I had to replace the starter on my 1972 cutlass, however the replacement starter does not have the tapped hole to attach the starter brace. Can I drill and tap a blind hole approximately 1/2" deep into the case? Are there any implications such as interference with the rotating components inside, or electrical issues that may arise due to this change?

Thanks,

 

I would take the starter apart to drill the hole - you do not want to drill into the stator coils.

Or, you could take the starter back and tell them you want one with a hole in it.

- Eric

 

If you are not worried about being original I would just leave it off. You won't likely find a replacement with the hole in it.

 

I faced that exact problem. As suggested, first disassemble the starter. You can then see where there is a gap that will allow you to drill and tap a hole for the brace and not hit the field windings. The metal is soft and drills & taps pretty easily. Be sure to clean any metal filings out before reassembly.

 

We've all left this PITA off at one time or another, but there are two good reasons to reinstall it. First is the obvious structural one. The starter is not exactly light and without the brace, there's a signficant bending load taken out by the aluminum nosepiece and starter bolts. The more important reason is starter ground path. Without the brace, the only ground path for the starter is from the steel case through the aluminum nosepice to the iron block. Aluminum and ferrous metals suffer galvanic corrosion, which will eventually cause too much resistance in the ground path and hard starting. The steel ground strap bypasses the aluminum starter nose and provides a better ground path.

 

what he said

provides torque support as well. All the torque developed at the armature must be provided by pushing against the housing/ coil pack [via magnetic fields].

do it right, drill the hole

 

Why don't you just rebuild the starter and keep the OEM case? It's not hard to rebuild. Heck if I can do it so can you.

 

X2. The only reason not to simply rebuild the original starter is if the windings are burned out or the commutator is badly worn. Fortunately, these events are pretty rare. Usually all it takes is brushes, starter drive, and a new solenoid. Of course, most auto parts stores don't stock these parts anymore, only rebuilt starters. You can get the parts but you have to wait to order them. Same problem with alternators.

 

Actually Joe, up here I can get that kit (and did) when I redid mine. My solenoid was ok though but I did take it apart and reconditioned the copper disc and cleaned up the copper poles in the cap. Not hard at all.

 

My 455 has worked fine for 5 years with a 350 starter and no brace

 

same here lol 7 year club no brace

 

Mine had no shims either from the factory.

 

Since he already has a new starter, why not just swap the new fields into the old case and use the rest of the new starter?

 

I don't think he HAS the original starter any more. Probably turned it in for the 12.00 core or whatever. That's pretty common when people are starting out.

 

12.00 core?? Wow, up here it's 60.00 core.

 

Thanks, the original case had a crack at the seam along the bottom and could not be salvaged. The internals have been restored. I feel that in keeping with the historic and mechanical properties, the brace will be re-installed.

 

Have you considered buying an OEM used (needs rebuild) from one of the guys on the site for the case?

 

I agree with Joe.
I installed the brace on my starter for the reasons above and also I thought it would help shield the starter from some heat from the exhaust pipe.
Also if I remember my Z bar return spring attaches to the bracket.
The previous owner had the spring attached to one of the exhaust pipe studs.
Joe