Hello, I have been reading the site for years but just recently started working on my Cutlass again (laid off due to COVID) 😂. My car has been sitting for a few years since it would not start. I put a new starter/solenoid along with a new neutral safety switch this week. When I turn the ignition key to the on position everything works (lights, radio, fan, interior lights, dash lights) but nothing happens with the starter. Not even the normal clicking noise. I also have a new ignition (not installed) switch but wanted to know if I may be overlooking something before I try to figure out how to replace the ignition switch. I have a non tilt steering wheel with neutral safety switch on the column but have a floor consol shifter. I tried to start the car in all positions and still nothing. I checked the fuses in the fuse panel but have not yet tried to jump the starter or checked to see if there is power at the starter on the purple switch wire. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I’ll post picks once I get it out of the garage.

 

I guess we'll wait to see if you have power on the purple wires at the NSS with the key in the start position and the trans in park.

 

Is the backdrive linkage from the trans to the steering column in place and properly adjusted? If not, it won't actuate the NSS. And stop buying parts you don't need until you do some troubleshooting first, unless you enjoy spending money unnecessarily.

The start circuit runs from the battery to the ignition switch to the NSS to the starter. There aren't a lot of places to check. Get a test light or voltmeter and figure out where the power stops.

 

As has been suggested:

The simplest method to troubleshoot this issue is a test light, IMO.

 

As suggested get a test light, look at the ones with a voltmeter built-in. OTC is around $30. On a car of this vintage it will be a very useful tool.

Also look for a wiring diagram for your car. The advantages to testing vs throwing parts are that you gain an understanding of the car, it saves time and the car keeps more of its original high quality parts.

Good luck!!!

 

You should own the 1971 CSM for your vehicle. Here's a link to your wiring diagram which is included in the CSM.

1971 Original GM Oldsmobile CSM Wiring Diagram A Body "V-8"

 

Thanks for all of the help. I tested the electrical wires in the system and had power through out. I then jumped the t we o purple wires that are connected to the neutral safety switch and that worked. So that isolated the problem to the neutral safety switch. After thinking about how the neutral safety switch works I realized that I did not check the setting on the new switch that I installed before I put it back on the steering column. I took it back off and looked at it and found that it was in the neutral position rather than park. I switched it to park and reinstalled it and that did the trick. My troubleshooting skills are a bit rusty after not working on the car for quite a few years so I really appreciate everyone’s help in getting my problem fixed.

 

Good to hear, thanks for closing out the loop.

working on 50 year old cars your troubleshooting skills will get right back up to speed. Plus theres lots of help here.

 

Well that was easy.

 

Here are a few pictures that I said I would post. I finally was able to get the car started after 10 years. After the neutral safety switch fix I found that my fuel pump was bad. After replacing the fuel pump it started right up. Now I have an issue with white smoke coming out of the exhaust. After turning the car off I noticed antifreeze leaking from the bottom of the heater core housing. Any advice on next steps?

 

The AC Evaporator Core on my 1971 CS 350 was bad when I purchased the car three years ago. Antifreeze leaking from "under" the car via the drain hole (which has a rubber grommet). The AC was also faulty - would not hold a charge and no cold air. I replaced my Evaporator Core which resolved the issue. Generally speaking I believe if the heater core is faulty, you'll have fluid leaking onto the passenger floorboard. Take a good look up from underneath the car and see if the fluid is leaking from that rubber grommet - sometimes the rubber grommet is lost and you can only see the hole itself, but in any case if it's the Evaporator Core you'll see antifreeze leaking from that hole. Are you having any issues with either the AC or the heater?

 

The antifreeze leak fix will most likely be a hose or the heater core. I would not worry about the white smoke until you've driven it for a little while.

 

This is what the Evaporator Core box drain grommet looks like...

 

Yes the antifreeze is leaking from the plug in the bottom. The A/C stopped working right before the last time I drove it around 10 years ago.

 

I'm guessing you meant the heater core. There is no antifreeze in the evaporator core, only Freon.

