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I recently added two electric fans to my 1967 Toronado and I need to upgrade the alternator. Do I have to have one that still uses and external voltage regulator, or can I use one with an internal regulator? (one wire to battery / self-exciting / no external regulator).
If I use the one wire alternator, will my amperage guage (not a light) still operate?
It depends on how much effort you want to put into the change. Internally regulated alternators will require some wiring changes, in addition to running a larger feed wire to charge the battery. Wiring changes that are required will be based on the alternator you choose.
If you go to an internally regulated alternator, you will need an adapter for the plug and you need to jumper the wires that went to the old regulator. They sell a conversion kit.
I installed a 105 amp CS alternator on my 69 probably 15 years ago. I can’t find the article, but Marlan Davis wrote a article for Hot Rod magazine called Charging Ahead, the car used in the conversion was his 69 Cutlass. He details all the different part numbers and wiring options.
Why are people so enamored with the one wire alternators? Use a stock three wire with internal regulator. Your car is already wired for it and the three wire will charge at idle. The 105 amp CS130 from a 1989-1990 Custom Cruiser with the Olds 307 bolts directly to your current brackets, and even has the correct V-belt pulley. This has been discussed here a lot. Your ammeter will burn out if you try to push 105 amps through a 60 amp gauge. Convert to a voltmeter, it's safer.
I agree, the one wire alternator is overhyped. I was flipping thru a Ron Francis electrical catalog, he offers a module that triggers a warning lamp if the voltage drops below a certain point. If a 3 wire alternator is so difficult to install (especially considering the needed wiring is already under the hood!) how is installing a 1 wire alternator (and removing the extra factory wiring) then installing a module with 3 more wires, to accomplish what GM already did any easier or better?!
What happens if your on a trip, 100 miles northeast of nowhere, and your aftermarket 1 wire alternator fails? The common 3 wire GM alternator is available at just about any parts store.
I was flipping thru a Ron Francis electrical catalog, he offers a module that triggers a warning lamp if the voltage drops below a certain point.
Yeah, I had a good laugh when that item first came out a few years ago. Let's see if I have this right. You're supposed to pay a premium for a one-wire alternator, disabling the GEN light function in the process, and THEN pay an additional $25 (that's what it cost then) for a module that replaces the three wire function that was already there from the factory. How stupid are people?
Why are people so enamored with the one wire alternators? Use a stock three wire with internal regulator. Your car is already wired for it and the three wire will charge at idle. The 105 amp CS130 from a 1989-1990 Custom Cruiser with the Olds 307 bolts directly to your current brackets, and even has the correct V-belt pulley. This has been discussed here a lot. Your ammeter will burn out if you try to push 105 amps through a 60 amp gauge. Convert to a voltmeter, it's safer.
Hey Joe, (I always think of Jimmy Hendrix when I say that) I am nearing the part of my build where I need to install my under-hood wiring and wondering which plug would be best for a 67 Cutlass when converting to the CS130? Since I don't have the correct plug, I need to buy one. There are several options available having one, two, or four wires. Which would be the easiest, cleanest, best to use?
The CS130 actually is configured from the factory for multiple installation options - it has far more flexibility than the 12SI family. There are four wires in the alternator plug, P, L, F, and S.
The "P" terminal is a stator terminal that is only used in computer-controlled applications such as where the automaker wants to turn off the alternator if not needed to save a few drops of gasoline on the CAFE mileage test. Ignore that terminal. This is the white wire in the four wire connector photo.
The "S" terminal is the SENSE terminal that has the same function as the #2 terminal on the 12SI. This terminal wants to be connected to the threaded post on the horn relay to sense system voltage for controlling the regulator. This is the heavy red wire in the connector photo.
The "L" terminal is the LIGHT and serves the same function as the #1 terminal on the 12SI. It should be wired to the brown wire that operates the GEN light. If connected, this terminal will also turn on the regulator as it sees the voltage drop through the GEN light. Unlike the 12SI, this is not the only way to turn on the regulator in a CS130. This should be the wire next to the white wire.
The "F" terminal is the FIELD terminal and also serves the same function as the #1 terminal on the 12SI. Unlike that older alternator, the F terminal on the CS130 has a resistor built into it that replicates the resistance in the GEN bulb filament. The F terminal is designed for cars that use a voltmeter instead of a GEN light and is simply connected to a switched 12V source. This also will turn on the regulator. This should be the wire next to the red wire.
The bottom line is that you want to connect the SENSE wire and either the LIGHT or FIELD wire, depending on if you have a GEN light or a voltmeter.
And also be sure to run a ground strap from the rear frame of the CS130 to the block, as the internal electronics are sensitive to resistance in the ground path.
Also note that the first two connectors you posted are NOT CS130 connectors. Only the four wire connector photo is correct.
Thanks for the complete info Joe. I didn't realize those plugs were different. I did an Amazon search for CS130 and they showed up so I just figured they were all for the same alternator but different applications.
Thanks for the complete info Joe. I didn't realize those plugs were different. I did an Amazon search for CS130 and they showed up so I just figured they were all for the same alternator but different applications.
Never assume that an on-line catalog or search engine is correct. In fact, you'll be better off if you assume it's INCORRECT until proven otherwise, especially when searching for Oldsmobile parts.
For those interested in making this upgrade, I bought the alternator and the plug from Amazon. Links below. The alternator on my 67 Cutlass was a bolt-in replacement. Following Joe's instructions, I connected the red alternator wire to the white wire of the vehicle harness and the brown alternator wire to the blue harness wire. I then made jumpers to connect the terminals of the regulator wiring. White to red and blue to black. I also installed a larger charging lead to handle the higher current. The "GEN" light comes on as it should when I turn the ign key on and then it goes out after starting the engine and the alternator begins charging. Battery voltage increases from 12.5 to 14.5 while charging. This also solved the run-on I was experiencing with the old style charging system. For less than $70 it is a great upgrade!
