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I was looking at getting a set of these for my '72 Supreme, but my rear axle housing has no place to mount them. I know it's the factory original, so are some different than others?
I was looking at getting a set of these for my '72 Supreme, but my rear axle housing has no place to mount them. I know it's the factory original, so are some different than others?
No, they are all the same. Go and look at your axle again, the bump stops should be there.
Here’s a pic of my original 1971 rearend, which is exactly the same as your 1972 rear.
And this is my 1970 rear. As you can see, all GM rears of that era have the same bump stops.
And I have to ask, why are you looking to replace them? As seen in the above pictures, two different originals are still in good shape since they should never contact anything unless you are driving off-road on some gnarly terrain.
No, they are all the same. Go and look at your axle again, the bump stops should be there.
Here’s a pic of my original 1971 rearend, which is exactly the same as your 1972 rear.
And this is my 1970 rear. As you can see, all GM rears of that era have the same bump stops.
And I have to ask, why are you looking to replace them? As seen in the above pictures, two different originals are still in good shape since they should never contact anything unless you are driving off-road on some gnarly terrain.
Apparently a PO removed them, cuz they aren't there.
didnt you have some kind of traction control setup on there before?
I'll post pics tomorrow. The mounts are there but the rubber stops are gone, and the same guy that took them off also upgraded to boxed LCAs and lowered the mounting position on the rear axle.
..... but my rear axle housing has no place to mount them. I know it's the factory original, so are some different than others?
......The mounts are there but the rubber stops are gone
I'm having trouble following all this, anyone else?
Looks like in a previous life your Cutlass was a drag car? I guess if you want to be original you'll have to change those lower control arms back?? This is interesting, I've been following.
Those are the "Southside Machine" style lowers, marketed now by Lakewood and possibly others. They work very well at the drag strip on our A-body cars.
Looks like in a previous life your Cutlass was a drag car? I guess if you want to be original you'll have to change those lower control arms back?? This is interesting, I've been following.
Nope..won't be changing them out, but I don't like parts to be missing...that's why I'm getting the bump stops.
Those are the "Southside Machine" style lowers, marketed now by Lakewood and possibly others. They work very well at the drag strip on our A-body cars.
That would explain why she hooks up so good off the line...hardly any wheel spin. Not that I've taken it to the track mind you, but I've done more than a few red light pulls off the line😀
If originality is an issue I'd look for good, useable OEM rubbers because I found the repops are no where close to factory issue ones.
And so you were right...here's a couple of "side by side"pics with OEM on the left and repops on the right...notice the ribs and the difference of thickness on the 'barbs"...
I'd be more concerned with the LxWxH comparison; as long as the barb can maintain a grip in the slot you are ok. It is the overall size that i had problems with when I ordered several years ago.
Is there a trick to putting these in? I just tried for 1/2 hour on one side and no joy. Also, do I really need them?
I didn't say anything earlier about the pain of installation as you seemed very intent on having these. As said above, you gotta lube them, then force the rubber tab through the slot in the metal. It may be easier to try pulling them through as that will distort the rubber in the "right" direction so it's thinner while trying to go into the slot, as opposed to pushing the rubber which makes it bunch up and become fatter. Or maybe start on one end and use a tool to push the rubber flap (the part that holds the insert into the slot) through the slot, then work along the length pushing the rest of the rubber flap through. Doing this while the rubber is warm may make it easier that if the rubber is cold (and hard).
As for do you really need them, I think probably not unless you expect the suspension to bottom out (off-roading and the like).
(1) Begin with very warm rubber (heat in oven preferably as opposed to a heat gun);
(2) Slide/Pop in one side of the rubber tab(s) (as opposed to both sides simultaneously) employing a screwdriver (like you might a shoehorn) - tugging/forcing the one side in & as far as possible towards the outboard side as it will go; and,
(3) Employing a screwdriver or similar device as a "shoehorn", or as a "pinch" - force the opposite (remaining rubber tab side) into the slot with force.
I'm trying to understand why you put in the effort of attempting to install them if in fact you can't because evidently the brackets for the boxed control arms preclude installation.
I'm trying to understand why you put in the effort of attempting to install them if in fact you can't because evidently the brackets for the boxed control arms preclude installation.
I'm trying to understand why you put in the effort of attempting to install them if in fact you can't because evidently the brackets for the boxed control arms preclude installation.
That was my point Norm...lol. (See my post #22 above)
Repositioning that combination valve is not that big of a deal. If it's not functioning correctly, you need to address this. Just get your head around it. I'd buy a new combination valve, buy some new brake line tubing, buy the combination valve kit to mount the combination valve under the master cylinder (easiest most likely), adapters of the correct size and a new brake line bender tool. You could mount the new combination valve anywhere - that's your call. I certainly wouldn't spend time on what is stock and not stock especially in terms of location(s). Let's face it, many things about your car are not stock; but fix that combination valve buddy. You realize that is a safety issue correct?
Repositioning that combination valve is not that big of a deal. If it's not functioning correctly, you need to address this. Just get your head around it. I'd buy a new combination valve, buy some new brake line tubing, buy the combination valve kit to mount the combination valve under the master cylinder (easiest most likely), adapters of the correct size and a new brake line bender tool. You could mount the new combination valve anywhere - that's your call. I certainly wouldn't spend time on what is stock and not stock especially in terms of location(s). Let's face it, many things about your car are not stock; but fix that combination valve buddy. You realize that is a safety issue correct?
There is a specific lube used at the factory to install all rubber bumpers like these. I have a tube at home, but am on snow duty at work at the moment, so can't tell you any details. Stuff is amazing! If no one has posted it by the time I get home, I'll do so.
