'71 98 heater blower motor died
#1
'71 98 heater blower motor died
Hello All,
The heater blower motor on my 71 98 was growling and screaming for 3 months ... this morning there was a LOUD destruction sound ... then slience ... then a bad sulfer like smell. So I found blower motors to order ... but I can't find a reference to where the blower motor is located or how to get to it.
Can anyone help?
Thanks so much.
The heater blower motor on my 71 98 was growling and screaming for 3 months ... this morning there was a LOUD destruction sound ... then slience ... then a bad sulfer like smell. So I found blower motors to order ... but I can't find a reference to where the blower motor is located or how to get to it.
Can anyone help?
Thanks so much.
#2
This is exactly why you should have the 1971 Oldsmobile Factory Service manual. It has all the diagrams and instructions you need to service this.
This is available all the time ebay, but you can also access it online at wildaboutcars.com. You need to join, but joining is free and well worth it as there is LOTS of information there.
This is available all the time ebay, but you can also access it online at wildaboutcars.com. You need to join, but joining is free and well worth it as there is LOTS of information there.
#4
- Remove right front wheel.
- Remove numerous 5/16x18, ½"-head screws holding plastic fender liner (and small plastic front fender liner extension) in place.
- Flex liner and rotate it out of the fender area.
- Unscrew numerous small screws holding fan motor to housing, disconnect ground and hot wires, remove.
Beware: The listed part number at the local auto parts store may or may not match - bring your old one to compare.
- Eric
#5
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The heater blower motor on my 71 98 was growling and screaming for 3 months ... this morning there was a LOUD destruction sound ... then slience ... then a bad sulfer like smell. So I found blower motors to order ... but I can't find a reference to where the blower motor is located or how to get to it.
To access the heater motor in your 98 you will need to remove the passenger side inner fender liner to access the blower motor and wiring. It's a bigger job with an AC car than with non because of the extra lines you need to move. When taking out the inner liner you really need the front wheel off, and the car jacked up as high as you can safely do that so the inner liner will come out easier. It may be difficult to remove some of the bolts because the clips that hold the liner in place may be rusted to the bolts. Pre treat as many as possible with a penetrating fluid like PB Blaster for a couple days.
BTW, that's a beautiful car, I really like the 4 door luxury sedans over the 2 door models. Color is fantastic too. Just needs a power polish??
#7
#8
THANK YOU ALL so very much ... it was 19 degrees this morning on the way to work and I was COLD!
I have the Fisher Body book ... odd that the power windows and such are there ... but not the heater blower. Regardless, will order the motor AND the manual today.
THANKS AGAIN !
Byron
I have the Fisher Body book ... odd that the power windows and such are there ... but not the heater blower. Regardless, will order the motor AND the manual today.
THANKS AGAIN !
Byron
#9
I would also recommend cleaning all of the electrical connectors, including the ground ring terminal that screws to the bod and the spot that it contacts under the sheet metal screw.
A tiny wire brush attachment in a Dremel moto-tool is ideal.
After the ground screw is tightened back up, you can spray a burst of black spray paint on the body to prevent further rust there - nobody will ever see it, so it doesn't have to be fancy.
- Eric
A tiny wire brush attachment in a Dremel moto-tool is ideal.
After the ground screw is tightened back up, you can spray a burst of black spray paint on the body to prevent further rust there - nobody will ever see it, so it doesn't have to be fancy.
- Eric
#10
One more question if I may ...
I see parts listing for motor just plain or "w/out a/c".
The pictures look the same ... and when I call the guys are "not sure on a car that old". Any idea if there is actually a difference?
Thanks again.
Byron
I see parts listing for motor just plain or "w/out a/c".
The pictures look the same ... and when I call the guys are "not sure on a car that old". Any idea if there is actually a difference?
Thanks again.
Byron
#11
In general, the motors are different with and without A/C in GM cars of the period, but I will confess I never ran into one of these without A/C, so I can't say from experience.
- Eric
- Eric
#13
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Ahh Eric! That's because most of the cars in the US had AC. Up here in Canada the vast majority of them didn't. So we're used to seeing them 'plain jane'. Also, just a note on the 98: AC wasn't a standard feature - it had to be ordered as an option. Lots of folks think that all the B/C cars came loaded with power features and AC as standard equipment which is not the case.
#14
Yellowstatue is correct.
