Correct Bearing and Seal? - Monzaz?

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Old Apr 3, 2026 | 02:29 PM
  #1  
VI Cutty's Avatar
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From: Vancouver Island, Canada
Correct Bearing and Seal? - Monzaz?

@monzaz My driver side axle seal seams to be leaking again...had an issue with it when I first got on the road last year, reseated the seal and it seemed fine for the rest of the season although there was a small accumulation of gear oil on the inside surface of the rim. Took the car out for a drive a few days ago, then had it up on the hoist yesterday and noticed a bit of gear oil accumulating at the bottom of the brake drum. Pulled the drum, brake shoes are clean and no real sign of leakage, but I'm assuming the axle seal is still not functioning at 100%, so I want to replace the seal. (Long story told in case someone has other suggestions I should look at!)

1970 Cutlass with a 1972 Buick GM 10 bolt rear end. Bolt in Moser axles, originally built with Timkin SET9 bearings and 712146 seals provided by Monzaz. I've been able to get an SKF BR9VP bearing and SKF 16735 seal through the jobber I work at, and just want to confirm that these are compatible with my rear end. I've heard of some "replacement" parts not quite matching the correct specs.

Local shop is going to re&re the bearing for me on Tuesday. If the bearing isn't damaged in the process, we'll reuse the one that's on there now and the SKF one will go to the spare parts shelf.

Last edited by oldcutlass; Apr 3, 2026 at 03:10 PM.
Old Apr 4, 2026 | 09:42 AM
  #2  
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If the seal worked fine for awhile, you likely had the correct parts but had something damage the seal causing premature failure. When you get the axle out to replace the seal, make sure the sealing surface of the axle is nice and shiny with no nicks or grooves. Polish as required. Wet (pre-lube) the seal and axle sealing surface. Reassemble carefully to avoid any damage to the new seal. This is important for seal longevity.

Last edited by JohnnyBs68S; Apr 4, 2026 at 09:46 AM.
Old Apr 4, 2026 | 10:00 AM
  #3  
VI Cutty's Avatar
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Originally Posted by JohnnyBs68S
If the seal worked fine for awhile, you likely had the correct parts but had something damage the seal causing premature failure. When you get the axle out to replace the seal, make sure the sealing surface of the axle is nice and shiny with no nicks or grooves. Polish as required. Wet (pre-lube) the seal and axle sealing surface. Reassemble carefully to avoid any damage to the new seal. This is important for seal longevity.
I had the axle in and out multiple times when I was assembling things and quite likely did something to the seal in the process. I know I had the correct parts initially, just trying to confirm that the replacement parts I intend to use will do the job too.

I'll check out the other items you've mentioned too!
Old Apr 6, 2026 | 05:44 AM
  #4  
monzaz's Avatar
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From: Richfield, Oh
Originally Posted by VI Cutty
@monzaz My driver side axle seal seams to be leaking again...had an issue with it when I first got on the road last year, reseated the seal and it seemed fine for the rest of the season although there was a small accumulation of gear oil on the inside surface of the rim. Took the car out for a drive a few days ago, then had it up on the hoist yesterday and noticed a bit of gear oil accumulating at the bottom of the brake drum. Pulled the drum, brake shoes are clean and no real sign of leakage, but I'm assuming the axle seal is still not functioning at 100%, so I want to replace the seal. (Long story told in case someone has other suggestions I should look at!)

1970 Cutlass with a 1972 Buick GM 10 bolt rear end. Bolt in Moser axles, originally built with Timkin SET9 bearings and 712146 seals provided by Monzaz. I've been able to get an SKF BR9VP bearing and SKF 16735 seal through the jobber I work at, and just want to confirm that these are compatible with my rear end. I've heard of some "replacement" parts not quite matching the correct specs.

Local shop is going to re&re the bearing for me on Tuesday. If the bearing isn't damaged in the process, we'll reuse the one that's on there now and the SKF one will go to the spare parts shelf.

These seem to be a go..... I have used that 16735 seal and they seemed to be the old style ...BUT again I have not bought in about 5 years ...as when I find some that are good i buy quantity so every NEW run has to be checked for thickness. The best way out of this A( deal is to try and find .....NON TAPERED BEARINGS... like old original GM .
Jim JD Race
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