I have found my 70S sits 3/4" to the passenger side. I kind of noticed then really noticed it when it scraped the wider 275/60R15 tire on that side. No obvious frame damage. Everything looks tight except maybe some movement in the upper control arms. I will try replacing them this Winter. If this doesn't fix it, not sure where to go. Thoughts?

 

In addition to worn out bushings in the rear suspension, check to make sure the body is square on the frame.

 

I noticed mine was off slightly when i got it. Some investigation showed the car was hit right about in the drivers rear wheel. The axle on that side had a warped flange, the bearing had a cracked retainer, and the body was slighlty shifted over. I replaced the axle and bearing and realigned the one body mount that apparently caused a metal on metal squeak as i drove, but i havent replaced my body mounts and centered the body yet, it is on the list tho. I would say its 5-10mm offset, so not noticable at a glance but it is noticable when examined closely.

 

i AM GOING WITH THE FRAME TO BODY TOO. sEEN IT PLENTY OF TIMES...
Jim
JD

 

Well, crap what is the easiest way to move the body over on the frame? Does not sound good, sounds less than fun. The only space or play using a pry bar was on the upper control arm bushings. That why I was thinking of adjustable upper control arms and new rear shocks.

 

First see if the body is offset, you can easily check the body near the frame near the wheel arch check both sides see if its offset.

 

Did some measurements, pretty sure the body mounts will need loosened and the body will need shifted to passenger side, there is a 1/2 inch difference at least, side to side.

 

I would just try loosening the mounts a f giving the body a push, if you cars nicer maybe after loosening the bolts gently lift the body with acouple hyd jacks and slide it over

 

x2 That's an excellent idea.

 

There are pry holes and alignment points under the cowl area and the rear frame. You just loosen the body mount bolts and pry the body over. Measure the cowl area and check door to fender gaps when finished before you tighten it all back up.

 

The front is also further out on the driver's side, so maybe the body wasn't put on straight from the factory?

 

I would suggest drilling a tiny hole thru the floor, right above each body mount, and spraying PB Blaster or some other rust penetrate before trying to loosen them. I know it sucks drilling a hole into pristine floors (if your lucky enough to have spotless floors!) but if the cage nut breaks, it’s going to take a much bigger hole to fix!!

Loosen all the mounts (including the ones for the core support) and carefully try to square up the body to frame. Once your satisfied, slowly and carefully try to open the doors and hood. If you move the body and the core support didn’t move equally, they door/hood alignment will change. You could easily find paint flying off when the doors hit the fender.

I dropped a 9/16 impact swivel socket down inside the rocker area of my 69. I tried for 20 minutes to fish it out of there with a magnet. I finally decided just to loosen the 2 bottom fender bolts at the bottom of the fender. The socket fell out of the fender, all was well I thought. Until I opened the door and heard the crunch. I obviously didn’t get the fender back exactly where it needed to go. Even through it was a Snap On socket, I could have bought several sockets for what the paint repair cost.

 

Thanks guys, all good ideas. My floors aren't pristine, not horrible either, shooting penetrating fluid in drilled holes may help. Also no worries of damaged paint either, paint sucks.