The instructions on the fan I just bought from rockauto says to hook up the existing vent tube to the hole. It also says, insert the supplied plug into the hole if the vent tube is not present.
In my 68 cutlass application (no AC), I did not have a vent tube so I used the plug.
The new fan also has a much bigger motor than the fan I pulled off. No issues on fit though.
The instructions on the fan I just bought from rockauto says to hook up the existing vent tube to the hole. It also says, insert the supplied plug into the hole if the vent tube is not present.
In my 68 cutlass application (no AC), I did not have a vent tube so I used the plug.
The new fan also has a much bigger motor than the fan I pulled off. No issues on fit though.
#15
Going out on a limb here but I would think a/c vs non may have something to do with the winding of the motor. An a/c car's "max" setting kicks the fan into hyperdrive...maybe a non a/c motor can't make that kind of speed??
#16
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Good question John. But based on the units I've pulled in the past I haven't seen much difference. I always thought that extra ventilation was due to the position of the blend doors and coolant bypass. Just guessing though. We could take one out of your car and take a look though...
#18
Good question John. But based on the units I've pulled in the past I haven't seen much difference. I always thought that extra ventilation was due to the position of the blend doors and coolant bypass. Just guessing though. We could take one out of your car and take a look though...
#19
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#20
Probably for the same reason GM never put a drain plug on the transmission pan. They figured the blower motor would fail or need maintenance so rarely that it was cheaper to build cars without easy access so long as it could be accessed at all.
With the transmission fluid, changing it was required so infrequently (compared to, say, oil changes) that, again, the greater concern was cost instead of ease-of-access. It was less expensive to build the pans without the plug when you multiply the cost per pan by the number of pans that had to be built. And it's not like you can't change the transmission fluid at all.
Plus, without a drain plug, changing the fluid is a messy job, which would make do-it-yourselfers more likely to take the car to a shop than do it themselves. Some fraction of these people would take their car to a dealer instead of the corner garage, so, voila, a little more money for GM dealers.
Or perhaps none of this is true.
With the transmission fluid, changing it was required so infrequently (compared to, say, oil changes) that, again, the greater concern was cost instead of ease-of-access. It was less expensive to build the pans without the plug when you multiply the cost per pan by the number of pans that had to be built. And it's not like you can't change the transmission fluid at all.
Plus, without a drain plug, changing the fluid is a messy job, which would make do-it-yourselfers more likely to take the car to a shop than do it themselves. Some fraction of these people would take their car to a dealer instead of the corner garage, so, voila, a little more money for GM dealers.
Or perhaps none of this is true.
#21
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Actually GM did get smart with the transmission drain plug - at least with the Saturn SL line (now defunct). The trans not only had a drain plug but a spin on trans filter similar to an oil filter. Changing the fluid is actually easy on that car. May have applied to other car lines in the 90's and up? Oh yes, good thing to note, the occasion drip on the Saturn trans is from the case gasket, not the drain plug or filter.
#22
Hello All,
The A/C has been "beltless" since I acquired the car ... and it is supposed to be 16 degrees tomorrow and 13 on Friday ... so I am going with the "no A/C" version which seems to be the only one I can find that comes with the wheel.
It sounded an AWFUL lot like the wheel disintegrated as well ...
So, IF I fix the A/C this summer ... I will re-fix the fan motor ... for now ... I'm COLD.
Thanks so much for all of your help ... I will post results ... vacation day Thursday to repair.
Byron
The A/C has been "beltless" since I acquired the car ... and it is supposed to be 16 degrees tomorrow and 13 on Friday ... so I am going with the "no A/C" version which seems to be the only one I can find that comes with the wheel.
It sounded an AWFUL lot like the wheel disintegrated as well ...
So, IF I fix the A/C this summer ... I will re-fix the fan motor ... for now ... I'm COLD.
Thanks so much for all of your help ... I will post results ... vacation day Thursday to repair.
Byron
#23
I would not advise this.
The motor might not physically fit.
Most of the time squirrel cage noises are caused by leaves or debris inside of the fan housing not by a broken squirrel cage fan.
You may not need the fan at all.
I would strongly recommend taking the motor out first and bringing it with you to the auto parts store. That way you can be sure that the one you get is going to fit.
- Eric
PS sorry if the punctuation is a little bit weird I'm just learning to use the voice input software on my new cell phone while driving.
The motor might not physically fit.
Most of the time squirrel cage noises are caused by leaves or debris inside of the fan housing not by a broken squirrel cage fan.
