Mikes65

To go along with my 65 Cutlass convertable build I need some advice on the drive train numbers. I am going with a 383 stroker/405hp/440 tq with a turbo 400.The dyno curve on the motor shows about 420 tq at 2800. The 400 has a 2.48 first gear and a 1.48 second. The rear is a 3.08 posi and the tires are 225/70/14 that are 25.75 tall. Can you predict what kind of performance these figures will produce? Is a 2000 or 2400 stall converter recommended? I am looking for some fun on the street. I want it to hook up and go nice--no racing. I have not purchased anything yet so there is still time for changes. I am not TOO concerned with gas mileage but I think it should be considered. Thanks---

dan2286

Most people here will tell you to not use a Chevy engine in an Olds. If you want low end torque, a 455 will do the same thing.

redoldsman

About the only advice you will get from most of the guys here is to use and Olds engine. You can build a 455 for less than the 383 and it will outperform it. Somebody on one of the Chevy boards can probably give you the info you are looking for.

gearheads78

Your gear, trans and converter are all set up like you are putting a bbo torque motor in it. If you really care about performance and still want to use the Chevy you need more gear, converter, and tires. A 225-70-14 tire will be fine to cruise but will be worthless at the track. You are going to want a 3000-3500 converter and 3.42-3.73 gear depending on the cam and heads of the 383.

Olds64

If you want a fun car to drive then I suggest going with the Olds 307 or 260. That would give you better performance than any Chevy engine. With that 383 stroker you might win a race against Grandmother Jones in her 1987 Lincoln Town Car. Then again, if I were you I wouldn't get my hopes up.

70 cutlass s

There is nothing wrong with a 383 Chevy engine they can be a dependable engine if built to drive on the street. Granted it belongs in a Chevelle not a Cutlass. Gearheads78 is right about the gears and stall. If you tell me what size cam you have I can help you pick out what stall speed you need and what gear.

Mikes65

Thanks--here are the specs of the 383 I am considering.
Block:
4-bolt main block
Passenger side dipstick
Square and parallel decked
Align honed main bearing bore
Cylinders are sonic tested for thickness
Cylinders honed on a computer controlled machine to within .0002'' straightness and roundness Rotating Assembly:
SCAT 3.75'' stroke cast crankshaft
Chevy 5.7'' heavy beam rods with 150,000psi bolts
Keith Black hypereutectic pistons
Hastings Moly rings
Clevite bearings
Externally balanced rotating assembly
Melling high volume oil pump
Heavy duty double roller timing set Cylinder Heads:
GM Vortec cast iron heads
Hardened retainers and 1.25'' diameter valve springs
2.02'' swirl polished intake valves
1.60'' swirl polished exhaust valves
Hardened pushrods Camshaft Specs:
Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 234 Intake / 244 Exhaust
Lift: .487'' Intake / .508'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation: 112° Other Features:
Professional Products dual-plane satin aluminum intake
Chrome valve covers
Chrome timing cover
New 5-quart oil pan
Brass freeze plugs
9.5:1 compression Dress Model Adds:
Edelbrock 750cfm Carburetor
Edelbrock water pump
Edelbrock fuel pump
MSD distributor
MSD Coil
MSD spark plug wires
Braided fuel line Horsepower: 405

Mikes65

Also considering this 65 400 motor. Can any one tell what kind of HP/TQ this might put out? It has Comp cam roller rockers also.
Julian Date 166 (6/15/1965)
Block # 389298 B
Intake # 384439
Carb # 7025150 w/o a/c
LH exhaust # 389269 X
RH exhaust # 389268 W
Water pump # 384783
Distributor # 1111042
Heads code A 1965 Fullsize car
Engle cam # 2718H ep-18/20 hyd

The 383 has a warrantee and this does not.

Mikes65

Also--this is for a nice cruiser--no racing and I don't want to build a race car for the street. Decent off the line, nice all around performance and dependability are what I am going for. The 383 is sold as a street performance motor--not a track motor.

2blu442

The "B" block 400 engine was put in the 1965 442 only. That is a hard to find engine! If you just want a nice peppy driver I'd go with the 400 Olds engine. If the price is right, I'd at least buy the Olds 400 motor for trade stock! You could always re-sell or trade it for a 455. Hummmm, what part of the country are you in???
John

f-85

Mikes65

What makes this B block special? Or is it just rare?

70 cutlass s

I'm not going to tell you which engine to put in your car. I'm going to tell you after reading all the info that you posted on the engine. That with the 383 you will need around 3500 stall and 3.73 gears. If I was putting it in my car I would run 3.90 gear with a taller tire. Yes it will be quick off the line and would make a nice bracket car engine. I wouldn't use it for a cruiser.

