67 Delmont fuel guage

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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 06:51 PM
  #1  
golden rocket's Avatar
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golden rocket
 
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From: Broken Arrow Ok
67 Delmont fuel guage

I have been working off and on with this for sometime. gage read past the full mark, with needle pointing into the area of the "hot" light on the gage. I pulled the gage, and with everything disconnected, needle still reads past "F". Even though it is not even installed in the instrument panel! I am at a total loss. Gage is original to the car, date coded 10-14-66, with build sheet showing assembly date of 10-17-66. Any ideas?
Old Aug 2, 2018 | 05:07 AM
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If the needle is reading past F with the key on and all wires connected, it means an open circuit between the gauge and the sender. If you hook power to the B+ side of the gauge and ground the sender side the gauge should read E.
Old Oct 17, 2018 | 04:12 PM
  #3  
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golden rocket
 
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replaced sending unit in tank, and that fixed the gage reading
Old Oct 17, 2018 | 04:42 PM
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Glad to hear.
Old Oct 18, 2018 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by golden rocket
replaced sending unit in tank
With what? I have a '67 Delta, and correct sending units aren't made for these cars.

Old Oct 18, 2018 | 06:58 PM
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golden rocket
 
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Originally Posted by jaunty75
With what? I have a '67 Delta, and correct sending units aren't made for these cars.
jaunty75, I bought a sending unit from Jurassic classic auto parts out of Florida. (www.jcap.com) Cost is about $118.00 plus shipping, to my part of Oklahoma it totaled $125.70, and came priority mail in about 3 days from order. A CAUTION is needed here: PICK UP TUBE IS ABOUT 3/4" TO SHORT, on my 25 gallon tank it took about 8 gallons in the tank before it came off the "E" mark. As an aside, they show the same sending unit and stock number and price for the 70-72 Buick LeSabre, Wildcat, and Electra, however these mount on the front (towards passenger compartment) of the Buick tanks, whereas the Olds mounts from the top of the tank. I let them know in an e-mail about the short coming on the Oldsmobile model, but didn't get a reply. While I had the tamk out I had it cleaned out, and from my previous experiences with "gas tank liners" I did not re-new the inside. I did vacuum out the inside of the tank after I got it back, for any left over residue. I also blew out the fuel lines, and replaced the inline fuel filter, and carb filter. (Rochester 2GC carb.). when I drive out the fresh fuel in the tank I will replace both filters after the next refill. The highest octane fuel I have been able to get locally is the non-ethanol 91 octane at the Conoco or Phillips 66 gas stations. so far, so good. Factory air cars require a dual (2 line) sending unit and fuel pump. According to factory shop manual this is so a small amount of fuel will be cooled and returned to the tank, non air cars have only 1 outlet on the sending unit and fuel pump.

Last edited by golden rocket; Oct 18, 2018 at 07:19 PM. Reason: additional information
Old Oct 18, 2018 | 07:34 PM
  #7  
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Thanks for the info. Very interesting.

That link you provided leads to an investment company website. Here's the correct link.

https://jcaparts.com/

I replaced the sending unit in my Delta with a Spectra Premium unit meant for a '72 LeSabre, just like you did. It's not the same in that it is not a canister unit. I talked a lot about it recently in this thread.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-question.html

It's not a perfect replacement because it is not baffled and neither is the fuel tank. That canister acts to dampen the sloshing of the fuel around in the tank and prevent the pointer from moving around as you drive. So my gas gauge waves at me a bit when I go over a bump or around corner, but it's far better than no gas gauge at all.
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