New to the Cutlass way of life, and have questions

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Old October 14th, 2008, 02:45 PM
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72 Olds Cutlass
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Cool New to the Cutlass way of life, and have questions

My loving husband bought me a 1972 Olds Cutlass last November, and the stock 350 is old and tired. We have a rebuilt 455 ready and waiting to drop in, and I have a TH-400 that will marry to the 455. Would anyone happen to have a list of what the engine swap would intale?
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Old October 14th, 2008, 04:06 PM
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There has been a lot of discussion on engine mounts. On the 455, You can keep your 350 engine frame mounts as long as you use 350 rubber engine mounts to go with them (i.e. don't need to spend $150 on new 455 frame and rubber mounts). TH400 is correct as long as you have the BOP (Buick, Olds Pontiac) and not the Chevy bolt pattern - also check the tailshaft length (last piece of aluminum housing on tranny that is bolted on with 4 bolts). I think 6 inch is the right one for Cutlass, but you may have gotten a TH400 from full size 98 or station wagon which has a longer tailshaft length??.

Will need to move the trans cross member back (bolts in) and shorten the driveshaft (local companies are around that can shorten and balance it). Put new U-joints in while you are at it. Not sure about the tranny linkage with column shift, but console shift requires a different shift bracket and cable holding bracket for the tranny pan (repro for $25 or so).

Front and intermediate emergency brake cables are different (short ones to each rear wheel are the same and can stay) - can buy front and interm ones from Napa, etc.

I think all the engine brackets and pulleys for power steering, alternator, etc, will interchange. You should probably upgrade to a 4 core radiator to cool the 455.

I am sure I am missing some things, but someone will chime in.
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Old October 14th, 2008, 05:49 PM
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All the above info is good, The shift linkage if colume shift will bolt right up. I would get a new drive shaft made because the 350 shaft is a two part, not to mention its 40 yrs old, I would get a new solid one made($300).
You will also have to hook up a kick down swtich to the gas pedal and wire it to the trans so it will down shift when needed. The factory wiring may be there, I just normal run a new wire. Mouting hole for the switch is already present. Switch can be bought for about $20
If your running stock valve covers there should be no problem with interference with the brake booster,if it has power brakes, but if after market taller ones they might hit.
Exhaust manifolds for the 350 will bolt up but will be very restrictive. Get a good set of headers(hooker) or stock 455 manifolds.
If we missed anything I'm sure someone else will chime in. JKaz
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Old October 16th, 2008, 10:26 PM
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I am putting a "slap shifter" out of a fire bird in my 442 'cause the split shifter sucks ...

The have an oval, not round, hole around the shifter arm, and can be found in a lot of dif gm cars ...
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