Came across a 1980 Cutlass with a V6 (my cutlass has the 260).

Is it worth swapping if the V6 has 2.41 or 2.56 gears?

 

It depends on if the swap has a posi or not.

If no posi, just swap the gear set in you current rear. 2.41 are small

 

The only 7.5" swap I recommend is swapping it for money at the scrap scales.

 

^^ Do they scrap good? Can I scrap it?

 

Uhm, swapping what, for what?
Your goals are unclear.
You have a baby V8 and want better mileage?

 

In all honesty, that 260 is a dog (which you probably know). The V6 is likely the Buick 231 which is a good little engine. Are you looking at changing the engine or the rear gears? At a guess I'd suggest your 1980 already has 2.41 or 2.56 gears since it has a 260. Only thing I'm not sure of is whether the V6 will be a direct bolt up to that TH200. If you do pull the V6 make sure to take the engine mounts too.

 

I though the 6 cyl engine in 79 was the 250 I6 not a 231 V6

 

Pretty sure the 3.8L was the 231. Engine code was C

 

This is a weekend cruiser, just looking for a bit more response.

 

Allan:

Yes, the 260 is a lazy dog. A dog that needs to be motivated!

I am looking at changing the rear. The yard gave me a price of $50 drum to drum. It now seems I might just swap out the whole rear for that price.

 

Redog:

1976 was the lasy year for the 250 I6. The junk car has a 231 V6.

 

Hey, for 50 bucks, I'd get it just for extra parts. The yards out here ask 200.

 

As Joe mentioned that's a great price for a full diff. Swapping out is actually not that hard either. Just make sure it's got decent brakes and check the diff fluid. While you're changing the fluid you can verify the ring gear and pinion count to find your ratio.

 

For pre-1970 cars, that is the average price around here.

This yard is one of those pick-a-part where the inventory changes quickly.

 

Main factor here is weather, on Wednesday it reached 64 degrees. It will be mostly around freezing here for the next week or so.

 

Yeah - It was 64 here too on tues. - now 10 with a wind chill of -4!!!
Get ready!!

 

Most of those pick n pull will keep the inventory for around 30-50 days so it should be ok to wait till warmer weather. Too bad they won't let you use air tools in the yard though. Getting some of those control arm bolts loose you might need some heat.

 

Sounds brutal Rickman!

 

Allan:

Sometimes I can give the "torch guy" some cash to cut some bolts. Depends on his work load.

I think it cost me $20 to have a floor pan cut out a few years ago.

 

How hard is it to just get the gearing setup out, if I decide to not get the whole rear?

 

It will take you a bit of work especially if you don't have room to work with. You'll need something to drain the differential oil into and that stuff is smelly. I don't know if the axles in 79 were bolt in or C clip so the next thing would be to take the axles out and then undo the retainers for the carrier. Keep them properly indexed (scratch one with L so you know) They also have arrows pointing 'outward'.
To remove the pinion you need to drop the drive shaft and remove the pinion collar, nut and seal and press the pinion out. Sometimes a BFH works if you don't have a press. If you use a hammer to beat the pinion out, make sure you keep the nut on the pinion shaft so you don't mushroom it. Bang! loosen nut a turn or two, Bang! and so on. The pinion is in there pretty tight which is why I suggested pressing it out. You could likely get a machine shop to gut it for you in less than 1/2 hour for a few bucks?

 

For all that work, I am better of just taking the whole differential.

 

I agree