Seacar

Hey everyone,

Excited to be here and with the Olds family!

My 52 Super 88 has the original oil canister with cartridge filter which once I got it found it was leaking a little more enthusiastically than it should (or that I would like!). I did an oil change, replaced the cartridge with a new Wix one as well as the gasket, however it hasn't seemed to help. Once I fired it it started again.

It did it with the old gasket and canister, and is doing it again with the new one. At first I thought it was coming from the drain plug, but I can see its coming from around where the canister butts up on the housing and gasket. The bolt is tightened as far as it will go.

Anyone else have/had this problem and can I ask for input or opinions on fixing? I know of the spin off replacement systems, but I would like to try and keep this original at this point.

Thanks in advance!

redoldsman

You can get a conversion to a spin on filter for about $65.00 which I think is a bargain. I am sure somebody will disagree but that is my opinion and I am sticking with it. I like your car. Looks to be in very good shape.

oldcutlass

Make sure the area where the gasket seats is clean and that the canister housing is not deformed.

Seacar

Thanks red, its 2 previous owners only did the show circuit and have kept it off the rainy roads, it doesn't have any body rust beyond the usual undercarriage wear. Where do you get the spin off replacements you mentioned?

oldscutlass, thanks I thought I had done the gasket seat check, but I should probably go back and do it again just to make sure. As to the canister, I will have to check that as well, but nothing stuck out to me as being wrong when I removed it and cleaned it up. If the can and the gasket seat isn't mucked, what then? Could it be something with the spring at the bolt head end being weak??

oldcutlass

If I remember right the spring pushes the filter up. If the bottom of the canister where the bolt goes through has been crushed from over tightening it may not be sealing well.

Seacar

Hmm, I will have to check deeper into that spring/bolt relationship.....

1970cs

Put the canister on a piece of glass. Glass is very flat, you can also take a piece of 2000 grit sand paper and put it(flange side) on the glass with a little water and move it back and forth on the sandpaper to check where the hi and low spots are!

Pat

Seacar

Pat, thats an excellent suggestion. The glass should help tell pretty quick, but I guess the sandpaper will help a little more micro-inspection of the surface.

bassinguy

Are you sure that the old gasket was removed? I have seen where there were 2 gasket inside the housing where the canister fits. Older Chevys were bad for this. I think it is worth a look next time you remove the filter. Rick

1970cs

When moving it back and forth the hi spots will show as buffed or fresh metal and the low spots will show up as darker colored area!

I have used this technique on old tractors that oil filters leaked, namely Fords from 39-66. I also used this with Deutz air cooled diesels with their cylinders and heads using lapping compound between the cylinder and head to show any distortion.

Tedd Thompson

I have had problems with mine leaking also , I'm averaging about 50% of the time getting it right the first time. I find the gasket will move as you tighten it up and give a bulge in one spot or another. Sometimes I''ll reuse the old gasket if it is in good shape and flat just to eliminate this problem. Also tighten up the canister base gasket because it also will compress the over time it will and will weep, it's hard to see where oil is coming from when everything is wet....Tedd

Ozzie

Problems can happen when some of the "old" gasket remains stuck in its recess or when the seating surface has been gouged through cleaning with a steel tool. The shell is steel, but the base is aluminum. With the shell removed, carefully inspect the seating surface on the base. You might need a good light and mirror. Be sure the seating surface is clean and undamaged. If you must scrape, use a tool which is softer than the aluminum. When installing the new gasket use some anti-seize compound on both sides of the gasket. You will appreciate this on the next filter change.

Seacar

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tedd Thompson

Also tighten up the canister base gasket because it also will compress the over time it will and will weep, it's hard to see where oil is coming from when everything is wet....Tedd

Ok, so this would be another one I would like to add to my list because my sense tells me that its another possible avenue to fix. However, I am not sure I understand Tedd, this will be the gasket on the bolt head end of the canister? Inside or outside of it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ozzie

Problems can happen when some of the "old" gasket remains stuck in its recess or when the seating surface has been gouged through cleaning with a steel tool. The shell is steel, but the base is aluminum. With the shell removed, carefully inspect the seating surface on the base. You might need a good light and mirror. Be sure the seating surface is clean and undamaged. If you must scrape, use a tool which is softer than the aluminum. When installing the new gasket use some anti-seize compound on both sides of the gasket. You will appreciate this on the next filter change.

