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getting ready to wire up my build on an engine test stand.
Is 18 gauge wire suitable or should I go with a heavier gauge wire for the gauges and switches?
I would try to duplicate wire gauge as used on the vehicle for similar circuits. I think 18ga would be ok for temp, pressure and rpm gauges but perhaps go a little bigger for the start/run switch. That is a very clean looking set up, is it hand built?
I would try to duplicate wire gauge as used on the vehicle for similar circuits. I think 18ga would be ok for temp, pressure and rpm gauges but perhaps go a little bigger for the start/run switch. That is a very clean looking set up, is it hand built?
x2 I agree w/ Dan. Gauges are fine @ 18 (preferably 16), but start/run/ignition operations would benefit from 12 or 14. Obviously, you're going to need mega wamp *** gauge for battery and ground terminals.
You need bigger wire for the starter solenoid. The longer the distance, the bigger wire needed to minimize voltage drop. Same thing with higher current.
You need bigger wire for the starter solenoid. The longer the distance, the bigger wire needed to minimize voltage drop. Same thing with higher current.
Use too small a wire, you will need this!
I would love to get some of that but it is rarely for sale anymore. It reminds me of the meme that was promulgated when I was first in Naval Aviation where an old timer would send a Noob to get 50 feet of flight line...
This part number is for older electrical systems using a positive ground. There should be a different part number for negative ground systems. Going by my BSA and Triumph motorcycles, the switch would be after 1985.
This part number is for older electrical systems using a positive ground. There should be a different part number for negative ground systems. Going by my BSA and Triumph motorcycles, the switch would be after 1985.
How careless of me! I’ll be sure to update my notes.
We used to call the British electrical parts manufacturer "Lucas prince of darkness"
"Prince of darkness" wasn't always true. When BSA singles (single cylinder) went to "unit construction" in 1959 with an alternator housed in the primary side, lighting was on a par with cars of the day. BSA twins (twin cylinders) went to "unit construction) in 1963 or 1964 and the alternator improved lighting to standards of the day.
The earlier lighting systems with magneto's were truly deficient at low engine RPM's.
"Prince of darkness" wasn't always true. When BSA singles (single cylinder) went to "unit construction" in 1959 with an alternator housed in the primary side, lighting was on a par with cars of the day. BSA twins (twin cylinders) went to "unit construction) in 1963 or 1964 and the alternator improved lighting to standards of the day.
The earlier lighting systems with magneto's were truly deficient at low engine RPM's.
In most of the cases we experienced with Lucas "darkness", it was failed switches, connectors and intermittent wiring harnesses. Most of the other stuff was OK. Never had a problem with a generator or alternator unless it was a wire pulling loose.
