I kinda posted a multiple post in transmission regarding shifter bushings and back up lights and not getting any reply’s so splitting up and putting back up lights in electrical - I fixed the mechanism so it triggers the switch in reverse - tested the back up lights with a test light and they do have power all the way to the contact when in reverse - bulbs are good - but will not illuminate - any ideas? One side was working before I started monkeying with it trying to fix the one that don’t work - now both don’t work ...that’s how I know both bulbs are good because I tested them both on the working side

 

they get theyre ground thru the bumper if the socket to housing connection is good sometimes fiddiling with the 2 reverse light housing to bumper screws gets them working...

 

I did pull and sand the screws and reattach - but I’ll try again with the power on and see if I can detect any action of them lighting up while messing - thanks for the reply!

 

If you can light a test light at the lamp contacts then you have a ground issue or the contacts are not reaching the bulb contacts.

 

not sure I understand this ... so if the test light illuminated by touching the bulb contact pad with the test light attached to a ground - the sockets ground is bad? And contacts are not reaching bulb contact? ... it’s the single contact in the center type socket - if it’s not reaching what can I do (the passenger side back up light was working until i started fiddling with it trying to figure out the driverside which never worked)

 

This is a possible scenario, I'm not 100% familiar with the socket on your year car, but some are spring loaded and corrode and bind up not allowing a good connection to the bulb. Another is if your test light is lighting with a remote connected ground then your not getting a ground at the socket through the light housing.

 

ahh! I understand - thank you - I will try a jumper ground to the housing and see if that works - if so I’ll clean it up good - if not I’ll look into the contact spring - thank you

 

I had that issue with my '72 Cutlass back up lights - ended up having to replace the fixtures because the spring-loaded contacts stopped making solid contact (for whatever reason the springs must have gotten weak and wouldn't hold contact against the bulb).

In my case both were repop assemblies so your results may vary

 

thanks for the info

 

Was able to get one light working temporarily by jumping a wire from the outside of the cylinder the bulb goes into to the frame - when I touched the wire to the frame it sparked - is that normal? Being in proximity to the fuel tank alarmed me - will clean up eye holes from housing to frame and put new screws in it to see if that fixes it

 

the socket to housing has to make a connection too, ive found several where that connection was not good

if the spring loaded part is crusty spraying w wd40 can help loosen it back up

check continuity from the socket to the housing OK

check housing to bumper OK

check bumper to brackets OK

check brackets to frame

 

thanks - will do - going to read up on how to check continuity - I have a test light and a voltmeter so should be able to figure it out

 

you can set your voltmeter to ohms and see if there is a connection, or some VMs have a fuse check feature that beeps if there is a connection.

touch the inside of the lamp socket to the outside of the light housing if it shows a connection just keep moving down the line.

where you find an open (no connection) start taking stuff apart and cleaning the mating surfaces. and hardware

if the fault is at the socket to housing you may have to get creative

 

The problem with doing a continuity test is that the slightest connection will show continuity, but with a load that connection opens up. Also if your checking through a circuit, coils, other light bulbs, etc will back feed through your tester.