FrankieB

Ok time for an update on this thread as I've made quite a bit of progress. I brought the car back out of the garage after its winter hibernation a couple of months ago and raised her back up off the ground so as I could crack on.



I intended to the brakes next but knew I had to sort out the suspension too so did that first while the brakes were off.

The roll bar bushes were shot, the linkages were bent and one nut was missing. The whole car sat about 2 inches higher on the RH side at the front, and about an inch higher at the back. There was also some sort of cast aluminium spiral block with a square on the end jammed in between the coils on one of the front springs. Some sort of spring helper device maybe? The springs both sat at the same height on the bench, so I can only imagine the one from the other side popped out.

I gave the roll bar and a few other bits and pieces a lick of paint and when the Rockauto parcel arrived I was ready for it.

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I'd ordered the roll bar bushes for a 63 Dynamic 88, there was only one choice of size so I just pressed the button and into the basket it went. When they arrived, the bushes were far too small at 3/4". I didn't (I know I should have done) measure the bar before I ordered them, so was quite surprised to see it at 1 1/8". I spotted a Starfire fom the same year listed a 7/8" but that was it. If it had been swapped over by someone in the past it is a very good fit so I just ordered some bigger bushes and put it all together.

I rebuilt the brakes after replacing all the dampers and cleaning out all the old grease from the front steering components. I'd decided to fit an aftermarket brake booster and a dual master cylinder as the old booster was leaking and it needed a new master cylinder anyway. Fresh hoses, cylinders and Cupro-Nickel lines too.

The new booster had the same hole pattern on the firewall but the rod was too long, lifting the pedal far too high. I made a little coupling and threaded it to suit the new rod and drilled it to use the original pin. I then cut the rod and I've got a nice pedal height again now.

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It was then just a case of getting it ready for it's MOT test, then fill in the forms I needed to register it and be able to legally drive it on the road.

FrankieB

The horns didn't work at all, neither made any sort if sound so I ground off the rivet heads and split them in half. They had a paper gasket that had seen better days and some rust inside which I cleaned up, a ring of silicone sealant and bolted them back together. Two of the original fixing points were encased in the body so I had to leave these as long as I could so as to be able to peen them over to reassemble them. They work fine again now with a nice deep tone.
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I'd read a lot about the 394ci engine and automatic gearbox the car was fitted with, but with not being able to drive it on the road, I was limited to driving it backwards and forward in the driveway to see if everything worked or not. I topped up the fluids and checked the linkages to find the selector to gearbox rod bushing collapsed. The rod had a lot of slop so I made a little bush to fit which tightened it up.

I rebuild the choke as it wasn't working and found a short broken and twisted pipe attached to the front of the housing. In my bucket of bits I had a small pipe that I'd found in the car when I got it but didn't know what it was for. Now I knew, so pushed it into place and connected it up. The choke also now works a treat.

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I also had to repair the battery tray which had rotted away. I originally thought I'd be able to get a second hand one sent over as it's not very big or heavy but after looking into it, it seems I'm not the only one searching for a rust free example!

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FrankieB

All the lights work and I've fitted new UK headlamps to replace the old ones. The indicators are intermittent but do function more often than not. All the tyres have good tread and I've given the wheel arches a blow over with a rattle can. I'd had a half can of Fiat Silver/Blue paint sitting on the shelf for ages which was a really good match with the inside of the boot lid. The repairs had to be painted or left in primer, and as the rest of the paintwork is patchy and faded anyway, it hasn't turned out too bad and I'll just get a better matching colour but it'll be hard to make it blend in. Not standing out is easier aimed for.

The wiper is a two speed option with a screen washer and it's remarkably good. Really nice chrome switch in the dash with a cenral plunger. I replaced all the perished pipes, cleaned the tank out and filled it with water. No leaks so ignition on, pressed the button and bingo, the 54 year old produced a wiper blade rattling money shot a few seconds later!

It passed its MoT test and I fitted the new number plates yesterday so today I piloted it on its maiden voyage about fifteen miles to a local car show. It went pretty well really, moved through the gears as I hoped it would although I'm not feeling it move into top ratio. It splutters a bit if I put my foot hard down but sailed along at 50-60 mph no problem. I've got some ignition parts on order so I'll give it a service and take it from there. I'm looking forward to driving this as much as I can this summer.

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I'd also like to thank everyone who's offered help and advice over the last twelve months while I've been recommissioning the car. This website has been invaluable to me and I've spent hours, on many winter evenings on here.

Cheers,

Frank

Don R.

Great progress, glad to see its on the road.

FrankieB

It was great to finally drive it Don, I've just a few bits and pieces to sort out, not least the paintwork repair. The colour I used is way off when I looked at the pictures I posted last night. I took them in the afternoon and uploaded them with out looking at them first. I'll get a better colour match.

I've managed to get hold of a boot lid emblem and the drivers side 'dynamic 88' script with all the mounting studs complete. They cost me a few bob but I'm happy there's no missing trim now. And they're both in great condition so money well spent really. I'm hoping I can unbolt the front wing and pull it out enough to get my hand inside to tighten the nuts up. I'm not sure how to attach the one on the lid yet.

