Any ideas?
#2
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#4
Sounds like a loose connection at the ignition switch near the bottom of the steering column. The column and therefore the wiring connected to it is flexing when you pull down on the steering wheel. The ignition switch is (or should be) mounted on the top side of the column near the pedals. Your turn signal connector is also down there. It's the long thin connector though I doubt that it is or would cause this kind of problem.
The problem could be in the key switch itself. You should not be able to pull your key out while it is turned to the run (or acc for that matter) position but they get loose over time. Your key could also be loose because the key itself is simply worn down.
Due to the fact that it happens when you pull on the wheel, my money is on a loose connection at the ignition switch down by the pedals.
Crawl down there and make sure eveything is plugged in good. And if your key is really worn, get a new one made from the best key you have.
The problem could be in the key switch itself. You should not be able to pull your key out while it is turned to the run (or acc for that matter) position but they get loose over time. Your key could also be loose because the key itself is simply worn down.
Due to the fact that it happens when you pull on the wheel, my money is on a loose connection at the ignition switch down by the pedals.
Crawl down there and make sure eveything is plugged in good. And if your key is really worn, get a new one made from the best key you have.
#5
I think your proboably right. I'll drop the column down and poke around. The car does have the option where you can pull out the key while it's running to open the trunk or pick something out of you ear. The odd thing is that I only seem to lose the power to the coil and nothing else. I'll post the findings.
Thanks
Thanks
#8
I'm just pulling your leg. Sorry about the confusion. The ignition is worn out. allthough I do like the option.
Rob you were getting warm!!
My tach has a steel braided wire attached to the back of it and it was grounding out on the 12v wire next to it.
Rob, I pulled apart the tach and the ring up front is already blue. I was able to calibrate it at least.
Rob you were getting warm!!
My tach has a steel braided wire attached to the back of it and it was grounding out on the 12v wire next to it.
Rob, I pulled apart the tach and the ring up front is already blue. I was able to calibrate it at least.
#9
that really is the way the keys were in the late 50s / early 60s
I got in plenty of trouble!
http://www.stationwagonforums.com/fo...ead.php?t=8756
I got in plenty of trouble!
http://www.stationwagonforums.com/fo...ead.php?t=8756
#10
Adding 168 bulds can brighten it up a little bit more, too.
Glad you found the problem! Can you snap a picture of the braded wire? Does it get bundled with other wires or does it stay by itself?
#12
If a factory tach, then the ring should be blue. The inside of the tach case should be the same color, as the speedo was like that, too.
Adding 168 bulds can brighten it up a little bit more, too.
Glad you found the problem! Can you snap a picture of the braded wire? Does it get bundled with other wires or does it stay by itself?
Adding 168 bulds can brighten it up a little bit more, too.
Glad you found the problem! Can you snap a picture of the braded wire? Does it get bundled with other wires or does it stay by itself?
BTW I had one bulb burned out on my tach, it's at least 50% brighter now.
Thanks again for the help.
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January 4th, 2009 06:02 PM