Why can't anyone help me? It is just a drive shaft. All these people offering measurements, but none posted yet. Just put the numbers out there for all to see and maybe I will get somewhere. It is amazing to me that no one has one to sell. Can anyone actually help me out there? By the way, I called the major parts suppliers (Olds specific) that we all use for re-pop and NONE of them could even discuss drive shafts to begin with. I have now gotten to the point where fun has ceased and pissed off is constant.

 

there cant be a short supply of drive shafts i cant imagine....just hang in there someone will come thru, you may want to try ROP if you cant find one here

 

There is not a local driveline place who can help you out? Or a junkyard to close to grab one from? Are you looking for factory length of did you modify drivetrain?

 

Patience grasshopper. This is the first posting I've (we've?)seen from you...This is sort of a self-help question...read on...
Factory installed Stick or Automatic? Theres a difference. I cant remember the lengths off the top of my lost head but if memory serves me...55.250" for Auto and 56" for stick.
Thats good info only if you know how this dimension is obtained. Google Dennys Driveshafts. They have a down loadable sheet which shows you exactly how to properly measure for a new shaft. Its not rocket science but you need the proper amount of slip yoke depth and joint series as well as what pinion yoke you have.
Id recommend a new shaft but a south or western bone yard would likely have one. The 68-69 two piece shafts have been known to fail "out-of-phase. If you have a Fleetpride driveshaft shop locally they can make a steel shaft a little cheaper than Dennys? Dennys is a great resource especially for aluminum.

 

I have drive shafts here. Will need to know what you want measuring center to center on the ears of the shaft. Driveshafts are pretty tricky because of all the different conversion u joints you will have to hunt down to make your yokes work with the shaft.

 

I bought a custom length from these guys in 3 days. You can specify U joint and yoke. Cost around $200.
http://southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_...ub=Driveshafts

 

Hello and thanks for the compliments. First, my name on here is Daniel because that is my first name. I actually go by Kyle which is my middle name. When I register for something and it says first name this is what always happens. Call me either, no worries.

Second, I want to apologize for my aggravated post as I spend all day doing customer service and then when I call places with simple questions I can’t get any in return I tend to get pissed. So, thank all of you for the concern over my driveshaft issue and I am grateful for all the help now and in the future.

 

What I am wanting is an original for correct purposes. I can get one made locally but it won't be "swedge" welded and is a straight tube not as original. The car is a factory 4 speed 1969 w30. The muncie I have is a 27 spline output. It should be 56" center of joint to center of joint, but I want one that GM made originally.

 

The Parts Place has them listed for $400. For that price they better be correct.

 

I have one that is 56" long out of a 69 442 4 speed. $200 shipped.

 

I just sent you a private message, as I want the driveshaft.....

 

I've got a 56" c to c drive line for my 68 Cutlass with a 4sp and on Jack stands with the rear end in droop with the shocks on I can't get the drive line in, to long. The yoke is into the rear seal on the trans. I can maybe get the rear end up and get it in but I'm not sure I would have enough yoke to slide in and out while going thru the travel. I think I need it 1 1/2 shorter, at least till I read this. What gives? Thanks again for the help.n

 

Many of them fit real close to bottomed out. I would slide the yolk all the way in and put a paint stripe on it and the seal. If your car is lifter up on stands you will have to lift the rear end with a floor jack to where it is almost to lift the car off the stands. With the rear end up you should be able to get the drive shaft in. When you get it in then lower the rear end (with the shocks bolted on) and check your paint strip. If you have a gap between the the strip on the yolk and the seal you are good. You will almost deffinatly have to lift the rear end to get it in. You do have the O type rear end and 4 speed correct?

 

Correct on the rear end. I haven't had a chance to do what you said yet but if I raise the rear end I should be able to get it in and then I should have about 1/2-5/8 clearance. I'm guessing that's enough. Thanks Eric...

 

My 70 442 has 1/4 inch gap with the rear end hanging. It gets wider as the suspension compresses (or with a jack raising the rear end).