Batt. Cable removal
#4
Also, be careful as you lower the starter not to pull the smaller wires loose. And as you try to loosen the nut holding the battery cable, be careful that the stud doesn't spin in the bakelite housing on the end of the solenoid, cracking it. Don't ask my how I know these things...
#6
Yep, torque converter plastic cover must come off first.
Exhaust pipe might have to be disconnected also, but that depends on your car.
On mine the starter wedged on the pipe just right for me to undo the wires, then I shoved it back and it fell out.
Of course it was easier with no suspension, wheels, wheel wells and all that unnecessary stuff...
American Autowire has a supurb reproduction set of battery cables, available at Rockauto!
Exhaust pipe might have to be disconnected also, but that depends on your car.
On mine the starter wedged on the pipe just right for me to undo the wires, then I shoved it back and it fell out.
Of course it was easier with no suspension, wheels, wheel wells and all that unnecessary stuff...
American Autowire has a supurb reproduction set of battery cables, available at Rockauto!
#7
One thing I haven't seen anyone mention yet is to PLEASE first disconnect the cables at the battery before attempting to disconnect at the starter. Otherwise you will quickly learn how to arc weld using nothing more than a wrench! That might be obvious to some, but it's the kind of thing I'd forget ....
Incidentally, I know that everyone always attaches the negative cable to the left head, but if you look in the assembly manual it's actually supposed to be attached to the block, down behind the power steering pump. At least that's how it is in '70. The reason everyone goes for the head instead is that, not only is it easier to access, but in order to use the hole in the block behind the pump you need a very special bolt.
Incidentally, I know that everyone always attaches the negative cable to the left head, but if you look in the assembly manual it's actually supposed to be attached to the block, down behind the power steering pump. At least that's how it is in '70. The reason everyone goes for the head instead is that, not only is it easier to access, but in order to use the hole in the block behind the pump you need a very special bolt.
#8
SHHHH!!!!!..... What are you trying to do ruin all of our fun??????
One thing I haven't seen anyone mention yet is to PLEASE first disconnect the cables at the battery before attempting to disconnect at the starter. Otherwise you will quickly learn how to arc weld using nothing more than a wrench! That might be obvious to some, but it's the kind of thing I'd forget ....
#10
#11
#12
I got lucky and was able to replace the pos. cable without dropping the starter. I let my 13 year old son do it with his small hands. He was able to do it in about 30 min. He came out from underneath the car covered in grease with a big smile.
I think that is what restoration is all about.
Larry
I think that is what restoration is all about.
Larry
#14
Incidentally, I know that everyone always attaches the negative cable to the left head, but if you look in the assembly manual it's actually supposed to be attached to the block, down behind the power steering pump. At least that's how it is in '70. The reason everyone goes for the head instead is that, not only is it easier to access, but in order to use the hole in the block behind the pump you need a very special bolt.
thats how mine was on my 72 i just replaced it kind of a PITA, I put the new one in the same location. I checked my 71 and its mounted on the alternator bracket defintely been replaced before
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