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For the winter, Im breaking down the rear of my 1971 Cutlass S and re-doing the ring and pinion, Posi and all new bearings and seals etc. Disassembled everything and just now cleaning the differential housing up. It's a stock 10 Bolt, 8.5 rear, 28 splines with 2.56 gearing.
I found that appears to be a race or seal in the axle housing here and just need validation I'm accurate. Sometimes I get too much into my own head. This looks like a rear seal or race that is still stuck in there and needs replaced too.... Am I correct?
Below are pics of the Axle housing and the Axel that I just removed.
WOW- That is a Weird looking one alright
The bearing you have does NOT have a tapered bearing so it can not be the race to that bearing you have on the axle you have pictured. IT IS A ONE PIECE bearing...it does not come into piece like a tapered NEWER style bearing.
IF the car was running good with that style square barrel type bearing...REUSED IT ...you will never have a axle seal issue. THOSE WERE the good old non tapered GM bearings back in the day.
Eventually it will wear out of coarse...BUT use it as long as you can...because any seal thickness will work from .460 -.490 you are good. It can handle extra end play too.
IS that ' what you call a race tapered or is is parallel to the tube ID ?
it is possible the race got slammed into the housing tube? I guess??? BUT in the pic it still looks like the original ledge is there for the bearing to seat against is exsiting. This just looks like another something driven in too. ???
THAT is a weird tough one to figure.
AS you said if it works and does not cause an issue LEAVE IT ALONE
Jim Mitschke
JD Race
Jim,
Does that look like the original axle bearing? I remember the original retainers being that flat disk, staked-on style, but it's been since the 1980s that I've worked on one of those 10 bolt rears.
That is not really a sealed bearing; it is open around the ends so that oil can get inside. And the seal is on the outboard side of the bearing, near the wheel flange. The sealed bearing / inside seal (which is pressed into the end of the tube, and not on the axle shaft) is the earlier design that was dropped in 1970.
Jim,
Does that look like the original axle bearing? I remember the original retainers being that flat disk, staked-on style, but it's been since the 1980s that I've worked on one of those 10 bolt rears.
Yes those are the factory original bearings. I wish someone would make the bearings like these again! We would not have any issues with the end play cause a stress on the seal no matter what the seal thickness was....465 - .490 it would all work!
Because with the Factory bearing pictured there is NO up down play because of excessive end play. only end play The GM A9 bearing acts like a c-clip bearing when installed it will slide in the tube ever so slightly which is fine. few thous... MORE TAPERED BEARING HEADACHES. On PAPER the seem better But if any specs are off from manufactures ...LIKE the seal thickness thing were dealing with...Headaches.
Remember too your axle shaft could be out of spec too not running true.
You guys should try to find a MAchine shop and see what the run out is on your axles too.
Jim
JD Race
Appreciate the insight gentlemen. Fortunately, I don't have any issues with the axles. Bearings have very little slop and figured after 50 years it was time to replace the axle bearings with the work I'm already doing on the differential.
So, I have purchased Set 9 bearings to replace these - and I have the seals as well. My question is.... that Stop or Race whatever it is that I have my flashlight on in the axle tube that I pictured, do I need to pull that out or can I keep it in?
Thank you - I learn more on here day after day and love it!
As Jim said above, your original bearings are superior to the replacements. Keep the originals. If you need to replace them some time in the future, it's extremely easy to pull the shaft and do the work.
ok, well I guess what I'm hearing is to keep in there and keep using the bearings, even if original and are still good. I get the concept, "if ain't broke, don't fix it".
Just figured that since I already had it apart, I would update and refresh. So my take away here is, "throw it back together and let it ride" which I'm cool with, but if I need to change them in the future and replace those bearings, pull those "dang things" out too.
ok, well I guess what I'm hearing is to keep in there and keep using the bearings, even if original and are still good. I get the concept, "if ain't broke, don't fix it".
Just figured that since I already had it apart, I would update and refresh. So my take away here is, "throw it back together and let it ride" which I'm cool with, but if I need to change them in the future and replace those bearings, pull those "dang things" out too.
Yes, BUT they will only last for so long. 60 years later it is tough to keep them even sitiing in a housing they will go bad. Mileage, Rust from sitting, Weight on the bearing sitting in one spot too long etc.
January 17th, 2022, 08:51 AM
60 years later it is tough to keep them even sitiing in a housing they will go bad. Mileage, Rust from sitting, Weight on the bearing sitting in one spot too long etc.
