Anybody use aftermarket keyless power lock kits with key fob? I have been wanting to add power locks and trunk to my 70 Cutlass. OEM parts are hard to find a are not cheap. I would also like the benefit of the key fob. I see a ton of kits for door locks but not many that include the trunk. I did see repro trunk kits that don’t include a fob for not much so I might go that route. Does anybody have any experience or opinions about the door lock kits? Any good or bad experiences? Also anybody have experience with the repro power trunk kits? They Look different and say they will work for a lot of different cars including Camaro and even Mustangs with a modification. I’m not really concerned with the look as long as it works.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevelle-Ca...0a8f%7Ciid%3A1

 

Maybe this?

http://www.montecarloss.com/communit...&Number=975362

I have installed several remote start/keyless systems over the years, you definitely get what you pay for.

 

Thanks for posting that. Seems like some good info for adding the key fob to existing power door locks, unfortunately I don’t already have power locks. I have a wanted ad for OEM parts just to see what’s out there. If I can get a set cheap enough I might try to add the remote keyless entry(RKE) module, otherwise I’m probably going to get one of the universal kits on eBay. They all look like there made at the same factory and include the same identical parts but the prices seem to vary quite a bit. If there is a better kit for more money that somebody can actually tell me is good I will buy that one. Otherwise I’ll probably just roll the dice with the cheapest kit I can find. It says it has an output for power trunk also so if I that repro power trunk kit above will work for my car I should be able to wire it into this system to work off the key fob too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1980-O...0bca%7Ciid%3A1

 

I used G body door lock actuators on my car, and swapped in a later model power door lock relay from a mid 90s Buick Century. Other than fabbing up the linkage, it was a cheap and easy upgrade. I like modern conveniences, but I don’t like to spend the money on things I can make myself.

 

I'm from another school and prefer the keep it simple approach. I don't like adding things that possibly can create issues down the road. To me, I don't have an issue with using the key to unlock the doors and trunk. I would rather spend money on other things.

 

I smoothed the body on my Cutlass - no lock holes anywhere - so power locks are pretty important.

I used an AutoLoc kit with their actuators for the doors. The door mechanisms are very straight forward, just make certain to mount them inline with the lock rod and mount securely.
I used an OE power trunk latch with the normal button in the glove box, then ran the trigger wire from the AutoLoc box to a relay to the latch as well. Only thing to watch is the solenoid on the latch pulls a ton of current and is NOT meant to be engaged for any length of time - but the autoloc box will engage it as long as you're holding the button. So just tap it - don't hold it down. The general use power latches are readily available. The expensive bit is getting the precisely correct glove box button, which may or may not matter to you.

I also put in power windows, and wired the 4th button (""alarm"") to trigger both windows to roll down.

There are manual bypasses using bike brake cables hidden on the car so I can unlock a door if the battery is dead and open the trunk from the inside.

Obviously you have to add wiring boots if you don't have any power in the doors right now. That can be its own adventure, depending on what route you want to take. I browsed the junkyard and grabbed some boots that were large enough for what I wanted and were still in good shape.

 

Oh, that ebay link is an autoloc kit. They're actually pretty decent. The bullet connectors on the actuators are trash - replace them with real connectors. The door is a wet area, so I put weatherpacks on them. The documentation is also extremely thin, but it's all pretty obvious once you get into it. I found the graphic on the box more useful than the actual documentation, so I saved the box!!

The remotes are just OK. Sometimes the buttons stick, range can be pretty bad. I extended the antenna and attached it to the edge of the rear window. My receiver is mounted in the trunk. That was my biggest gripe with the aftermarket stuff - you have to use their fobs, most of them are really terrible. But if you go with an OE, you have the same problem - have to find OE fobs and figure out the special ritual to program the receiver.

 

The kit I linked to above went on sale today for $64 so I pulled the trigger. I like the suggestion of upgrading the connectors so I will be doing that. I have a bunch of Packard 56 terminals and a decent crimper so I may do that, but I will definitely price the weatherpack terminals and connectors. For now I am going to hold off on the trunk kit unless I can find an OEM one. Since the kit is compatible I can always add that later. It will probably be several weeks before I get a chance to install it but when I do I will update this thread.

 

WeatherPack style connectors are easy to find on Amazon and probably ebay too. They recommend specific crimpers for them to hold the little boots but they are inexpensive too. The crimpers are Molex style for the wire crimp and look pretty much round for the boots. I just ordered them for some of the work I'm doing under my hood.

When you install the locks, pay close attention to how the factory lock rods are bent to interface between the handle and the lock mechanism. Duplicate the bend-type connections for the aftermarket locks because the set screw connectors WILL come loose eventually. Ask me how I know... I never tried to find the cloth covers for the rods, but if you bend the rods right, they will fit tight, work correctly and not rattle.

 

So these were supposed to show up Monday, that’s why I thought it would be a while before I got to them. Well the were delivered Friday so I actually had a chance to put them in this weekend.

I installed the new rod on the solenoid and the clip that holds the rod to the factory rod so I could get an idea of where I could position the solenoid below the factory lock rods. I had some electrical junction box cover plates that I used for the mounting brackets. I used one of the slotted corners for the top mount and drilled a hole for the lower mount. There was an indentation on the door the held the motor in the ideal position and my bracket caused no interference so I drilled holes in the door and marked the bracket so I could drill and tap it. After I mounted the solenoid I ran the window up and down to make sure there was no interference, it was close but I had about a quarter inch clearance at the closest point. Then I ran the harness. I used some non-sticky vinyl friction harness tape and wrapped the wires. I put the module for the locks and the one for the key fob both behind the drivers side kick panel near the relay for the power windows. There are two wires to connect the two modules together and then they both get grounded to the chassis and constant 12vdc. I did orders the weatherpack connectors so I will swap those out later. All in all it only took a few hours to install( I already had the door panels off) and I already had the junction box covers and hardware. The key fob module can also be used to control an ignition kill switch relay, power trunk release relay, parking lights, power windows or just about anything else you wanted to wire it to.

 

Yup, pretty much where I hung mine.
A recommendation, check the range on your remote. You can mount the receiver anywhere and run the signal wires to the lock module. Might want to experiment with the antenna lead to make sure it's usable. I need to be within 5' of the car and my antenna is extended and attached to the rear window! Not sure how well it'll work being inside the kick/cowl.

 

I thought about that so before I mounted it I set it up to check range. I ran the antenna wire up near the bottom of the A-pillar. With my car in the garage I can be a at least 30 feet away, inside my house with the door closed and it still works. Maybe the newer kits have a better key fob? One thing to mention, the instructions that came with the kit were incorrect. When I first hooked it up the buttons were reversed. Unlock would lock the doors. So i checked autoloc’s website. The instructions there showed the two wires that connect the modules reversed from my instructions. I switched the wires and now they work like the should.