so i have a 72 olds that ran when parked, and after replacing a few wires i really didn't touch anything, and now nothing happens when i go to start it, but i do have glove box light, dome light, and under dash light when i open the door at all times. i did just acquire a new harness that needs installed, but would like to get running before a tackle that job. i have low beams that work, and HEI distributor has been installed from a newer model. what are some of the places to look for, ign switch? nuetral safety switch? if so where is it at..and ive heard horn relay will also cause no power. some of my ground straps are very iffy, and i replaced one, would this cause te problem i am having?

 

I did have a neutral safety switch out of alignment once and that kept it from cranking. Some of the consoles had it on the floor shifter. The rest would have it on the steering column down near the floorboard near the brake and accelerator pedals. It's on the top of the column and will have wires with I think two plugs going to it. If it slipped out of adjustment I would expect it to be loose. If it's tight you may go back to looking at the horn relay or starter to see if all the wires are good and making good contact. Since it ran when you parked it I would be more suspicious that you've got a bad contact somewhere between the battery and the starter. John

 

Try the headlights.

When you put the ignition switch in the start position, do they go dark? If so, when you release the switch, do they light up instantly, slowly, or not at all?

Instantly = Problem is in the starter/solenoid.
Slowly = Low charge in the battery.
Not at all = loose/dirty connection at the battery.

If they are not affected, suspect a low battery.

Norm

 

My first thought would the the neutral safety switch. It is located at the base of the steering column. If it were the horn relay issue then you wouldn't have any power at all.
When you turn the key do the idiot lights come on?

 

did it crank before you worked on it? if so, go over every thing you touched. I have done this a few times and it was usually a ground wire I forgot to hook up or something simple.

 

the battery was bought new when i got the car about a year and a half ago, and it has been used about twice, so the first thing i did was made sure it wasn't dead, found out it is at about 75 percent charge, also new battery cables, and connections at the battery post are good. ill have to do the ignition switch/headlight test when i have a second hand to help me, is there any other way to test the ign switch? and 442 when you say idiot lights are you referring to dash lights or what? i took the gauges out to rebuild them, and i should be putting those back in today.

 

If you say your battery is at 75% that more then likely will be your culprit. What size is the motor. you can also manually jump your starter as well.
________
Peachy

 

A 75% battery will start anything just fine.
When you turn the key on the GEN and HOT lights should come on before you start the car. If you have the gauges there will just be a GEN light.

 

It wont if his starter/solenoid is week or dieing.
________
Marijuana Dispensaries

 

Dude you're not getting it. Nothing is happening...like the starter isn't trying to engage at all. No click, no nothing.

At least that's what I take from it.

If I'm wrong please tell us.

 

Sorry that makes sense. Possibly knicked some wires when he was removing the gauges
________
Cams sexy

 

hit the nail on the head 442. since i have HEI instead of points, my wiring diagram doesn't show how the coil is hooked up, so that is throwing me off. i think my issue is the bad wire from the bat terminal of the cap/coil, it was in pretty bad shape does this make sense and cause a no crank issue? i double triple checked the starter connections. to make sure i don't have it hooked up wrong entirely, the batter cable and horn relay junction block cable go to the same terminal on the starter correct?

 

This might help......


scan0002-1.jpg

 

Umm.......Nothing comes from the horn relay to the starter. The positive battery cable goes to the large post, the yellow comes from the R terminal and the purple goes to the S terminal on the solenoid.

What you need to do is bypass the yellow wire because it is a resistor wire and the HEI won't run right on the lower voltage. You can run a wire from an accessory terminal in the fuse box for the BAT terminal and you should be good to go.

As far as any of that not letting the car do anything when you turn the key....it should have no bearing on that. Now if you don't have the purple wire on the S terminal on the starter then that would definitely cause the problem.

 

if i choose to run the my 12 volt wire through the fuse box what would be the correct amp fuse? whats bad about running no fuse?