Hello, I am working on my Dad's 1950 Olds 88. It has not been started in many years. I have a lot of experience working with late 60s/early 70s Chevys, but none on this make/year. When I turn the key to RUN position (not pressing start button), I hear a clicking noise, that seems like a relay. The engine turns over ok (not starting yet). The battery was at 12.3 volts. Is the clicking noise normal? If not what should I check?

Thanks for your help/suggestions,
Joe

 

12.3v is a low battery, the clicking sound is probably the voltage regulator.

 

Understood on the 12.3, the battery is charging overnight. Is that regulator noise normal or a sign that its bad?

 

Unless it has been converted to 12 volts that is a 6 volt car. Did you just install a 12 volt battery without knowing. That could be your problem.

 

Great point, I did just pull a 12 volt out of another car. How can I tell if it has been converted?

It does still have a generator if thats a factor.

 

Really good chance it is still 6 volts. The generator is probably a good indication. If somebody was going to the trouble of converting to 12 volts they would in all likelyhood use an alternator. You might check one of the headlights and see if it is still 6 volts. I will be surprised if it has been converted.

 

This is a generator, correct?

 

That may or may not be a generator, Powermaster make an alternator that looks like a generator. Checking the bulbs is probably a good bet on what the car is.

 

Good point Eric but I would be surprised if it is a Powermaster. But there is always that chance.

 

If the battery that was in the car was 6 volts, it hasn't been converted. If there was no battery, look at the tag on the generator. Delco generators usually have a tag. Read the numbers. Some of them have the voltage written on the tag. As mentioned you likely got clicking from the regulator by putting 12 volts on a 6 volt regulator.

 

Ok gentlemen, opinions?
Is below the regulator? Note reference to generator.



looks like 12v to me

 

Sure does. You might be able to take the generator to a parts store and get them to hook it up and see what it is putting out. Of course chances are they will look at you like you are from outer space since they probably won't have any idea what a generator is.

 

Look for a red tag on the side of the generator .
Post a photo of that , and we can tell you exactly what you have .
BTW if the system is 6 volts then that negative battery cable attached to the generator is much too thin .

 

My money is on it being a 6 volt system with a 12 volt battery. The voltage regulator looks like a 6 volt regulator and there doesn't appear to be a stepdown resistor that shows up in the pictures that I see.

Stick your battery charger on full charge on 6 volt bypass the 12 volt battery (doubtful car will turn over) and see if the clicking sound is still there. If not it's most likely a 6 volt system. By the way does it have a ballast resistor installed if it was changed over it must have a ballast resistor or the points will burn up in about 2 minutes without one....Tedd

 

There are no tags on the generator.

 

More pictures if it helps.

I don't think my charger/tender has 6 volt bypass option.

 

How about a shot of the firewall, there should be a ballast resistor(if installed for 12 volt) somewhere between the + side of the coil and the hot lead from the ignition/ starter. Or check your light bulbs in the tail lights or head lights and see if they are marked 6 volt or 12 volt. Without a voltage stepdown from the accessory side of the hot lead the 6 volt bulbs will generally only last a very short time, see if they are 12 volt or 6 volt. If it turns out that it is 6 volt do as Charlie said and replace that wimpy battery lead with a lead designed for 6 volt, should be about 2/0 in diameter..... Tedd

 

looking more likely a 12v system, with a generator and clicking sound with key on



is this the resistor? what is disconnected white wire?

12 v

 

Sure is looking like 12 volts. If they did a good conversion there should be a stepdown resistor for the heater blower and the radio if there is one.

 

Yes, that 1156 bulb is clearly marked 12V. Sometimes the ignition coil also has the primary side voltage marked on it.

 

The last picture is of the ballast resistor(white thing with the white wire) and that unhooked wire should be reattached and go to the + side of the coil, doubtful it will start without it...... Tedd

PS glad I didn't bet the farm.... Tedd again

 

Tedd, you mention that the unhooked white wire should go to +coil, but the other wire (black) from the resistor is attached to +coil?

 

OOps sorry I guess everyone in the world doesn't wire just like me. There should be a loose hot wire coming from ignition side of the switch usually from the starter so that you get a full 12 volts on start up to the points. After start up key rotates back to the run position and the juice goes through the ballast resistor and voltage is dropped to somewhere in the 7-9 volt range to save the points.I didn't look close enough at your coil, my bad, I often get in to much of a hurry.... Tedd

 

hi I have a 1950 88 and it has a 6v to 12v converter in the glove box. It’s probably from the 70’s or 80’s. As for the clicking sound is it the relay pump from the gas tank? I got my car from my dad and I worked for 3 months trying to start it with a 6v battery until I realized that my dad installed this converter. Good luck

 

Reuben,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I did find the clicking sound and it was an electric fuel pump mounted on the frame under the driver door. I fixed a few minor problems but now the car wont start again...not getting enough voltage to the starter solenoid. I have another thread on this. I just bought the the cars electrical wiring diagram to assist in troubleshooting.