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I’ve got a 71 type O rear (I believe) that I’ve had since I restored the car 15 years ago. It had been professionally rebuild. It’s always had a little wear on each side of the pinion yoke where the u-joint retainer rides that allowed the driveshaft to move slightly side to side. It causes a slight driveline vibration. I know that’s likely the vibration issue because a couple years ago I cleaned it up and used JB weld to fill the grooves on each side, sanded them carefully smooth, and reinstalled everything. The vibration went away for a season or so.
Today I took it apart and the JB Weld is gone (I’m not surprised). The groove that’s worn on each side is very small. I know the right way to fix it is probably to get a new pinion yoke but I’d rather not. Is there anything else that anyone can think of that would be good to fill the groove? I thought about hitting it in a couple spots with the MIG but I’m sure it’a cast iron so it probably won’t take and I’ll end up with more of a mess.
Last edited by allyolds68; Jan 2, 2021 at 04:16 PM.
That's actually not the pinion, it's the pinion yoke and can be replaced with little trouble.
thanks, yeah, I know I wasn’t referring to it correctly and I knew someone would correct me. I went back and fixed it.
i replaced one in my truck once. As I recall there was a crush washer that required some amount of “crushing”...lol. I don’t remember how much was required.
I guess if someone has a good pinion yoke, let me know and I’ll try that.
Last edited by allyolds68; Jan 2, 2021 at 04:17 PM.
The yoke itself does not need a “crush” washer, but the pinion does. The yoke just has a washer under the pinion nut. It is recommended to replace the pinion nut when replacing the yoke.
Hi Mike,
Try replacing the U bolts and the u-joint. (both with Spicer).
Some people will suggest "staking" the saddles and the U bolts, but that's a temp get-it-home fix.
Measure the joint cups to see if they are worn out as well?
Ultimately the yoke may need to be replaced. It isn't difficult and is a safer option.
If the joint cups are not centering in the saddles definitely replace the yoke and the joint, The joint cups should go into the saddles tight.
Thicker/thinner C clips can be purchased. The C clip dimension is customizable.<edit this only applies to external clip u joints where the E shaped clip is on the outboard end of the yoke>
You don't need to replace the crush sleeve if you do it right. There is a method, a feel, and a knack to it. Google it.
Always replace the seal after packing the backside with grease.
Hi Mike,
Try replacing the U bolts and the u-joint. (both with Spicer).
Some people will suggest "staking" the saddles and the U bolts, but that's a temp get-it-home fix.
Measure the joint cups to see if they are worn out as well?
Ultimately the yoke may need to be replaced. It isn't difficult and is a safer option.
If the joint cups are not centering in the saddles definitely replace the yoke and the joint, The joint cups should go into the saddles tight.
Thicker/thinner C clips can be purchased. The C clip dimension is customizable.
You don't need to replace the crush sleeve if you do it right. There is a method, a feel, and a knack to it. Google it.
Always replace the seal after packing the backside with grease.
On drivelines always use a dab of blue Loctite on clean threads and torque to spec.
Thanks Steve,
I don’t think these c-clip widths can be variable. They fit in a slot in the u-joint that’s a predetermined width. The outside to outside width between the c-clips corresponds to the inside width of the yoke. The c-clips appear to have worn these grooves into the inside of the yoke.
I forgot about Gevo. I’ve never used him but he’s obviously the closest as his shop is just north of Seneca Falls.
Just so you know, the O-Type was last used in 1970.
The yoke in your pictures has threaded holes, so that matches up with a 71-up 8.5" 10 bolt which uses straps and bolts to hold the u-joint as opposed to the O-Type that has unthreaded, smooth holes for the U bolt and nuts that hold the u-joint.
If you get a new yoke, you need to get the correct one for your rearend.
Just so you know, the O-Type was last used in 1970.
The yoke in your pictures has threaded holes, so that matches up with a 71-up 8.5" 10 bolt which uses straps and bolts to hold the u-joint as opposed to the O-Type that has unthreaded, smooth holes for the U bolt and nuts that hold the u-joint.
If you get a new yoke, you need to get the correct one for your rearend.
Nice catch fun71.
The straps will stretch and wear just like the U bolts. I also see crap on the surface where the straps should lay flat. If the strap doesn't have good clamping force it will allow cup movement. Any movement is obviously undesirable.
Try cleaning those surfaces with a flat-file just down to bare flat metal. Install new straps. You can take a few thou off both surfaces.
All this may be moot if the yoke dimension opened up on dimension #B10A(below).
Gevos or Dennys should be able to help as the corporate 71-72 rears have better support.
Note #B11 shows the U bolts.
I don’t think these c-clip widths can be variable. They fit in a slot in the u-joint that’s a predetermined width. The outside to outside width between the c-clips corresponds to the inside width of the yoke. The c-clips appear to have worn these grooves into the inside of the yoke.
.
Correct with this application.
I was in Ford mode that has the External clips. They come in various sizes. But you have to know to ask as it's not common knowledge. Spicer puts the middle fits all size Copper color clips in the box. There are several sizes up and down to dial in that dimension. They are color-coded to indicate the size.
Correct with this application.
I was in Ford mode that has the External clips. They come in various sizes. But you have to know to ask as it's not common knowledge. Spicer puts the middle fits all size Copper color clips in the box. There are several sizes up and down to dial in that dimension. They are color-coded to indicate the size.
So is that why the Dana u-joints for my Jeep come with three sets of clips that are different colors? I never thought to measure the thickness of the clips to see if they were diffferent.
Thanks for everyone's help. Especially Steve who reminded me that Gevo is five minutes from my house. I took the old yoke off and I'm picking up a used one from Gevo this week
Last edited by allyolds68; Jan 4, 2021 at 08:30 AM.
The whole Youtube series on U-joints by Weber State University is fantastic. Tons of eye-opening information. Part 7 is brief where they selectively install the appropriate thickness snap rings (Centering and Adjusting Axial Play). Worth viewing.
