68-72 Convertible Ashwell Speaker Location

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Old September 29th, 2013, 09:28 AM
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68-72 Convertible Ashwell Speaker Location

I've seen a number of these threads pop up and since I just did this install this summer I thought I'd offer a few tips. This location is really the only option if you don't have air conditioning (aftermarket kick panels), don't want to cut holes in the doors, or don't want boxes cluttering up your back seat. The arm rest location doesn't give very good bass but it's better than the only other option which is mounted to the convertible framing behind the seat. As most have reported, with the top down you'll get hardly any sound from that location.

I began by removing the ashtray, taking a piece of 18" or so mechanics wire, bending it so I had about an inch hook on the end. Then, sticking in the wire end with the "L" on it, I ran the top up and down until I confirmed how much clearance I had between the vertical surface of the ash well and the side of the hydraulic cylinder. I re-bent the wire a few times until I figured that I had about 1 3/8" on one side and 1 1/2" on the other. The location will vary depending on how tight they installed the ash wells to the side of the car and also how much the convertible cylinder assembly is shimmed from the body.

1 3/8" isn't enough clearance to install most any speaker so you need to do a little tweaking to make it work. You have a couple options. I bought the speakers and a shim kit from Crutchfield. I've posted a pic of the shim below. Unfortunately the shim is about 1/2 or 3/4" which really shoves the speaker into the side of the seat and it didn't look very good. I ended up making a donut shaped shim from a piece of 7/32" luan plywood. I installed it behind the vinyl to push the speaker out. Because it's behind the vinyl, you can't see it. It turns out the 7/32" wasn't quite enough and the cylinder on the passenger side grazes the speaker as the top opens and closes but it's not enough to do any damage to the speaker.

To do all this and not make a hacked up mess you should mock up the location using your speaker grill as a template. Then remove the rear seat base and back. Remove the window crank and rear door panel, unscrew the whole ash-well assembly, and install the speaker on a bench where you can work on it without swearing a lot and having body parts fall asleep as you contort you body into the back seat. It's also a heck of a lot easier to run wires with the rear seat out too.

The speakers I chose (with Crutchfield's help) were the Pioneer TS-G1644R 6-1/2" 2-Ways. They were $49.99. The shim kit I didn't use was another $7.99. The speakers are about 1 5/8" deep. The sound isn't great, but I doubt any speaker in this location is going to push any bass. If you want more bass, and you don't want to see anything, you're going to have to mount a subwoofer in a box in the trunk. I've got a car seat on my passenger side so the sound is lost behind that too.

I should note that someone makes a double speaker that fits in the factory opening in the dash. It's like two 3 1/2" speaker next to each other. You won't get any base from those for sure.





Last edited by allyolds68; September 29th, 2013 at 05:39 PM.
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Old September 29th, 2013, 05:31 PM
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Good work - that looks great! I like how the black blends in with the upholstery, too.
I was lucky enough to have found special low depth 6.5'ers long ago that fit well without spacers or mods. However those were discontinued a while back and this seems to be the next best way to get speakers into that area.
Mine sound pretty good. No boominess, but I am not into that anyway. Loud and clear was all I needed.
As for the dash speaker, i would go for a dual voice coil 4x10 for more cone area which will give a more fuller sound (but still no deep bass).
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