alt. for 425 toro
.10si,12si ,cs144 --just numbers/figures to me .
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,802
From: Northern VA
Are you looking for a stock replacement, or an upgrade? A stock replacement would be an externally regulated unit. Any of the ones you've listed are internally regulated, which requires rewiring to bypass your current external regulator.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 510
Mike
Do you have a core that could be rebuilt down there? If you do that might be the simplest way to go. I have a number of core alternators and I'm sure there's others on this site who do as well if you need a core. Or if you want to just purchase one already rebuilt I just checked rockauto.com and they list two brands for a 1967 Toronado that are both around $60-70 without a core. I don't know what shipping would run, but hopefully that wouldn't add too much more to the price. John
Do you have a core that could be rebuilt down there? If you do that might be the simplest way to go. I have a number of core alternators and I'm sure there's others on this site who do as well if you need a core. Or if you want to just purchase one already rebuilt I just checked rockauto.com and they list two brands for a 1967 Toronado that are both around $60-70 without a core. I don't know what shipping would run, but hopefully that wouldn't add too much more to the price. John
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 537
From: new zealand
I should have mentioned the 425 is going into my 86 cad.brougham.I am not after any specific stock / non stock .Jst an alternator which fits and has 100a or so capacity .The 307 currently in situ . has an internal regulator
tx mike
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 537
From: new zealand
Mike
Do you have a core that could be rebuilt down there? If you do that might be the simplest way to go. I have a number of core alternators and I'm sure there's others on this site who do as well if you need a core. Or if you want to just purchase one already rebuilt I just checked rockauto.com and they list two brands for a 1967 Toronado that are both around $60-70 without a core. I don't know what shipping would run, but hopefully that wouldn't add too much more to the price. John
Do you have a core that could be rebuilt down there? If you do that might be the simplest way to go. I have a number of core alternators and I'm sure there's others on this site who do as well if you need a core. Or if you want to just purchase one already rebuilt I just checked rockauto.com and they list two brands for a 1967 Toronado that are both around $60-70 without a core. I don't know what shipping would run, but hopefully that wouldn't add too much more to the price. John
Think I should be going for an internal reg. -maybe I could steal the 307 alternator ??That I am lead to believe is 94A
Any core around here would relate to the centre of an apple
mike
Last edited by geckonz08; Nov 12, 2010 at 04:52 PM. Reason: incorrect info
Connoisseur d'Junque
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Oh. If you've already got a working alternator with an appropriate power rating that you're willing to use, just bolt it on.
Variations are pulley size / offset / number of sheaves,
and orientation of connections to mounting holes.
If it's got a different pulley, you can swap for the right one.
If the connections (located on the back half) aren't where you want them when it's mounted (with mounting holes located on the front half) you can remove the four small, long case screws, rotate the halves with respect to one-another to where you want them, and reinstall the screws.
- Eric
Variations are pulley size / offset / number of sheaves,
and orientation of connections to mounting holes.
If it's got a different pulley, you can swap for the right one.
If the connections (located on the back half) aren't where you want them when it's mounted (with mounting holes located on the front half) you can remove the four small, long case screws, rotate the halves with respect to one-another to where you want them, and reinstall the screws.
- Eric
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 537
From: new zealand
Oh. If you've already got a working alternator with an appropriate power rating that you're willing to use, just bolt it on.
Variations are pulley size / offset / number of sheaves,
and orientation of connections to mounting holes.
If it's got a different pulley, you can swap for the right one.
If the connections (located on the back half) aren't where you want them when it's mounted (with mounting holes located on the front half) you can remove the four small, long case screws, rotate the halves with respect to one-another to where you want them, and reinstall the screws.
- Eric
Variations are pulley size / offset / number of sheaves,
and orientation of connections to mounting holes.
If it's got a different pulley, you can swap for the right one.
If the connections (located on the back half) aren't where you want them when it's mounted (with mounting holes located on the front half) you can remove the four small, long case screws, rotate the halves with respect to one-another to where you want them, and reinstall the screws.
- Eric
mike
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,802
From: Northern VA
Your Caddy should use the metal engine-side brackets and the rubber clamshell motor mounts bolted to the frame. The metal brackets bolt directly to the 425. Of course you'll need W/Z exhaust manifolds. Don't waste your time with the 307 manifolds.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 537
From: new zealand
X2. The stock alternator in that car is a 10SI already. In fact, you will want to use the PS pump brackets from the 307 anyway. The 307 alternator bracket bolts to the BBO with just the addition of a spacer between the alternator bracket and the PS pump bracket. You can even use the 307 A/C bracket if you weld two tabs onto the bottom of the bracket so it reaches the two bottom holes on the block.
Your Caddy should use the metal engine-side brackets and the rubber clamshell motor mounts bolted to the frame. The metal brackets bolt directly to the 425. Of course you'll need W/Z exhaust manifolds. Don't waste your time with the 307 manifolds.
Your Caddy should use the metal engine-side brackets and the rubber clamshell motor mounts bolted to the frame. The metal brackets bolt directly to the 425. Of course you'll need W/Z exhaust manifolds. Don't waste your time with the 307 manifolds.
You are almost a stand alone oldsbible--" The oldstestament " good name for your book ?
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