67 Toro - No Brake Lights - HELP PLEASE!
May 2nd, 2013, 06:57 AM
#1
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Location: Katy, Texas
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67 Toro - No Brake Lights - HELP PLEASE!
I have a 1967 Toronado Deluxe and the brake lights do not work. I have checked all the bulbs, and they are good. The running lights and turn signals work. The cornering lights do not work, but I have not been able to check the bulbs. Wiring is there. The back-up lights work. I replaced the brake light switch, but that did not fix the problem.
Additional information. The gas guage does not work, but when the car is shifted into reverse, the gas guage moves all the way past the full mark. Not sure if this is related to the brake light probem or not.
Help! What should I look at/do next? Thanks for your assistance and advise!
Additional information. The gas guage does not work, but when the car is shifted into reverse, the gas guage moves all the way past the full mark. Not sure if this is related to the brake light probem or not.
Help! What should I look at/do next? Thanks for your assistance and advise!
May 2nd, 2013, 07:32 AM
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 14,208
About the gas gauge, a gauge that goes way past full and stays there is indicative of an open circuit. There is no reason that shifting into reverse should cause this except possibly that the slight change in the geometry of the drivetrain when shifted into reverse is somehow pulling on a wire somewhere and causing the open circuit. It's also possible that the wire going to the gauge is somehow being affected by the shift into R action right at the speedometer cluster itself where the shift indicator is.
I would start with the basic first test that any investigation of a failed gas gauge begins with, and that's separating the wire coming from the sending unit at the tank from the wire coming from the gauge. These two connect in the rear of the car, usually in the area around the license plate. The wire is likely orange in color, and there is a connector that you can pull apart.
With the wire pulled apart, ground the end coming from the gauge, and turn the key ON. The gauge should immediately go to E. Remove the wire from ground, and it should immediately go past F as it is doing now. If the gauge does these two things reliably, then there is no problem with the gauge itself or the wiring from the gauge to the back of the car.
If the gauge does not behave this way, then you need to get down on the floor and peer up behind the dash to where the wiring connector to the back of the printed circuit connects and pull gently on each wire with the ignition ON and friend watching the gauge to see if pulling on any of the wires causes the gauge to move at all. If it's stuck past F, then this might not work as the circuit is already open. But if wiggling a wire causes the gauge to jump around, then you have a loose connection.
If the gauge and wiring to the back of the car check out, your next step is to get under the car ahead of the gas tank and look to make sure the other wire coming off the sending unit, the black ground wire, is securely fastened to the body and that there is no grime or corrosion around it. If it is not grounded properly, the circuit is open, and the gauge will go past F. This is a common source of fuel gauge problems, and it's my guess as the actual source of your problem because of the relationship between your gauge's behavior and the shift into reverse. The slight jerking of the drivetrain when this happens is perhaps enough to wiggle that ground wire a bit and cause the intermittent problem.
If, on the other hand, the ground is solid and tight and you still have a funky gas gauge, then it's time to check the sending unit itself, and that means dropping the gas tank.
I would start with the basic first test that any investigation of a failed gas gauge begins with, and that's separating the wire coming from the sending unit at the tank from the wire coming from the gauge. These two connect in the rear of the car, usually in the area around the license plate. The wire is likely orange in color, and there is a connector that you can pull apart.
With the wire pulled apart, ground the end coming from the gauge, and turn the key ON. The gauge should immediately go to E. Remove the wire from ground, and it should immediately go past F as it is doing now. If the gauge does these two things reliably, then there is no problem with the gauge itself or the wiring from the gauge to the back of the car.
If the gauge does not behave this way, then you need to get down on the floor and peer up behind the dash to where the wiring connector to the back of the printed circuit connects and pull gently on each wire with the ignition ON and friend watching the gauge to see if pulling on any of the wires causes the gauge to move at all. If it's stuck past F, then this might not work as the circuit is already open. But if wiggling a wire causes the gauge to jump around, then you have a loose connection.
If the gauge and wiring to the back of the car check out, your next step is to get under the car ahead of the gas tank and look to make sure the other wire coming off the sending unit, the black ground wire, is securely fastened to the body and that there is no grime or corrosion around it. If it is not grounded properly, the circuit is open, and the gauge will go past F. This is a common source of fuel gauge problems, and it's my guess as the actual source of your problem because of the relationship between your gauge's behavior and the shift into reverse. The slight jerking of the drivetrain when this happens is perhaps enough to wiggle that ground wire a bit and cause the intermittent problem.
If, on the other hand, the ground is solid and tight and you still have a funky gas gauge, then it's time to check the sending unit itself, and that means dropping the gas tank.
May 2nd, 2013, 12:06 PM
#6
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Sistersville, WV
Posts: 2,163
Brake light circuit runs through turn signal switch.
Do you have a tilt wheel? Is turn signal/corner lamp switch located on side of steering column? These are adjustable, and may be cause of both brake light and corner lamp trouble. Check CSM and wiring diagram.
Do you have a tilt wheel? Is turn signal/corner lamp switch located on side of steering column? These are adjustable, and may be cause of both brake light and corner lamp trouble. Check CSM and wiring diagram.
May 3rd, 2013, 06:29 PM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Wilmington, Delaware
Posts: 225
I'll tell you that on my '66 Toro I have the same problem. Not only do the tail lights not work but the gauges and power accessories won't work either. The fix, well, I jiggle the keys a bit while they're in the ignition and the engine running until power is restored to those items. It seems there is a spot in the switch that shorts out power and I just have to find the 'sweet' spot to get everything back on. I see ignition switches on eBay frequently and at the nice price so I'm certain a new switch is in my future. So, give it a jiggle and see if it works for you.
Chris
Chris
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