I bought a used console when I switched from column shifter to floor shifter, on the console the lid was broken and it did not have the liner, the light wire harness was on there, I ran power to it and all the lights work, I'm getting ready to order a new console liner, my question is what switch do I need so when I open and close my console lid the light will come on and off, can some one post a picture of the switch and the location of it, I have the one that goes on the door and trunk.. Will this switch work on my console? Any help will be appreciated thanks...

 

When you get the new liner, which is actually two pieces, you'll see where the lid switch goes. There will be a hole for it. The switch pictured is wrong, the one you need has two small male tabs, and it competes the ground circuit for the light, they are the two black wires in your harness should have the female tabs on them for the switch. Check Fusick, The parts place or opgi for the switch....

 

I have some used ones. $14.00 shipped reasonable?
Scott
c. 317-727-7041

 

Scott, what is it you have? The console liner or the console switch? I need both and can you post a picture of it

 

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I have the switch for $14.00. I also have some console liners, here is a picture of the liners & the switch. This set needs some clean up obviously, but is in pretty good condition otherwise.
Like to get $50.00 shipped for this set, or $60.00 for the liners & switch shipped to you.
Lmk & thanks.

 

The only place I've seen the console door switch is H&H, and they are $35 a piece. The console liners are $59 at the parts place. Scott's is obviously much cheaper. I'm fact that's where I got mine

 

These pictures may help.

# 923 shows the wiring for the 2 bulbs and the special pin switch.



# 276 Shows a mock up of where to mount the switch.




# 291, How to paint the back, to give more light (paint the back side which is not visible to guests).

 

All assembled, with working switch and working lights.


# 302, assembled box. I use a white paper towel at the bottom to help brighten up the box at night.





#285, I also painted the area near the shift light. I used testors model paint. I used the next level brighter bulb too.




Note the small white paint brushes and the bottle of paint at the bottom of screen.
The extra paint made the lights much brighter.

 

Be careful going with brighter bulbs in applications near plastic. Brighter means more wattage which means more heat.
If you want more light, it would be safer to install the new LED lights if you have room. They can give much more light and use less energy and produce less heat than even the original bulbs. They are all over ebay. Just remember that they are polarity sensitive. If you plug it in one way and it doesn't work, just unplug it and turn it 180 degrees and plug it in again and it will work.
You can also get the LED bulbs in colors and even varying degrees of "white".

 

Randy / W70442 is quite correct on being carful on wattage.

If you crank up the wattage too much you will start to melt stuff and possibly worse things can happen.
As for the my Console upgrade here are the bulb Specifications.


Original: 1891 3.4 watts, 25Lumens (T3.25 bayonet). 0.24 Amps at 14V

New: 1816 4.3 watts, 38 Lumens (T3.25bayonet). 0.33 amps at 14V

Overall wattage increase approximately 1 watt.

The majority of the brightness increase came from using White paint to improve the reflection.
I always check the specifications of each bulb carefully before “upgrading”.
Wattage (Heat), Voltage, Color-Temperature and the rarely published Lumens (The actual brightness of the bulb)

If you want to swap an Incandescent Bulb with a LED bulb, make sure you check the Lumens rating. LED systems will almost always use Less wattage and generate less heat than the equivalent Incandescent Bulb. Unfortunately, the majority of the LED bulbs will be “Dimmer” than the stock Incandescent Bulb.

 

Thanks, w70 and thanks mile71, those are great pictures,that's exactly what I have been trying to look up and good tips too on how to make it brighter too, as for the bulbs I like both, I know LED's might be brighter an cooler but I just don't want to splice and hack up the wire harness.. By the way miles71 nice job on that carpet it looks good how did you get it to lay flat like that? I couldn't get mine to lay flat, is there a trick to that, mine looks OK but I couldn't get to lay flat around the hump

 

Hi Al:
Pictures are deceiving. My first carpet install came out fair. My inexperience was part of the problem, the rest was a burnt plastic bottom of the carpet transmission hump neat the gas pedal. The flat carpets are placed in a mold and heated and pressed. The gas pedal part (under-side) was burnt. My carpet came from Year One. I love the color, and I personally like my gold carpet better than my old black carpet.

I did spend a lot of time
cutting and trimming over and over again, ¼ inch at a time. I messed up by Not having a big flat table handy. I installed the front carpet section at least 50 times. I also adjusting the jute padding and added extra layers of FAT-Mat in key locations during the repeated carpet placement tests.

Another trick I tired, was Cement Cinder blocks placed on pads over night to help squash down the carpet on either side of the transmission hump. I think it took me 4 nights of testing before I was satisfied.

 

Wow, who ever thought installing a carpet would turn out so difficult, I too fought it and fought it over and over and I could not get it to lay flat in some areas, I'm going to give it one more shot at it now that the weather is getting hotter and I have a convertible,I'm going to wait for a very hot day take the seats out,drop the top and and place heavy items over the areas that are not flat and cross my fingers that works

 

Hi Al,

You shouldn't have to hack any wiring to swich to the LED bulbs. The LED bulbs are made with many different factory style plug ends. They fit just fine in the factory sockets.