Hey everyone, I have this 1983 Delta 88 Royale sedan with a 307 in it. Just recently got it running and of course the vacuum is a nightmare. Idle seems okay and it'll drive, but my brake pedal is pretty stiff but moveable like you can stand on it and the car will eventually stop. I am confident it has a vacuum error. I referenced the diagram and there are many things on the diagram that are not on the car as well as things on the car that are not in the diagram.

Before getting into this I want to say I resurrected this car after sitting for 3 years and haven't taken wheels off yet as I needed to be able to roll it around.
I will be doing a brake bleed and pad change for the front at a minimum once I know the vacuum is correct or at least sustainable.
The line from the booster runs down to a small metal pipe that goes along the rear of the engine to the passenger side valve cover and it comes forward a bit. From there is a longer hose that has a blue.. thing on it?
The booster itself is pulling vacuum but its not very strong. I suspect it is possible I may have a collapsed soft line or a seized caliper?
Can anyone out there advise me on the proper routing for this booster vacuum? Really wanna nail it down before I flush out all the old fluid and do the front brakes.

 

I suspect the hard pedal is due to that vacuum connection. The caliper would not cause the issue you describe.

On my car that metal pipe from the booster is attached to a 90 degree fitting on the intake manifold behind the carburetor. I see a plug in the intake behind your carb, so that may be where the metal line should connect.

I would find a dedicated manifold vacuum source and connect the booster to it.

 

It will pay you to get these two books. They're the 1983 Delta 88 Chassis Service Manual and the 1983 Olds Electrical Troubleshooting Manual. Easily found online, but get an original print copy, not a reprint or CD-ROM or PDF.

They'll help you untangle that spaghetti of vacuum hoses and electric wiring.

 

If the car has been running or sitting for an extended period of time w/o a vacuum hose connected to the carburetor choke pull off, you most likely want to install a new choke pull off - at the very least you should ensure you have a vacuum hose attached to the choke pull off.

 

very helpful thank you! I will check it out asap

 

definitely going to grab one of these asap!

 

Since you're diving into both vacuum & brakes, it would be a benefit to install a new brake booster check valve. They're ~$10-$15 & most parts stores have them in stock. They get filled w/ soot, debris, grime, etc. & can play havoc w/ vacuum if they degrade over time. It's a good general maintenance item to replace on the brake system this old. Ideally it would be nice to see a clip holding the vacuum line to the check valve.

 

good call, will definitely be replacing this too.

 

this is definitely going to my first order of business! must have missed that port/connection.

 

Since, we all have various backgrounds in automotive mechanics; and, in the case of you having already suspected you have a vacuum leak of some type, owning a vacuum gauge can be a huge help in identifying if you're pulling a good vacuum. A vacuum gauge runs ~$15-$25. Very useful in helping to address vacuum issues & almost vital to own if resolving carburetor, engine vacuum issues.

 

It is critical you pass the test encircled in red. Your goal is to achieve a "steady" vacuum reading - this diagram will assist. If you need assistance in dialing in the appropriate carburetor A/F idle adjustment screws, members can assist you, as well. NOTE: It's important you have the engine dwell set appropriately & engine timing is adjusted correctly prior to adjusting carburetor A/F idle adjustment screws.

 

Factory only put one clamp on the hose and that was where it met the metal tube. There was no clamp on the check valve end of the hose. Totally normal. Now if the check valve is messed up or not getting a vacuum signal, that's a horse of another color.

 

Thanks for pointing that out. I wasn't 100% about factory clamp where hose attaches to check valve. If a clamp were installed correctly, a clamp would surely help to secure the hose to the check valve.

 

here are a couple of other demons to sort, i got some more pics today. there are some weird things going on for sure.
in the first pic, this check valve thing has a hose going back into itself like some dr seuss thing going on. it is connected to a metal hose that runs to the back of the carb in the second pic. its the lower threaded port there.
in my early reference pics of the old engine, that black cylindrical valve had the hose from the brake booster running into it...? weird
third pic shows the RH top of the intake, ive inspected it thoroughly for a spot to put on the brake booster hose but it doesnt seem like anything is there?
4th pic shows a port on the back of the smog pump that just.. doesnt have a hose going to it.
finally - the last pic is the vacuum reservoir and the lines just come off it, not hooked up to anything. the reservoir does not appear in the vacuum diagram.
oddly enough the car runs fairly well and the choke pull of works, it comes down to a decent idle. ive puttered around a little in the car and its died a couple times 100 percent due to loss of vacuum.
any tips or help on this continuing thread would be appreciated!!!!

 

got it sorted out, chassis service manual will be here next week and ill sort out the rest. thanks so much everyone who chimed in for me on this!