tim72

I have an issue in the starting circut causing my battery to draw down overnight. I have a wire that runs from the main post on the solenoid to the Horn relay. when I remove this wire the short goes away. Leaving it on the voltage regulator makes a lot of clicking sounds when I try to attach the positive to the battery. I have checked all fuse's by pulling them out opne at a time with a check at negative with an idiot light. all connections are good according to the olds book. Why is this red wire needed from the startrer sloenid to the horn relay. I did try removing and then starting the car but that did not happen. there is a dead draw in there somewhere and I am having difficulty locating it. I have alos repalced the Starter,alternator, hon relay and Voltage regulator. I am wondering if the draw is from the ignition switch? Any help would be appreciated. this issue was posted in General discusion so I thought I would put it in the proper spot.

Tim72

Yellowstatue

What type of Olds do you have? If the car runs with the wire off and it looks like it is an add-on then leave it off...or remove the wires off the horn relay one by one to see what circuit is giving the problem...thats where the fuse panel gets its power from...or it could be one of the pwr accessories such as pwr windows or roof, etc.

stellar

check for voltage at the reg plug with the car off. You should have volts at only one wire. Let me know what you find Mark

tim72

Mark,
What I found was a number of things. My battery kept drawing down overnight. I took it back to Murrays as it was inly one year old. They said it was fine. A week latter I got ticked and took it back again after spending countless hours checking every thing. The battery this time showed a bad cell. New battery one problem solved. I took the battery lead off the horn relay and the beeping a the voltage regulator stopped. Found or remembered the pos wire from solenoid and too battery are one in the same so I ordered the correct one from fusick along with a horn relay. This cable makes good snse as the mounting to the solenoid is at 90 degre's giving you more room to work with between the dipstick tube and a set of headers. I still have not figured out the blower motor situation but am going to try your sugestion. Thanks for the info. I would have never guesed a dead sell in a battery. Just murphys law.
Tim

Oldsguy

Check the resistor block on the firewall side of the air plenum for your blower motor trouble. This resistor block controls the blower motor speed and has a harness with a number of wires connected to it (3 or 4). The resistors are just coils of resistive wire that load down the motor circuit and if one is burnt open it can affect one or more of the motor speeds. All you have to do it pull the connector off and remove the block with two screws, then you can take it out and inspect it. An open coil would be obvious.

tim72

As an after thought I decide to take my battery in to have it checked at Murrays. We found the battery only a year old had a bad cell. Of course it was the last hing I checked. The replaced the battery for free and that took care of the draw issue.
Thanks for you sugestions

Tim