Started in on un-doing all the tape and wiring under the hood to the firewall first. Using fresh, 12-gauge wiring for the GEN to VR, like the manual instructs. For the hell of it, I freshly re connected the most recent VR and tried it, to see what happens. Nothing. No increase in voltage. I grabbed an older VR that I had labeled as 'kinda works' and installed it, taking care not to have any of the wires going to the VR to touch, or to touch any metal. I hooked that VR up, polarized the GEN at the VR properly, and now, getting correct charging. I turned on all lights, brights, fan, turn signals, interior lights, and in gear, low idle (having the parking brake engaged), about 13.4 volts.

I plan to replace any questionable wiring and I have begun labeling wires I have strewn about, but why the sudden positive change? This is a trend between all the VRs I have lying in the garage. I have 5 total; the most brand-new one does not work properly, the older one labeled 'kinda works' works perfectly now, and another 40 ampere one (which is 5 amps too much for this vehicle), works as well.

Is this really a wiring issue? Why the variance amongst the VRs? That is the ONLY variable being changed when the charging system seems to work as it should, with 14.5 and slightly above volts, with higher RPMs.

 

I doubt that this is a wiring issue also.
Voltage regulators of this type are adjustable as far as voltage and also current output.
5 regulators, WOW. Sounds like you are all over the place when diagnosing this.
Regulators are adjusted at the factory, but this doesn't mean that they can't be re-adjusted in the field.
Consult your shop manual.
The voltage and current output at curb idle is irrelevant. These systems don't really charge at idle.
You may not get full voltage and amperage from a generator until 1200 RPM.
14.5 volts at higher RPM's is almost too much. Was this with the lights, heater, etc. on?

 

Heater does not work. It has been deleted. It never worked and the ventilation / tubing / wiring for that whole system was a mess when I got the vehicle. That's another project since I don't use the vehicle in the winter or colder weather.
I will check to see if these 35 amp VRs are adjustable. I have an original CSM on the way I got from eBay, with colored wiring.
This has been all over the place for sure. Sometimes after a cruise, and the battery has been charging before departure, I would come back to find that voltage has dropped, and will not move, regardless of engine speed.
I will check into the adjustment this week.

 

Alright. After reading and thinking about Charlie's response to this thread, I took apart the newest, non-working VR (by non-working I mean there was zero change in voltage when engine running, and RPMs increased). I see two slotted / hex screws that can be adjusted. Here are some pictures of the VR opened up. What I did was attach this VR (this is the newest one mind you, that did not 'work') and started the car. I revved the engine with no increase in voltage. I was getting 12.6 with zero fluctuation. I unhooked the negative battery cable, then unhooked the wires from the VR. I opened the VR up and loosened the two adjusting screws. I pressed down on both sides, above the screws, making the contact points tighter. I tightened things up. I reinstalled the VR, with my battery and voltage meter hooked up, boom, 13.7 volts and climbing as I revved the engine.

This leads me to believe the VRs were simply out of adjustment. I may go through all of them and test this theory. With this small adjustment, I am getting proper voltage from a 'non-working' VR.

Pushed down where the red arrows are, increasing the contact pressure. The screws circled are the adjusting screws I think. This changed the behavior of this 'non-working' VR into a working one.

 

There are 3 relays inside the regulator.
The two you pointed out are the voltage regulator and the current regulator.
The voltage regulator is the one with fine wire windings.
The one with the thick windings is the current regulator.
The third relay is the reverse current relay. It shuts the battery off from the generator when the engine is off.
So the battery doesn't try to turn the generator like a motor.

Be careful when adjusting these regulators to set them to the recommended settings.
The current regulator will have to be set with a 60 amp ammeter and a battery load pile.
If the current regulator is set too high it can smoke a generator.

 

So I should start by getting the ammeter pictured. What exactly is a battery load pile? A battery load tester?

 

Yep, that should work.
Yes, a load pile is a battery tester that puts a high amperage load on a battery.
You want to load your battery down to 12 volts while checking or adjusting amperage output.

 

Could I turn on accessories, lights, etc. to get it down to 12V?

 

No, probably not.
When you get your shop manual, you will see just what is needed.

 

Awesome. I will start there. Thanks for the tips, Charlie. I will keep this thread updated when I get the proper testing gear, and when my brand new (original and old) CSM arrives....with colored wiring schematics.

 

My “new” CSM says I need a variable resistance as well. Something I can order off Amazon quickly? It’s an adjustable setup that increases or decreases resistance to lower the voltage right?

 

Something like this;
500 Amp Variable Load Carbon Pile Tester | eBay

 

Found one very similar with good ratings on Amazon. Should be here Saturday.
My Olds manual says to get a thermometer to place about 1/4" from the cover of the VR. Is this something you would advise to do?

 

Never heard of that.
What kind of temp are you supposed to be measuring?

 

The temp of the VR itself, with the cover on. The manual is saying to take the temperature and note the voltage at certain temperatures to make sure the voltage is proper at certain temps.
Says to use a regular mercury filled thermometer. I do have an infrared one. I may skip that portion altogether. I need to get my ammeter set up properly with the shunt, and all my wiring. I watched a short video on wiring it all together, with the load as well.

 

I'm sure you will be OK with an infrared thermometer.

 

I'm having issues with setting this whole thing up. I have the ammeter, and the variable load tester. My manual says to connect the ammeter + (attached to the shunt) to the BATT terminal of the VR. Then the negative of the ammeter to the negative cable on the load tester? What do I do with the positive cable on the load tester? Hook it up right to the positive terminal of the battery? I'm confused here bigtime. Got an example of how to wire and connect all this together so I can start adjusting?

 

Yes, the positive cable goes to battery positive .
You want to set your amperage regulator after you set your voltage regulator.
Make both settings at around 1500 RPM.
When setting the amperage regulator you will be loading the battery down with the load pile so it only has 12 volts.
Then you read the amperage output on the amp meter.
It should be 35 if you have a 35 amp generator. If not adjust the amperage regulator.

 

I Can't even get the ammeter to move. Here are some pics of the setup, all disconnected. Not sure how to connect what to where. My manual is not a lot of help. Let me know if you have some input as to how I connect this mess.

 

OK. the amp meter is a small one that reads amperage flowing thru a shunt. That's the long black bar it is connected to.
The red wire from the shunt should go to the BAT terminal on the regulator.
The blue wire should go to the negative battery terminal.
The two big alligator clips go to their respective battery terminals, red + and black -,
Your load pile tester already has a volt meter incorporated in it.

 

Sending that load pile tester back. The load **** wasn't doing anything. Maybe defective. At any rate, I got nowhere, fast.