I'm going to run a 12 Gauge (600V insulation) wire from my fuse block (the IGN terminal) to my pos. side of the Flamethrower coil that I'm about to install with my Ignitor kit for a full 12V in place of the exsisting resistor wire. Is that a big enough wire to handle the load? Or should I go 10 gauge? This is for a 1970 Ninety Eight/455. Also I have spare points, brand new in the box. While I'm in there should I replace them for the hell of it and set dwell first or not needed. Thanks. Tom. Also, should I upgrade to 8mm wires too?

 

You will need alot of sets of points. As your going to burn them doing that.That is why there is a resistance wire in the system.12 v is only used in the start position, The 3rd wire on your starter. If you want more fire Go HEI system or Quality set of points & hotter plugs

 

Waste of time and money.

Pertronix = an electronic switch to replace the points. Good idea for anyone who is not comfortable dealing with them.

yes.

Good to have along, if the electronics were to fail at an inconvenient place. I used to carry a spare distributor instead. Takes up more space, but it's easier to replace the entire dist, than to convert the Pertronix back to points.

After you read the directions, you may find out you do not need them.

They won't show any power gain, and may not last as long as OEM replacements. Stick with the AC-Delco parts that your car was designed to use.

Norm

 

I'll put the spare points in the glove box. Thanks. I just read the directions AGAIN. That was a stupid question on my part. Tom.

 

Speaking of tune up procedure on points only, You set the dwell after you have initially set the point gap statically. Adjusting the point gap (on stock GM type points) while the engine is running is setting the dwell. Dwell is a term applied to how long the points are closed during firing of each spark plug, which is how long the coil is allowed to discharge it's high voltage charge. The dwell setting is the fine tuning, the initial point gap is the coarse tuning. Here is a link from an online dictionary.

ttp://100megsfree4.com/dictionary/car-dicd.htm

 

Yes, thanks Oldsguy. You put it in easy to understand terminology. Sometimes the books are not clear. (To me).

 

Funny you should mention that. Back in the late 1970s I had an early Mallory electronic ignition conversion on my 68 Vista. This was an optical system that used a chopper wheel under the rotor and an LED and opto sensor in place of the points. It was very easy to install and did not require disassembly of the distributor. One Friday afternoon the electronics failed. I had an old set of points with me, so I pulled out the electronics, reinstalled the points, gapped them with a matchbook cover, and off I went. Newer is not always better.

 

You said it! And I agree.

 

I suggest ditching the points and installing an HEI ignition or Pertronix kit. I have a Pertronix kit in my distributor and it performs well and isn't any trouble. It is alot easier when you don't have to set point gap and dwell every time you do a tune up.

Along the lines of what Joe said... I have heard that small planes with reciprocating piston engines still use magneto ignitions. I guess it is considered safer than points, or electronic ignitions. You wouldn't want to be a 10,000 feet and have an electronic ignition module go bad, or points that burnt up.

 

Olds 64, yeah I'm going to go Pertronix. I just got the QQ plates in the mail, so the car is "On the road" now. I did plugs, wires, cap, rotor, PCV, fuel filter, oil change and filter. Now I'll drive her whenever the weather here (NJ) clears and see how she runs first, just to make sure the basics are covered. But I did run the wire today from the fuse box into the engine bay for future. It's just not terminated at both ends. Time is precious now as I'm expecting my first son born in 8-10 weeks. I think this might be a good opertunity to learn Old School tuning first, with the points, while I still have the time. Lamaze class tomorrow!