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How would you install new bushings in the rear end housing? This nifty tool is available but don't want to purchase it for this one time. Can I do it with common garage tools? Maybe a ball joint tool?
The low-buck but messy way to R&R the bushings is to burn out the rubber with a propane torch then collapse the metal housing with a punch and sledge hammer. The new bushings simply get hammered in with an appropriately-sized socket or piece of pipe. I've done dozens of bushings this way. Do your rubber burning outdoors, however. The black smoke and gooey mess will stink up your garage for weeks (DON'T ask me how I know this...).
I wanted to give an update and thanks to Joe. I did'nt have a a socket big ehough I thought would work so.......
I installed my upper rear end busings over the weekend. UMI Performance is where I purchased my new upper and lower control arms. They were supplied from UMI with energy suspension instructions. Poly graphite? I don't know, don't care. Black in color with "specks" of something impregnated in them.
Observation:
The OD was measured with calipers at 1.855"
The ID of the housing ear was 1.845" a tight fit you might say.
I put the bushings in the freezer. Made sure the housing was clean, no burrs no paint and lubed. Pounded them in with a 3 lb. hammer with a block of wood up to the "step". Took a few whacks, but got them in. I will be using the enclosed thrust washers, (thick plastic). Supposed to control the walking side to side....yada yada....
I just installed my bushings two days ago and would like to add to above post. I used the same method, except I found my piece of wood...(old spruce two by four) absorbed too much striking power. Switched to a piece of "hardwood", and things went much better.Hope this may help someone.
anyway you can crush the bushing steel sleeve and usually a dead blow hammer works great. Air chisel has a bit for this also which really makes life easy but you said back yard right?? lol. so after you get them out deburr the ear inner diameter of everything paint rust and metal burrs from beatinging and pounding. then oil the out side of the bushing metal sleeve and the inner diameter of the ear and take a dead blow hammer and try to keep the bushing as straight as possible into the bore and when striking the bushing.
Why dead blow? It has shot and will have more driving force with less bounce back...your force goes into the bushing not into shocking the housing or your arm. Just keep controled blows and do not go over board. Usually the bigger dead blow the better.
IF it does not seem to go in or is tough you probably have the bush cocked a bit so try strikeing the bushing at different angles or edges that might free up the hang-up you might run into. Hope all these threads help you out.
Be confident but cautious too. Go for it and enjoy the hobby. Once you have accoplished the install you'll feel pretty good. Jim
They go in cocked with the wood and hammer. Makes u wanna buy or rent a bushing tool. Found a long bolt and some washers with nuts and going to try it this way here shortly. If not it’s the hammer til they get straight enough to go in correctly. Freezing the bushings helped, getting someone to hold it while I beat them in with. 3 lb dead blow hammer worked. Removing paint from inside of ears worked also. Thanks for help fellas
Last edited by Bee Saint Louis; Feb 26, 2025 at 10:35 PM.
A ball joint tool (big C clamp style) works pretty good, but things can fall on your head. Don't ask how I know.
If anyone reading is installing UMI Roto-joints, read the instructions carefully. Most importantly, pay attention to where the collar set screw lands. You want to be able to get an Allen wrench on it for wear adjustment.
The low-buck but messy way to R&R the bushings is to burn out the rubber with a propane torch then collapse the metal housing with a punch and sledge hammer. The new bushings simply get hammered in with an appropriately-sized socket or piece of pipe. I've done dozens of bushings this way. Do your rubber burning outdoors, however. The black smoke and gooey mess will stink up your garage for weeks (DON'T ask me how I know this...).
A few years ago I viewed a YouTube Video showing someone using a drill to bore through the rubber part of the control arm bushing, then forcing it around, in a router-like way, to remove enough rubber for the center, metal sleeve to come out.
With the center, metal sleeve out, and the majority of the rubber removed, the outer metal shell was easily collapsed and removed without much effort (or smoke!).
If I can find that video again I'll post the link.
I haven't used this technique, but it looked much more simple than what I had done in the past to get the old bushings out.
Go to your nearest plumbing store, buy a small piece of pipe just bigger in diameter than the bushing. Use a few large washers, some all thread, and a couple of nuts to pull the bushing into the housing.
There are lots of YouTube videos explaining the process far better than I can describe. A picture is worth a 1000 words.
A few years ago I viewed a YouTube Video showing someone using a drill to bore through the rubber part of the control arm bushing, then forcing it around, in a router-like way, to remove enough rubber for the center, metal sleeve to come out.
With the center, metal sleeve out, and the majority of the rubber removed, the outer metal shell was easily collapsed and removed without much effort (or smoke!).
If I can find that video again I'll post the link.
I haven't used this technique, but it looked much more simple than what I had done in the past to get the old bushings out.
This is the way I did it, but the rear was out of the car. I used a block of wood and a hammer to install the new bushings, there was no need to do any real prep they just tapped right in.
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