any opinions on what would be the best method of putting front windshield in ,also back window glass, should i use butyle tape ,or urathane in a tube , this is for a 65 starfire,thanks for any help ,will.

 

Any reason you don't just do it the way the factory did?

 

first address any rust issued w/ the pinch weld. if there is rust,get rid of it prime it and paint it. when ready to install w/s use a good coat of butyl tape primer and the butyl tape. If you can wait for a nice warm day or do it in a heated garage that would be best, you want the tape nice and tacky. I don't remember if you would need a 3/8" or 1/2" tape. Be sure to run the tape straight and watch as you make the turns for the corners. Start in at the center of the bottom and work in one continuous bead until you are back at the starting bottom point. Break the tape w/ about a 1/2" overlap and press together but keep the original form as best as possible.

be sure to pay attention to the location of the original tape. Keep the w/s warm and clean the new w/s very well (Windex works just fine) first and make sure it is dry around the edges.

it helps to have a "helper" one on either side, makes things easier. make sure your setting blocks (on the bottom) are in place to use as a guide for your location on the height. once the w/s is in place use firm pressure/slide your hand around the entire perimeter to make sure you have good contact. once you think you're done, you can use an air hose from the inside to check for leaks by blowing up and out w/ someone on the outside following w/ a bare hand. be sure to angle the nozzle directly toward the w/s and pinch weld.

I forgot to add, you do not want to hold the w/s or get finger prints on the area of the w/s that will come in contact w/ the tape. you need to hold the w/s around the edges. Don't let it sit or rest on the moulding clip pins. if you want to have someone on the inside to help support the w/s as you set it, that won't hurt.

 

Good advice! I also like to dry run the glass and put reference marks around it so it's easier to line up when installing. Also helps so you don't get your tape or caulk to far in so that it shows once the trim is installed.

 

hello, thanks all for the advice ,i will use the tape, the reason i did want to verify was that a glass installer ,a few years ago when i had the car all apart ,told me don,t use the tape it will leak,any way ,thanks will.

 

the pinch weld primer sets up rather quickly, but you don't need to feel as though you should rush, the last thing you want to do is drip into the car, so if you don't have a steady hand place a drop cloth over the dash and steering wheel.

the primer should come w/ a brush,usually it's attached to the lid. be sure to coat the pinch weld but you don't need to glob it on there. you want the primer tacky not wet when you are ready to start w/ the tape.

the tape should come w/ a waxpaper cover which stays on until you are ready to set the w/s. be deliberate when rolling the tape onto the pinch weld, making sure you get good contact but not squishing it or making "flat" spots, the corners will be the most difficult part, but you can tear the waxpaper cover to allow the tape to flow and make the radius.

this will sound silly but be careful of belt buckles, and the snaps and zipper on your pants or jacket when leaning over the fender and w/s area.

using a headgasket chisel works nicely when removing the old tape, once you get a section started, pull up and back w/ the old tape in one hand and working the chisel w/ the other. Just be patient and don't try to do it too fast or apply too much pressure or you could end up scratching the paint up the post or on the roof line. be sure the pinch weld is clean and all old crap is gone. you want a nice smooth surface.

good luck.

 

I used the 3M butyl rubber strip in a kit. I posted the part number etc. in a previous thread. I don't have the number handy but you can do a search.