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I liked the blackwalls on the black car, but I would go RWL on this. Looks good.
Yeah, that's what I'm going to do. I actually was thinking redlines would be really cool, but I don't want to deal with the price or delivery time from Diamondback right now. Maybe when these wear out.
Here's a teaser. Just pulled the trigger on this wheel and tire combo, to be picked up at Carlisle. FYI, More Than Tires (who always has a big presence there since they are local to Carlisle) was about $20 apiece cheaper on the wheels than anywhere else. Tires were also less expensive. My only decision now is white letters or blackwalls.
Nice wheels..goes well. I'n not just saying that because we both have the same color car, btw, is that aqua interior i see?? I'd go with the raised whites
Yes, it is, and thus my dilemma. The car currently has the original bench seat with arm rest. I have a set of correct 1967 buckets (that fortunately no one bought at Nationals). The buckets were never offered in the Delta, only in the Delta Custom that year, and were only available in vinyl, not cloth (the aqua interior is cloth). The back seat is perfect, the front needs to be recovered. Covering the buckets would cost about the same as the bench, but I'd need to have them done (incorrectly) in the cloth pattern to match the rear. I'm not really worried about "correctness" for this car, but I'm still struggling with buckets vs. bench.
Yes, it is, and thus my dilemma. The car currently has the original bench seat with arm rest. I have a set of correct 1967 buckets (that fortunately no one bought at Nationals). The buckets were never offered in the Delta, only in the Delta Custom that year, and were only available in vinyl, not cloth (the aqua interior is cloth). The back seat is perfect, the front needs to be recovered. Covering the buckets would cost about the same as the bench, but I'd need to have them done (incorrectly) in the cloth pattern to match the rear. I'm not really worried about "correctness" for this car, but I'm still struggling with buckets vs. bench.
if you switched out the bench for buckets you'd have no armwrest to speak of since you don't have console. I have original bench/armwrest as well. I'd keep the original bench, seems like less work and expense.
Yes, it is, and thus my dilemma. The car currently has the original bench seat with arm rest. I have a set of correct 1967 buckets (that fortunately no one bought at Nationals). The buckets were never offered in the Delta, only in the Delta Custom that year, and were only available in vinyl, not cloth (the aqua interior is cloth). The back seat is perfect, the front needs to be recovered. Covering the buckets would cost about the same as the bench, but I'd need to have them done (incorrectly) in the cloth pattern to match the rear. I'm not really worried about "correctness" for this car, but I'm still struggling with buckets vs. bench.
Would those Delta Custom buckets fit in a '60 Super 88?
if you switched out the bench for buckets you'd have no armwrest to speak of since you don't have console. I have original bench/armwrest as well. I'd keep the original bench, seems like less work and expense.
Yours is a Delta Custom, which came with the Strato Bench seat. That is different from the regular bench seat that came in the mid-range D88s like mine. The Strato Bench uses the seatbacks from the buckets, whereas the regular bench uses the normal rectangular seatbacks. The Strato Bench armrest is also different. If I had a Strato Bench, I'd probably keep it. As it is, I do have enough parts to assemble a console, and I have power seat bases for both buckets. Swapping buckets into the Delta is pretty easy.
By the way, the all-vinyl aqua interior is VERY rare and is unique to the Delta Custom for 1967. Beautiful.
Someone had posted a link to these guys in another thread. Worth a call to see if they have something like this for your ball joints. I've used similar on 4wd's in the past and they work well. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../INSSTEER.html
Someone had posted a link to these guys in another thread. Worth a call to see if they have something like this for your ball joints. I've used similar on 4wd's in the past and they work well. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../INSSTEER.html
That's very cool, thanks. Hopefully I won't need it, but good to know. And apologies to the OP for hijacking this threat. We no return you to your regularly scheduled discussion...
My '67 Delta has the bench seat with center armrest, and I wouldn't have it any other way. I always drive with the armrest down. If I didn't have the armrest, I would have no place to rest my right elbow!
Joe, Where that's happened to me, I dropped the weight of the car back down on the control arm (wood block under the spring) and that tightened the taper in the hole enough to get the nut off.
Yeah, tried that too...
This is a good news/bad news situation. The good news is that the suspension is coated with oil and grease. No rust and all the other bolts have come right out without complaint. The bad news is that the lower ball joint stud is also coated in oil, so it spins VERY freely in the spindle. Like said, at this point it's easy to just cut the nut. I'll be back at it after work today.
I moved the posts about my 67 out of the other thread since it was a pretty blatant hijack.
I did get the spindle off the LCA and fortunately it appears to be usable. The new ball joint stud fits in the spindle tightly with no slop, so I'm good to go. Here's what the LCA bushings look like. At least there's SOME rubber left.
At least I don't need to burn the rubber out to remove the bushings.
