My delta is having an issue where the wipers stop working when I use the windshield washer pump sometimes. I replaced the pump and wiper motor not too long ago. Any ideas on the issue? Maybe it’s the wiper switch?

 

Obtain the correct wire diagram/schematic.
Check the connectors and wires for corrosion and opens to the motor and the pump actuator. Verify 12VDC is present at both when the demand is there from the switch.
Verify the ground(s) is good. If those check out ok start working your way back to the switch. Before you remove the switch verify the correct DCV is coming in and out of it. Then check it for high resistance. Probably wouldn't hurt to clean the switch internally & externally.

Still intermittent? it's likely internal on the motor or pump.
Did you keep the OEM pump? There are a couple of good vendors out there that will rebuild it correctly.

 

Does this car have "mist" position? And if so did you get the wiper motor specific to that?

 

I ended up getting a different wiper motor again as the first motor I got was damaged, no difference. Still works when it wants to. And yes i did get an oem to spec wiper motor that has the mist position. It just doesn’t work when you turn it on sometimes. And it getting a constant power from the center wire (yellow) and sometimes the light blue wire. I believe it’s that light blue wire. Probably the switch.

 

The wiper motor and washer have a constant 12v and the ground side of the circuits are supplied through the wiper switch. Make sure the switch is grounded and functioning correctly.

 

That would make sense to why it’s not working right. I’ve been having plenty of ground issues with the car lately with the turn signals and other issues. I’ll check the ground out ASAP. I always thought it would be powered by a positive source.

 

There was one point in time (and unfortunately it remains) electrical circuits were taught a the Conventional Theory of electricity (“Power” moves from the (+) Cathode terminal of the battery to the (-) Anode terminal of the battery. That theory was proven incorrect quite some time ago by a chap of the name Thompson, who demonstrated electron flow is from the (-) Anode terminal of the battery to the (+) Cathode terminal of the battery. Equations demonstrating voltage & amperage etc. will still be correct in terms of measuring the properties of electricity - in either direction. However, the plain simple unequivocal fact is this: electrons (which provide the ability to do work) flow in one direction ONLY. Electrons, which are negatively charged ions (Anions) flow in one direction from the Anode (negative terminal of a battery) to the Cathode (positive terminal of a battery). Electrical circuits are still most often designed based upon Conventional theory - which is all fine & well when designing the considerations of a circuit. However, make no mistake about it, electron flow within a DC battery provides direct current (DC) to a circuit from the negative terminal through a bridge (wire or wires in your car) to the positive battery terminal (referred to as electron flow). Albeit, the greatest impedance to electron flow is on the negative terminal of the battery (ground). “Power” is really NOT generated on the positive terminal (antiquated Conventional theory). It’s fine to use terms such as the red “Power” wire, makes no difference in terms of the “circuit”. Electron “flow” is the most important factor. HTH

 

I had a friend that when you asked what time it was, he'd tell you how the watch was invented...

 

I know, I know.....

 

My most recent update about the situation is that the wiper motor works if you shake/pull on it while wits on the fire wall. My tests with it being outside the firewall had the motor working great. I’ve already ruled out the switch and motor, with the wiper arm disconnected it works fine. I feel like it has something to do with it being under load

 

As a test tun a temporary ground to the body of the motor, not a rubber insulated mounting bolt. See what happens.

 

Already tried that, I have 2 separate body grounds for it, no dice

 

It may be time to perform a voltage drop test of the power and ground circuits with the circuit under load.

 

Since the motor works fine off the car and you think it might be load related, try operating the wiper transmission linkage with the motor arm disconnected. Could be worn and binding after nearly 50 years.

There are several lube points on the linkage. Try a little lightweight oil or white grease on those. If you find any excessively worn parts, time to call BigDooly and see if he has any 70s big car wiper linkage. 71-76 88 and 98 should be the same.

 

not sure if it’s power related anymore.

 

I think you’re right…. I’ll give it a shot when I have the chance

 

Figured out that there’s a knuckle from the wiper motor arm that is binding against the arm of the wiper motor causing it to not move unless you assist the motor. Would I be able to just replace the wiper motor arm or do I have to replace the whole assembly?