Al Graaf

Was checking with you guys to see what color or finish the drive shaft is suppose to be? 71 442. In a list a came across it says steel or aluminum finish. Also, while I'm asking, what about the color code stripes I've seen in several pictures on the shaft? Indentification I'm sure.
As always thanks. Ejoying 45 and sunny in Kentucky-should be snow, ice and 10 degrees. Probably get hammered next week
AL

mrolds69

I think they were natural, anything like aluminum, SS paint or cast finish should be ok. Mine is Stainless Steel paint, I think...I forgot what I used. Any grey is better than rust. The stripe colors were in the Inspector's manual. Most have 2 stripes, about 1/2" wide, 1/2" apart. They were used by the assembly line workers to ID the shaft. Colors might be in the assembly manuals...but not 69.

Rocketbrian

Al: I used Krylon chrome paint. Everyone who has looked at it thinks I polished it well, and didn't realize it was a paint, which is the ultimate compliment. It mimics the look of bare steel. The stripes should be yellow and green, based on the Assembly manual. I was able to see the markings on the shaft, with the forward one about an inch wide, and the second one about 3/4". Now the only thing I couldn't determine was, what came first, the yellow or the green. I guessed that it was described as one yellow and one green , so I presumed it would be from the front, yoke end. The yoke I did with cast iron paint. I think it looks pretty good, if I do say so myslf. Brian

costpenn

That driveshaft looks really great - do you know if the paint stripe chart for 71 is the same for 72? I cant find it in my AM - it's for a MT 455 vert.

Rocketbrian

I don't have a 72 assembly manual, sorry. However, if it was a 71, the shaft would have one red stripe for a 112" wheelbase car, with an M20-M22 standard transmission. Would the 72 assembly manual be on the Wild About Cars website?

TK-65

Another way to go is to sand it down. Either take it to a U joint shop, mount it on the balancer and pull a piece of emory against it while it is spinning. I just sanded mine starting from 80 grit until I got it to shine. I then shot it with clear.

undercar2.jpg

Rocketbrian

That's a much better way, it all looks beautiful. I got part of the shaft shiney from sanding, but not the rest so I went to the paint method.
I've got to ask you about your floor color. Both my 71's have a semi-gloss reddish primer color but I have yet to see anyone try to duplicate the color. Everyone goes with black. What did you use? We're you duplicating the factory finish? Thanks.

Al Graaf

AH-HA! I finally see where your sign came from. I love it. Was going to ask you about your avatar. Thanks so much for the very informative pictures and input. It looks great. Can't wait to start mine this weekend. Again, thanks!
AL

Pacecar

The 1970 assembly manual gives the drive shaft color markings based on the wheel base 113 or 116 inches. Plus model 4800. Can anyone tell me what wheelbase a Cutlass Supreme convertible would be ? or its drive shaft markings

thanks

Pacecar

The 1970 assembly manual lists a group 35M38 and a group 35M40. Which listing is the one for a 350 TH trans ? thanks

Rocketbrian

M38 is the Turbo Hydramatic 350 and M40 is the Turbo 400 tranny. The convertible and two doors have 112" wheel base and the four doors 116".

Pacecar

Thanks for the help. Hope mine comes out as nice as the one's shown

Allan R

The driveshaft info for the 72 is on page (section 4) 100 of the Assembly Manual. From what I can see the 112 M38 would have color bands as follows: (1) Black (1) Yellow. The M40 would have (1) Yellow (1) Green bands. The alignment marks for the propeller shaft correspond to a white mark on the differential assembly.

oldzy

Yep, need to 'clockwise' each PDF file when opened to view normally (SHIFT+CTRL+PLUS). At least they are nice and clear and online though.

Allan R

Ken, you are a genius! I've wondered how to do that for a long time. Thx for the great tip
Oh, BTW I found that when I did that, it 'corrected' every page in the link I was viewing; not just the single one. EDIT: never mind I just re-read "each pdf file" - got it!

oldzy

No prob. Took me a bit also. Should note that SHIFT+CTRL+PLUS (or View -> Rotate View -> Clockwise) is for Adobe Acrobat Reader ('Adobe Reader X' is the new name). Will likely be diff in other PDF readers.

cutlassgal

Those sure are some purty driveshafts, lol! Someday, when I win the lottery, (I have to buy another Olds to show while Teepo is being restored, lol) Blue will make Teepo's underneath look like that!!

TK-65

I painted the bottom with DP90LF, shot a flat clear over it then shot overspray on the floor pan rocker areas. The red is the body colored overspray you see in the photo.

oldzy

What does Group '4A4' include? Just the TH350?

costpenn

Thanks for the link. I bought my copy of the 72 AM from some outfit called Millenium Industries off of EBay. turns out that it's missing quite a few pages!!!!

Allan R

I was wondering the same thing. Can't find the reference elsewhere in the 72 AM. Maybe will check the 70,71 and see what's there.

Same hardcopy I have. Don't be concerned about 'missing pages'. This is the same manual you will find on the WAC website - it's a straight across scan. I like having both. The hardcopy works for me in the garage. The e-file on WAC I like because I can enlarge the pics to see details. (when you already wear bifocals that's a big +)

oldzy

Interesting. 1971 includes '35M38' whereas 1972 does not.

1971


1972

Allan R

That is so strange. I didn't think GM or Olds could make a 'mistake' like that . Both model years *should* be identical......

oldzy

So... I should have a purple nurple shaft? oh ya

Allan R

It's logical. So what color of purple or does it really matter? This sounds like a pretty easy project to drop the driveshaft, replace the U joints and clean up the shaft. Whattaya thinks? A day or 2?

oldzy

Purple Nurple color I reckon.

The shaft is already out and hanging low, so should not take too long for the task.

Allan R

Just need a confirmation. When you took the shaft out it looks to me like there's just 4 bolts holding the diff/shaft collar. Once those are out you just wiggle / pull the yoke end out of the tranny? Hope I don't drop it on my noggin.

oldzy

Yep, just 4 at the rear. Just tap the rear joint lightly with a hammer on each side to loosen from rear end pinion yoke thingy... then the whole thing just slides out easy from the transmission.

I still can't figure out how to remove the u-joints though. Need to before getting it blasted. Too lazy to look in the manual. Will prob just take it to a shop and have them removed.

Allan R

Thx Ken! The u-joints come out with a drift. Think about getting a replacement u-joint that can be greased. Have a look at this guys DIY how to vids. They are great http://www.ehow.com/video_2328175_re...ive-shaft.html There are indexing marks on your drive shaft and a line up mark on the pinion seat for the driveshaft. It's all in the CSM and AM IIRC

Al Graaf

Eh Allan-good to see your still giving good advice, as always. Haven't been on here lately-seems all of a sudden I have gotten extremely busy with work (remodeling contractor in central KY-Lexington. Miss "talking" to everyone and reading the posts. But I'll be back! And will take no prisoner!
Going for a Sunday CO fix
AL Graff

Allan R

I was thinking about you the last couple of days. Missed your cheerful input. Look forward to seeing what you're up to. Work is work - gotta take it when and where it happens. Hope you're making some good coin to pay for that resto in progress.....