Charlie Jones

FrankieB,
Yes, the "wing" emblem nuts can be accessed by loosening two bolts at the bottom of the "wing" . Good luck if they're rusted .
On the "boot" emblem , the nuts are accessed by four half inch holes in the inner "boot" lid panel . Using a long socket and an extension . A small piece of chewing gum between the socket and the nut will help insure you don't lose it .

FrankieB

Thanks Charlie, I tackled the job at the weekend.

I managed to unbolt the 'fender' at the bottom and also needed to undo the four bolts holding it to the inner fender as well as the door hinge cover plate. It popped apart pretty easily and I got my hand up but it was very tight, great tip re the chewing gum by the way, I'll remember that for the future.

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The trunk lid emblem I got didn't have any clips with it and the car just had the square holes so I bonded it on with a blob around each pin. The lid itself has no access holes punched unto it to get at it from the rear.

I'll need to do something about the wheels and tyres at some point too. When I got the car it had 3x 205/70-14 and 1x 215/75-14 tyre on it. I swapped the odd one for another 205/70 but the speedo reads too low. I knew it would so I'll plug in a satnav and I'll see by how much. New 14in tyres are very expensive if you can find them over here but 15" and upwards are readily available. If I find some second hand I'll try them but I'd rather spend the money on bigger rims if I can.

I'd like to buy some new wheels for it but we have nowhere near the availability you lads have in the US. I have a set of racing style steel wheels sat in the garage, 7"x15 fronts and 8"x15 rears but the offset is too radical at -19 and -32mm respectively. I need some with near neutral on the rear to fit a decent tyre underneath without rubbing I reckon.

The original 6x 14" steel wheels didn't come with chrome hubcaps, the ones I've put on are from early 70's Jag XJ12, not ideal I know and I'm unlikely to find originals so these will do just fine until I can lay my hands on some bigger rims. An 8" rim easily fits so just a case of deciding on what diameter to go for.

I've seen 'smoothie' style wheels advertised in 15" and 16" and 'racing black' style in 15, 16 and 17" aswell. I'll search through the galleries to see what others running and on the web for ideas etc before taking the plunge.

oldcutlass

Great work on the car.

Charlie Jones

FrankieB ,
I thought you were talking about the center emblem .
Yes , the "rocket " is retained by two small steel fasteners that pop into the square holes .
The pins on the emblems push into those fasteners.
In your case , glue was probably the best idea .

As far as 15 inch wheels go , Almost any full size ( B and C body) GM car from 1949 thru at least 1977 ,with the exception of Chevrolet should fit on your hubs .
Chevrolet "big" rear wheel drive cars from 1971 to 1996 will also fit .
Chevrolet and GMC half ton trucks from 1971 up will also fit .

225 X 75 R15 or 235 X 70 R15 tires will probably most closely match the original tires in "revolutions per mile " .

Don R.

Frankie, I've used 15" and 17" wheels from the 1994 to 1996 Chevy 9C1 police car and Impala SS. 235-70-15 and 255-50-17 tires. Both fit with no problem but may not be easy to find overseas.

joe_padavano

To clarify:

Any Olds/Buick/Caddy full size through 1976 (except the 1964-66 Jetstar 88) used the 5x5 bolt pattern. Any GM B/C/D body car from 1971-76 used the 5x5 pattern. Any 1977-1990 GM full size car with HD brakes and suspension (all taxi/police, all C/D body cars, and all B-body wagons) used the 5x5. All 1991-96 B/D body cars used 5x5. All half ton pickups and full size vans with five lug wheels used 5x5. All Astro Vans used 5x5.

FrankieB

Thanks for the information regarding the larger rims, I didn't realise there were so many options of standard fitment 5x5" pcd and you're right, they're very thin on the ground over here. A few older British cars share the same stud pattern but none wider than 5 or 5.5" that I've ever come across and none anywhere near big enough for the car.

I've been keeping an eye on ebay and a couple of other selling sites but I've not spotted anything suitable yet although I'm hopeful I see some nice 7 or 8 x15s that will take a hubcap so as to keep her looking standardish. I'll give the couple of US car breakers we have over here a call to see if they've anything but I'm not holding my breath on it, I think I'll either have to buy some from one of the big wholesalers Summit etc, or ebay.com if the seller with post them to me and fork out for the delivery etc.

Anyway, it won't stop me enjoying the car over the summer and I'll carry on ironing out any niggles I come across, although having a reasonably accurate speedometer is something I'd like sooner rather than later. The UK is getting to be a particularily miserable place for the motorist as the government seek to impose penalty charges whenever they can. I imagine things aren't so different on your side of the pond.

Cheers, Frank.

joe_padavano

The 1977-1990 GM RWD full size cars with HD brakes (taxi, police, wagons, Ninety Eights, Electras, and Caddy Fleetwoods) came with 15x7 steel wheels with the 5x5" pattern. Unlike the Caprice 9C1 wheels shown above, the 1977-90 wheels do not have the circular holes, so they look much better if you have dog dish caps.

FrankieB

Thanks Joe, the 77-90 rims sound exactly like the ones I need. I like the ones with small holes around the edge, as in the photo Don kindly posted above, but I think I'd prefer the bigger version of the same style that are on it now if I can find them.

I'm going to my local dirt track tomorrow so I'll have a word with a few of the lads there and see if I can turn anything up. Now and again big American cars end up on the ovals over here and quite a few of the racers actively search them out for the big meetings. They go pretty well against our domestic stuff and are very popular with the spectators.