Mikes65

Here are the specs on the cam in the 400;

Engle Cam
Lift @ 1.6:1 Duration lift Duration @ .050 Lobe
488 in 260deg .305 216 112 deg
496 ex 268deg .310 226

What do you think??

70 cutlass s

Ok that's a Muscle car cam. It makes power from 1800 to 5800 RPM. A stock converter would work with it, but a 2000 to 2400 stall converter would work better with it. 3.08 with a stock size tire would work, but 3.23 would be better. Wouldn't need any lower than 3.42 gears.

joe_padavano

Actually, the A heads were used on all big block Olds motors in 1965, 442s as well as full size cars.

They were one-year-only castings used in the 1965 442.

507OLDS

You might even consider an early 350 Olds.You can make great torque & HP with those as well,& since your 65 came with a 330,all of the dimensions are the same,so it would be the easiest swap.

"IF" you go with the 383,I would build it more like an RV/towing application,where it has a bit more low-end torque,& lower HP range,& better cruiseability.That way,you could match something up with your 3:08's,& a 2000 stall converter.

Mikes65

So does this 400 have windowed mains? is it a direct bolt up to replace the 330, mounts etc?

Run to Rund

First , the cam you have in mind for the Chubby engine is much bigger than what you plan for the Olds 400. That is a mistake if you want 400 HP. With a cam in the 240 degree at .050" range for the Olds, it can make 400 HP. The Olds will give more torque and as good a top end HP easily. An Olds 350 can be built to do well, 350+ HP also, again go at least 230 deg. at .050, if you don't need a smooth idle. The 400 does not have windowed mains. the windows were used as weight savings on smoggers from around 1977 on. You can see a lot of high HP builds on www.realoldspower.com to give you some ideas. Please don't put a Chubby engine in your Olds. That is like having a fungus on the roses.

507OLDS

The smallblock 403 has windowed mains,along with the 350's of the mid-70's-80's. None of the bigblocks had windowed mains,& none of the 330's & early 350's had windowed mains either.

Mongoose

That 400 will make 380-420HP (as you described it) with a set of headers and nice intake/carb like you're eyeing on the 383. It'll also make quite a bit more torque, which is what really makes for a great street car that you can get a stoplight thrill out of. And like was said previously, adding a converter with a mild stall will immediately put you in the torque band and not give you problem with <5mpg mileage and overheating that you have to be concerned about with a higher stall converter.

Think there are a lot of people on this forum that tend to prefer/suggest going with the rocket instead of the bow tie? We're kind of partial... and protective of our heritage.

Mikes65

Mongoose--Thanks. I understand the frustration of the olds lovers. I would prefer to keep it all olds but it always comes down to dollars and cents. If I had an unlimited budget I would not think twice about it. I love my Olds too!! I have had it for 23 years now--longer than my wife!
It is a "life long love affair" Hopefully I can work out a deal on this 400 and all will be well. As stated above this 400 is from a private owner--no warantee and the Chebby comes with a 30 month 50k mile warantee. The 400 was rebuilt 2 years ago and has been sitting. Any worries there??

dan2286

Can you give specifics on the warranty? Those aren't always as good as they seem.

70 cutlass s

A lot of machine shops will offer a warranty on engines they build. You can bring them a core. They build it you get the engine you want with a warranty. Call around to all the local machine shops ask them about it.

Mongoose

Has the 400 been used, or just rebuilt 2 years ago? And is the 383 new or used? There is always value to a warranty, as it's an insurance plan that is meant to offset repair costs in the event repairs are needed. The intrinsic value of that insurance is going to vary from person to person based on their skill set and desire (to do their own repairs). Theoretically you could negotiate with the seller to buy something without a warranty at a reduced price, then you can compare the $$$ savings with the intrinsic value of the buyer to determine whether it's worth it nor not.

If the BBO has not been used, then there is nothing wrong with the rebuild having been done 2 years ago. Do you know when the 383 was built? Is it a crate motor from GM? No telling how long that's been built either. But like I said, IMHO, as long as it hasn't been driven in the past the length of time that its sat since it was rebuilt is pretty irrelevant.

Mikes65

So After much consideration and trying to buy the 400 which fell through and then another... I finally decided to go with the 383 after all. Not the same one I spec'd above but one with a little less cam. 229 in 230 out .It also has alum heads instead of the cast iron vortec heads and a lower torque curve for more lower end torque. Advertised at 420 hp/450 torque. Now I need some advice on the frame portion of the motor mounts. The chevelle used some sort of L shaped stand off that moved the motor forward a little. Anyone know if I will need these or if my original 330 frame mounts will work? Anything else I need to know to get this mounted in correctly? I am still going with the 400 trans.
FYI--the 383 was over $2000 less than the quote I got to build up the 330 to around 400hp. I know....I get what I pay for and now I will live with it. I can only hope for the best.

gearheads78

Chevelle frame mounts and you will be fine

Mikes65

Thanks----