I found a 68 Chevelle rear end and I was wondering if it would fit in a 64 Cutlass? Its a posi with 3:73s complete drum to drum, is it worth $500???

 

Yes it will bolt up, it's slightly wider but not by much. I don't remember for sure but think it's one inch, so a half inch on each side. Unless your pushing the limit on wheel width you shouldn't notice any problems. If the rear end is good I believe that's a very good price. My 2 cents.

 

Depending on the wheels and tires you're running you could run into fender clearance issues. The older cars are much tighter in the wells than the 68-72 bodies.

I want to say it's an inch and a half wider. I also don't know if there are any alignment issues or not with the control arms.

 

I ran a 68 A body rear in my 64, it bolted right in.
It is a bit wider, if you stick with factory rally wheels with alot of negative offset you'll be happy.
I just installed a direct fit MOSER 9" in the 64, it is the factory width and my 70's era 14x7" Torq-Thrust wheels clear the wheel wells easily.
The housing, axles and seals run about $1000.00 then you need a cnter section, I rebuilt a used one with a new posi unit and gears for around $800.00. It's alot more cash, but it should e the last rear end you'll ever have to buy.
Also, check out ECI Brakes for the front end, they have a narrow track disc conversion kit that moves the front wheels in 1", each side over the later 68-72 disc's and 1/2" in ove the stock drum set up, allowing for wider wheels and lowering the front end with out interference.

 

It seems like Im going to go with the Moser rearend, Im just the type of person that likes doing things once.So, Would I just need to get a Ford 9in center section and put it in the Moser housing or would I need to find a used Moser center section?

 

Talk to Doug at QuickPerformance.com. He has good advice and reasonable prices.

 

Bringing this back to life.

Found a 1969 Chevelle 12 bolt with posi and 3.73's!


Will this bolt up to my 1969 Cutlass S? I have very little room, will it be wider than the Factory axle?


Thanks!

 

Direct swap. No mods required.

 

I believe you'll need a different U-Joint, but that's not a problem. Other than that I agree with Randy that it's a bolt in swap. I have a 1971 Chebby 12 bolt in my 1970 442 and I went to NAPA auto parts store for a U-Joint with two caps for the Olds driveline, then the other two caps for the Chev yoke on the rear end. John

 

But as far as width, will it affect me? Or is it the same on a newer body. Because Im already pushing it with my MT Streets on the back

 

Width is the same. I do know a guy that used an earlier housing from I believe 1964-67 because they are about an inch narrower. That gave him the needed room. John

 

Sorry, that is not correct. In addition to the 68-72 axles being about 1.5" wider, the spring mounts on the housing are different, as are the lower ends of the springs. You would need to use the springs that match the housing (68-72 springs). Also, the Chevy 12 bolt has a different pinion flange to axle centerline dimension from the Olds axles, which MAY require a different length driveshaft.

 

Joe, if he's putting a 1969 Chevelle rear into a 1969 Cutlass S wouldn't the width and springs be the same? I thought the springs that bolt onto the housing ended in 1967. And I thought all A-bodies used one width from 1964-67 and then a slightly wider width from 1968-72. I didn't think about the driveline length being different, but can see how that may be possible. John

 

That's what I was saying. From a 69 Chevelle to a 69 Cutlass is a direct swap. Not I didn't take into account the driveshaft length. That should be checked and the U-joint may need to be swapped.

 

I think Joe thought that you were talking to the OP

 

Yes, sorry. The original question was about putting a 69 Chevelle axle into a 64 Cutlass.

 

So does anyone know of a direct swap axle? I really want posi, this peg leg aint working!

 

Bolt in the same yes but I am not sure if there is a u-joint difference or not.