I hate to have to take the whole thing apart again (I have been procrastinating all week now) but yes, I am going to have to check that this is not the case. I would rather there just be an old gasket I missed as opposed to a scratched and scraped aluminum base.....stupid oil...

Seacar

And thank you to everyone for your time. Providing advice and support to a mongo whose just learning his way around the old cars can be taxing, so thanks for sharing your brainfo

Seacar

Ok, I removed the canister again this morning, cleaned the sucker out, checked the canister rim and cleaned and polished it up to smooth out the edge/gasket interface. Tried the flat surface trick and the canister looks good, no issues on that end.

On the mounting end I cleaned up the seat and ensured that there were no other old gaskets in there. It all seems ok....I cleaned up the gasket and re-oiled it lightly before seating it back in and then stuck the canister and cartridge back on. Once it seated I have it a little more and then left it. The last time I tightened it much more (not sure if over-tightening contributes to leaks??)

The only other thing I noticed is that there is a gasket on the bolt head end of the canister which looks a little crushed. As much as I would like to replace it, I am not sure of how to get the canister apart.

Didn't start it yet.....

Ozzie

After you do it for 50 years or so you won't need torque values to get it right, but for now here are the torque values from the Olds shop manual:

oil pan drain plug: 35-40 ft-lbs.
shell center bolt: 40 ft-lbs.
if yours has the drain plug on the base: 20 ft-lbs.

If all is right, those torques should make for a leak free connection. The best wrench is either a snug fitting six point socket or box end.

Seacar

Thanks Ozzie, I will go check the torque. Still have a number of years to go until I get up to the 50 year experience level!

Tedd Thompson

Seacar, sorry didn't get back to you I've been out of town for a while (still am).. The bolts I am referring to are the bolts that hold the base of the canister to the block not the cylinder part. The gaskets will sometime compress over a long time and began to leak/ weep and often a person can't tell what part is leaking....Just a thought ...Tedd

Seacar

Tedd, no problem thank you for the response, be safe.

I checked the bolts on the oil housing to the block and all is good there. I cleaned everything up, re-checked it and then gave her a start. Started up and immediately started a healthy pee of oil. Then I remembered to my chagrin that I didn't properly torque the canister bolt. Did that and.....

no leaking.....

*sigh* One problem down. Now on to the enigma which is the Rochester 4GC 4Jet Carburetor....

Ozzie

It may initially seem daunting, but like most other things it gets better the more you do it. Get a rebuilding kit. Be careful, as they used Rochester and Carter in those days. If the carburetor has encrusted deposits get some carburetor cleaning fluid to soak the parts in. If you can get an Oldsmobile shop manual for your car, do so and read it carefully. Get the correct tools. A proper fitting screwdriver is a good start. Flare nut wrenches are best on tubing so you don't round them and make more work. Some connections may be tight if they haven't been loosened in 64 years. Use two wrenches on tubing fittings. Proceed with care. If you think it is needed, make photos of the pieces before dis-assembly. If you're fortunate enough to still have the ID tag, don't discard it. There is important data on it. If you get stuck on something, ask the forum. There is plenty of knowledge here.

oldcutlass

Well done.

Seacar

Thanks everyone! I am feeling better about moving on now!

D. Yaros

I did a rebuild of my Rochester 4Jet. Had never done a carb before taking on this task. It was not as daunting as some would have you believe.

I documented my effort and you may find that helpful to you. You will find it here (when the "free web hosting service" is back on line) - Carb Rebuild

Seacar

Dave,

Thanks, I look forward to looking through it when it gets back off its coffee break. Its nice to have these kinds of things available, thanks in advance for doing the documentation.

D. Yaros

It is once again available, today, Tues. 13 May.