1975 Cutlass Supreme battery cable help
#1
1975 Cutlass Supreme battery cable help
I don't know cars, but I'm trying to learn. I have a beautiful Cutlass that I would love to get running again. I know the battery cables need to be replaced. I got one of them off today. Talk about being proud of myself! But I couldn't reach the other one. Do I have to jack the car up and get under it to get it off? Thanks.
#2
Yes, one cable goes to the starter and you normally have to get under the car to get to it. Be sure to disconnect it from the battery first.
Since you're a novice, do you know about safety things like using jack stands or ramps and not getting under a car supported by only a jack?
Since you're a novice, do you know about safety things like using jack stands or ramps and not getting under a car supported by only a jack?
#3
Yes, one cable goes to the starter and you normally have to get under the car to get to it. Be sure to disconnect it from the battery first.
Since you're a novice, do you know about safety things like using jack stands or ramps and not getting under a car supported by only a jack?
Since you're a novice, do you know about safety things like using jack stands or ramps and not getting under a car supported by only a jack?
I know nothing about how to get under the car, but I so want to do it myself. What can you tell me?
Thanks for your help.
#4
Go to Harbor Freight or similar store and buy yourself a pair of 5 ton jackstands (overkill does not hurt here). If you don't have a hydraulic floor jack, buy one of those too. Those will be cheap insurance against disaster.
Time was I'd have said go to Sears for this stuff but since it's all made in the same Chinese factory now, no need to pay extra for Sears name. HF will almost always make things good if something doesn't work right.
Park the car on level ground and jack the car up under the driver side control arm using the car's spring perch (round area in control arm). Raise it high enough to get one of the jackstands under it and then carefully lower the car onto the jackstand, making sure the stand has a good solid footing. No soft ground or loose gravel. If you don't have a concrete driveway, a piece of sturdy 3/8" to 1/2" plywood is an acceptable substitute. Once the car is stabilized on the stand, you can then slide under there and have fun removing the positive cable.
Word of warning- I've always found it easier to drop the starter than to fight with the cable in place up next to the engine block. Those starters are HEAVY.
You will find one, maybe two, smaller heavy-gauge red wires attached to the starter's battery cable post. That wire feeds the rest of the car's electrical system. Make sure it goes back correctly.
You will also see a purple wire going to the terminal marked S on the solenoid (small cylinder shaped thing that rides on top of the starter motor). That one must go back to the S terminal for the starter to work properly. Some starter solenoids also have a R terminal which is for cars with points ignitions- your car should have an HEI electronic distributor and does not require use of the R terminal.
Which takes us to the next step- after 37 years, while the starter's out might as well have it checked, serviced and lubricated by a good car electrical shop.
Are you beginning to see that with old cars, one thing leads to another? It's like LoganMiller68 said a couple days ago- "I've got a bad case of the might-as-wells!"
Good luck. None of us were born knowing how to do anything, but satisfaction gained by doing a job successfully yourself is priceless.
Time was I'd have said go to Sears for this stuff but since it's all made in the same Chinese factory now, no need to pay extra for Sears name. HF will almost always make things good if something doesn't work right.
Park the car on level ground and jack the car up under the driver side control arm using the car's spring perch (round area in control arm). Raise it high enough to get one of the jackstands under it and then carefully lower the car onto the jackstand, making sure the stand has a good solid footing. No soft ground or loose gravel. If you don't have a concrete driveway, a piece of sturdy 3/8" to 1/2" plywood is an acceptable substitute. Once the car is stabilized on the stand, you can then slide under there and have fun removing the positive cable.
Word of warning- I've always found it easier to drop the starter than to fight with the cable in place up next to the engine block. Those starters are HEAVY.
You will find one, maybe two, smaller heavy-gauge red wires attached to the starter's battery cable post. That wire feeds the rest of the car's electrical system. Make sure it goes back correctly.