For completeness, here's the upper. I think the problem was that the PS pump and hoses at one time sprayed fluid all over that side of the car, and the oil caused the rubber to deteriorate. Good news is that all the bolts came right out - not a speck of rust. The crud is so thick on the suspension parts that I'm going to try coating them with oven cleaner. Once clean, I'll POR them.
Yeah, I know - that's a slippery slope and only a short distance until the body comes off the frame in a fit of MIGHTASWELLS...
Got the front suspension completely disassembled. The passenger side only had one of the four bushings with no rubber.
All the parts were caked with upwards of 1/2" of crud, which required considerable scraping to remove. I've coated everything with oven cleaner and let them soak - we'll see how well it removes the crud this afternoon. This cleaning and painting is really time consuming; I'm THIS close to just dropping everything off for blasting and powdercoat.
And so it begins...
I was able to get new Moog parts for everything in the suspension except the unobtanium upper ball joints. Craig (mobileparts) is going to set me up with an old stock pair from TRW at Carlisle. I've MIGHTASWELL-ed myself into replacing everything in the suspension and steering, except the center link and idler arm. Those will likely be replaced too, as soon as I disconnect the center link and determine if it's Saginaw or Thompson.
FedEx has been making daily stops to drop off RockAuto packages. Got all the brake hydraulics yesterday. Both spindles have pretty bad grooves where the seal rides, which probably explains the apparent grease migration from the seals. While not listed for this application, I found a Speedi-Sleeve for the 2.000 nominal seal diameter. At $24 each (for a thin ring of metal! ), they aren't cheap, but it's the only feasible way to repair the spindles short of far more expensive welding and remachining. FYI, the part number for that sleeve is 99200 and it fits just about every full size Olds spindle through 1990 (except the J88, as usual).
On other interesting thing happened. The car has been up on stands with the wheels and tires off for about a week now. I went out into the shop yesterday, and found this. This tire was just sitting on the floor with no load on it at all.
I have no idea what made it come apart. I'm just glad that didn't happen while I was out there. I'd have needed to change my shorts!
I have no idea. These are the tires that were on the car when I got it, and supported it just fine on the trailer. I have not checked the date codes. The new Torque Thrust wheels and BFG tires will be waiting for me at Carlisle in two weeks anyway. These were just roll-around shop tires, though they do have lots of tread left and are not weather checked or cracked.
Pulled the center link off the car to determine Saginaw vs. Thompson. I was concerned when the center link studs didn't go very far into either the idler or pitman arms as neither seal was anywhere close. Naturally, those parts are configured for the smaller Thompson studs whereas the center link currently in the car is a Saginaw. Neither castellated nut had a cotter pin because neither one could be tightened down far enough to expose the cotter pin hole. Even better, the nut on the idler side stud was stripped.
Call already in to Craig (mobileparts) for a correct Thompson link and idler.
Frequent readers may recall that I said this car had dual exhaust with the driver's side pipe routed to the single exhaust center dump manifold. Here's why that's a really bad idea.
It's far worse in reality than it appears in the photo. That section of pipe necks down to 2", and the flattened part next to the starter is compressed to less than half the original diameter. In fact, the dent is bowed in, so the actual cross section height must be well under 1". Yes, the pipe IS touching the starter. This is necessary to clear the steering linkage, which runs on the other side of the pipe but is off the car in this photo. Fortunately, the correct dual exhaust manifold is sitting in my shop and the correct pipes are waiting for me to pick up at Carlisle.
Naturally, the heat riser on the original manifold is free and working correctly...
Good news for the day is that Easy Off oven cleaner is an amazing degreaser. I sprayed the control arms yesterday, let them sit in a bag for 24 hrs, and most of the caked-on crud came off with a garden hose. Had I dragged out the pressure washer, the story would be even better. Mild scrubbing with a wire brush got nearly all of it. One more round with oven cleaner and these parts will be ready for POR.
I put tires on my 72 in 02 and they have about 18k on them. I will replace them soon, although they still look excellent. I have 6 wheels for the car, so I will put new tires on the other 2 rims, and keep two of these mounted for spares.
Made good progress with the front suspension parts. Got all the old ball joints and bushings out then cleaned everything with oven cleaner. As I noted above, what a painless way to do that! You'll recall this photo of one of the upper control arms from above:
This is what they looked like after two applications with oven cleaner and just a light scrub with a wire brush:
I did this for all the front suspension parts, then coated them with Rust Converter from TP Tools. I'll overcoat that with their Chassis Paint once the converter has cured.
Next I tackled the rear shocks and springs. Unlike the A-body cars, I was forced to alternately disconnect the upper control arms to get the rear axle housing to drop enough to get the springs out. Fortunately, all fasteners came out with no issues whatsoever. Interesting that the new Moog 5245 springs have fewer coils (but the same wire diameter) as the originals. That means they will be stiffer.