You may not need the fan at all.
I would strongly recommend taking the motor out first and bringing it with you to the auto parts store. That way you can be sure that the one you get is going to fit.
- Eric
PS sorry if the punctuation is a little bit weird I'm just learning to use the voice input software on my new cell phone while driving.
#24
#25
Hello All,
Just wanted to say THANK YOU for all of your advice. Replaced the heater motor this morning ... 3 hours with one of them spent pulling a metal shard out of my finger ...
Couple things: I bought 3 motors (Advance let me return 2) in order to make sure I had the right one. There IS a difference for sure in A/C and non A/C ... the motor is larger, the fan is larger, and the cooling hole is there. The original fan was indeed still good and I used this fan on the A/C motor and saved 30 $. There are a LOT of bolts holding on the inner fender !!
It's good to be warm.
Thanks again.
Byron
Just wanted to say THANK YOU for all of your advice. Replaced the heater motor this morning ... 3 hours with one of them spent pulling a metal shard out of my finger ...
Couple things: I bought 3 motors (Advance let me return 2) in order to make sure I had the right one. There IS a difference for sure in A/C and non A/C ... the motor is larger, the fan is larger, and the cooling hole is there. The original fan was indeed still good and I used this fan on the A/C motor and saved 30 $. There are a LOT of bolts holding on the inner fender !!
It's good to be warm.
Thanks again.
Byron
#26
There ya go! Great work! And, yes, those cars can really throw heat when everything's working right.
And, yeah, there are an awful lot of screws holding that darned liner in, aren't there?
- Eric
And, yeah, there are an awful lot of screws holding that darned liner in, aren't there?
- Eric
#27
#28
Probably for the same reason GM never put a drain plug on the transmission pan. They figured the blower motor would fail or need maintenance so rarely that it was cheaper to build cars without easy access so long as it could be accessed at all.
With the transmission fluid, changing it was required so infrequently (compared to, say, oil changes) that, again, the greater concern was cost instead of ease-of-access. It was less expensive to build the pans without the plug when you multiply the cost per pan by the number of pans that had to be built. And it's not like you can't change the transmission fluid at all.
Plus, without a drain plug, changing the fluid is a messy job, which would make do-it-yourselfers more likely to take the car to a shop than do it themselves. Some fraction of these people would take their car to a dealer instead of the corner garage, so, voila, a little more money for GM dealers.
Or perhaps none of this is true.
With the transmission fluid, changing it was required so infrequently (compared to, say, oil changes) that, again, the greater concern was cost instead of ease-of-access. It was less expensive to build the pans without the plug when you multiply the cost per pan by the number of pans that had to be built. And it's not like you can't change the transmission fluid at all.
Plus, without a drain plug, changing the fluid is a messy job, which would make do-it-yourselfers more likely to take the car to a shop than do it themselves. Some fraction of these people would take their car to a dealer instead of the corner garage, so, voila, a little more money for GM dealers.
Or perhaps none of this is true.
#29
#30
Actually GM did get smart with the transmission drain plug - at least with the Saturn SL line (now defunct). The trans not only had a drain plug but a spin on trans filter similar to an oil filter. Changing the fluid is actually easy on that car. May have applied to other car lines in the 90's and up? Oh yes, good thing to note, the occasion drip on the Saturn trans is from the case gasket, not the drain plug or filter.
#31
#32
THANK YOU ALL so very much ... it was 19 degrees this morning on the way to work and I was COLD!
I have the Fisher Body book ... odd that the power windows and such are there ... but not the heater blower. Regardless, will order the motor AND the manual today.
THANKS AGAIN !
Byron
I have the Fisher Body book ... odd that the power windows and such are there ... but not the heater blower. Regardless, will order the motor AND the manual today.
THANKS AGAIN !
Byron
#33
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Just wanted to say THANK YOU for all of your advice. Replaced the heater motor this morning....There IS a difference for sure in A/C and non A/C ... the motor is larger, the fan is larger, and the cooling hole is there. .... There are a LOT of bolts holding on the inner fender !!
Yup, first hand. Wanna buy a used Saturn? Very well maintained - only used by my lil ol lady; very low miles. (the car, not the ol lady)
Majority of really useful stuff to a restorer is CSM and AM. FBM is ok, just have to know how to reference stuff in it.
#34
#35
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The car's in really good shape too though....... OH! Did I mention there's a down side to having a brew whilst typing?
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