics.
I has hit with the common radio problem with my '86 where the clock display would stay on and it sucked 240mA. Battery would be drained after a week.