Got the new springs and KYB shocks all buttoned up.
Unfortunately, it seems like everything on this car is two steps forward and one back. Went to disassemble the front brakes to clean and paint the backing plates. What's wrong with this picture?
Yes, the right side brakes are missing all the self adjuster arm hardware, as well as the spring that goes across the bottom of the shoes.
See my Parts Wanted ad, as I need that self adjuster mechanism.
Hmmm...that's interesting. When i recently had all 4 brakes checked i dont' recall self adjusters on my front brakes, only on the back.. in fact, i think the guy made mention of that. My curiosity is piqued!
On another note...I've scoured the net and i can't find ANY exhaust pipes for this car..are there any interchangeable years, models??
Hmmm...that's interesting. When i recently had all 4 brakes checked i dont' recall self adjusters on my front brakes, only on the back.. in fact, i think the guy made mention of that. My curiosity is piqued!
On another note...I've scoured the net and i can't find ANY exhaust pipes for this car..are there any interchangeable years, models??
You won't find any pre-bent pipes for these cars. Walker and others have long discontinued them. The car IS only half a century old.
You'll either need to get a set bent from a vendor like Gardner or have a local muffler shop custom bend to fit.
You won't find any pre-bent pipes for these cars. Walker and others have long discontinued them. The car IS only half a century old.
You'll either need to get a set bent from a vendor like Gardner or have a local muffler shop custom bend to fit.
Aww..ok, thanks Joe. Not sure if you read my post on the crossover nightmare, i was just trying to simplify things. Looks like i'm going to be stuck with Midas.
Hmmm...that's interesting. When i recently had all 4 brakes checked i dont' recall self adjusters on my front brakes, only on the back.. in fact, i think the guy made mention of that. My curiosity is piqued!
The fronts definitely have adjusters. Below are photos before and after replacement of hardware of the left front brake on my '67 Delta.
As Joe P notes, the arm that contacts the adjuster wheel is not part of the typical brake rebuild kits. If I had any extras, I'd send you one.
I liked how in the kit I bought, the new springs are blue and green.
Aww..ok, thanks Joe. Not sure if you read my post on the crossover nightmare, i was just trying to simplify things. Looks like i'm going to be stuck with Midas.
Gardner seems to only deal in cutlass'/442's. Will a 67 442 exhaust fit on a Delta?
I liked how in the kit I bought, the new springs are blue and green.
Right front before and after.
Now you're just trying to make me jealous...
I ordered a rotor (1988 Chevy half-ton) and caliper (1971 D88) from RA. Will mock those up and see if I can modify an A-body caliper bracket to fit. If I can, the brand new front brake hardware and freshly-turned drums will be for sale.
I've been sliding down the MIGHTASWELL slippery slope (yeah, BIG shock there...), but I may have finally hit bottom. Front suspension parts cleaned and painted. At that point I figured I MIGHTASWELL swap the driver's side exhaust manifold. Since it was brand new, I figured I MIGHTASWELL pull the passenger side and paint them both with Cast Blast High Temp. Of course, I pulled the passenger manifold and it was badly pitted on the head sealing surface. Had it machined flat and I also remade the cap for the crossover port (the one on there was pretty crappy). Blasted the manifold and painted both. The flange on the head was slightly pitted also, so I used Acousti/Seal to be sure. Bolted the passenger manifold back on and got the suspension installed on that side. Thanks to Craig at Mobileparts for the otherwise unavailable upper ball joints.
Since the steering box and pump were leaking, I figured I MIGHTASWELL replace the box with a quick ratio box that I had from a Monte SS. Got the conversion flare fitting to let me use the original pressure hose. Rebuild pump installation is the next step. Once the pump is off, I need to install the driver's side manifold and I MIGHTASWELL change the valve cover gasket. Then I can put the suspension back together on that side.
Stay tuned. I really want to drive this before it snows.
Joe, i'm replacing my rear springs as well. I've looked and gotten different part numbers from different suppliers. Is the moog 5245 what I need for my 67 delta custom as well? (summit racingg)
Joe, i'm replacing my rear springs as well. I've looked and gotten different part numbers from different suppliers. Is the moog 5245 what I need for my 67 delta custom as well? (summit racingg)
Those are the ones. I unfortunately haven't got mine on the ground yet, so I can't tell you how the ride height is (don't ask... ). Note that RockAuto is about $13 less expensive ($44/pr plus shipping).
I've been sidetracked by cold weather and other priorities, but I have been building the 2.25" exhaust system from mandrel bends. I hope to finish the second tail pipe today. Then it's just minor stuff (fluid change, tune up, carb rebuild). Unfortunately, I've got a fair amount of business travel this month. Hope to drive it to our chapter Dust Off in April.
September 7th, 2016, 02:01 PM