 

I don’t follow how it would leak anti- freeze if the evap core was bad. There is no anti- freeze in the a/c system. The refrigerant leaks out in a gas form so at best you might have a little a/c oil leak out.

 

That antifreeze puddle on the floor is not a little a/c oil leak.

 

You can bypass the heater core and replace it at your conveinience.

 

It seems that I either have leaky heater core hoses or a leaky heater core. I have never taken the housing off before. Is it relatively easy to take it off and check for hose leaks? If it’s a bad heater core has anyone ever temporarily bypassed the heater core with an elbow connecting the input to the output so the car can still be driven without heat until the heater core replacement can be done?

 

Thanks that’s what I was thinking too.

 

I found a bypass hose on EBay. Am I correct in thinking that I can temporarily bypass the heater core by attaching this bypass to the two hoses entering my firewall?

 

Oh yeah. This will be the second time in so many (2) years I've bungled this story in writing it up.

I had antifreeze leaking from the evaporator core/heater box - located inside the engine compartment - that big box which enclosed both the heater core and evaporator core. The antifreeze was leaking from the bottom of the evaporator core/heater box. But, I also had a faulty AC evaporator core. I had antifreeze leaking from the drain plug of the evaporator/heater enclosure box in the engine compartment mounted against the firewall. There was no antifreeze leaking onto the inside of the car anywhere. I pulled the evaporator/heater core enclosure box and antifreeze was leaking into the evaporator/heater core enclosure box and the antifreeze was flowing to the bottom of the evaporator/heater core enclosure box. As stated, I was having issues with the AC not holding a charge and not producing cold air. There was however an issue with the AC evaporator core, which was the issue with the AC system (although, I did replace the AC compressor at the same time since I had just bought the car and since I was replacing the evaporator core I thought I'd replace the AC compressor, as well). Then, I noticed an issue with the heater core valve AFTER I replaced the AC evaporator core. After I replaced the AC evaporator core and put the system back together it was then I noticed an issue with the heater valve - the AC system was now working flawlessly. You're correct, the AC evaporator core only contains freon coolant. So, then to be honest, when I noticed an issue with the heater valve - I sought to correct the heater valve issue and I did this in the following day or two. I never really waited to detect any additional issue with the heater or AC system other than that heater valve wasn't working correctly. If I could only recall exactly how I came to find out that heater valve wasn't working correctly I might better provide some clue as to why antifreeze was leaking out the bottom of that evaporator/heater core box but I can't recall. Without any question of doubt however, it was antifreeze leaking. I never replaced the actual heater core itself - only the evaporator core and the heater valve. I can't recall replacing a hose from the heater valve.

And, honestly, I was damn green behind the ears on figuring out which heater valve I needed to replace on this car since there were/are two types of heater valves. I know I was quite preoccupied with trying to understand which heater valve I needed for this car. Sorry if this was confusing.

 

Yeah, you're correct Eric. And, it sure looks like the type of leak I had on my car after I bought it. When I got it on jack stands and had a good look, the antifreeze was coming out of that rubber drain plug. Since my AC was bad, I simply initially assumed it was a bad evaporator core. So, replaced the evaporator core but I also replaced the AC dryer and the AC compressor since the car was new to me and I was all about addressing the AC system. Add to the fact I don't own AC charging equipment, etc. Then, after it was bundled all back up, I noticed the heater valve wasn't working correctly, so I replaced the heater valve. I really can't recall and I don't believe I replaced any hoses for the heater core itself though just the heater valve.

 

Thanks. You have been helpful. I am much further along in my troubleshooting now than I was before your replies. I appreciate you taking the time. I will keep the valves in mind.

 

Assuming those are the correct hose sizes you can use that bypass. You can also just bypass heater core by running the smaller hose from the water pump to the back of the intake manifold and making the smaller diameter hose fit on the larger fitting. Accomplishes the sane thing, then when your ready replace the heater core ( if you passenger floor is wet too)

 

Thanks!