You will also see a purple wire going to the terminal marked S on the solenoid (small cylinder shaped thing that rides on top of the starter motor). That one must go back to the S terminal for the starter to work properly. Some starter solenoids also have a R terminal which is for cars with points ignitions- your car should have an HEI electronic distributor and does not require use of the R terminal.
Which takes us to the next step- after 37 years, while the starter's out might as well have it checked, serviced and lubricated by a good car electrical shop.
Are you beginning to see that with old cars, one thing leads to another? It's like LoganMiller68 said a couple days ago- "I've got a bad case of the might-as-wells!"
Good luck. None of us were born knowing how to do anything, but satisfaction gained by doing a job successfully yourself is priceless.
#5
Go to Harbor Freight or similar store and buy yourself a pair of 5 ton jackstands (overkill does not hurt here). If you don't have a hydraulic floor jack, buy one of those too. Those will be cheap insurance against disaster.
Time was I'd have said go to Sears for this stuff but since it's all made in the same Chinese factory now, no need to pay extra for Sears name. HF will almost always make things good if something doesn't work right.
Park the car on level ground and jack the car up under the driver side control arm using the car's spring perch (round area in control arm). Raise it high enough to get one of the jackstands under it and then carefully lower the car onto the jackstand, making sure the stand has a good solid footing. No soft ground or loose gravel. If you don't have a concrete driveway, a piece of sturdy 3/8" to 1/2" plywood is an acceptable substitute. Once the car is stabilized on the stand, you can then slide under there and have fun removing the positive cable.
Word of warning- I've always found it easier to drop the starter than to fight with the cable in place up next to the engine block. Those starters are HEAVY.
You will find one, maybe two, smaller heavy-gauge red wires attached to the starter's battery cable post. That wire feeds the rest of the car's electrical system. Make sure it goes back correctly.
You will also see a purple wire going to the terminal marked S on the solenoid (small cylinder shaped thing that rides on top of the starter motor). That one must go back to the S terminal for the starter to work properly. Some starter solenoids also have a R terminal which is for cars with points ignitions- your car should have an HEI electronic distributor and does not require use of the R terminal.
Which takes us to the next step- after 37 years, while the starter's out might as well have it checked, serviced and lubricated by a good car electrical shop.
Are you beginning to see that with old cars, one thing leads to another? It's like LoganMiller68 said a couple days ago- "I've got a bad case of the might-as-wells!"
Good luck. None of us were born knowing how to do anything, but satisfaction gained by doing a job successfully yourself is priceless.
Time was I'd have said go to Sears for this stuff but since it's all made in the same Chinese factory now, no need to pay extra for Sears name. HF will almost always make things good if something doesn't work right.
Park the car on level ground and jack the car up under the driver side control arm using the car's spring perch (round area in control arm). Raise it high enough to get one of the jackstands under it and then carefully lower the car onto the jackstand, making sure the stand has a good solid footing. No soft ground or loose gravel. If you don't have a concrete driveway, a piece of sturdy 3/8" to 1/2" plywood is an acceptable substitute. Once the car is stabilized on the stand, you can then slide under there and have fun removing the positive cable.
Word of warning- I've always found it easier to drop the starter than to fight with the cable in place up next to the engine block. Those starters are HEAVY.
You will find one, maybe two, smaller heavy-gauge red wires attached to the starter's battery cable post. That wire feeds the rest of the car's electrical system. Make sure it goes back correctly.
You will also see a purple wire going to the terminal marked S on the solenoid (small cylinder shaped thing that rides on top of the starter motor). That one must go back to the S terminal for the starter to work properly. Some starter solenoids also have a R terminal which is for cars with points ignitions- your car should have an HEI electronic distributor and does not require use of the R terminal.
Which takes us to the next step- after 37 years, while the starter's out might as well have it checked, serviced and lubricated by a good car electrical shop.
Are you beginning to see that with old cars, one thing leads to another? It's like LoganMiller68 said a couple days ago- "I've got a bad case of the might-as-wells!"
Good luck. None of us were born knowing how to do anything, but satisfaction gained by doing a job successfully yourself is priceless.
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