How to thigten my steering on a 69 Cutlass

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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 09:24 PM
  #1  
craftsmen22's Avatar
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Cutlass driver in Germany
 
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From: Munich, Germany
Smile How to thigten my steering on a 69 Cutlass

I own a 69 Cutlass conv. an the steering has a rather large free play. Now I was told that if I jack the car up front, loosen the nut on top of the steering gear box and turn in the little screw in the center of the nut the free play would be minimized. Is this correct. Or should I just jet another remanufactured steering gear box. If yes where should I go for shopping.

Any hint is welcome.

Tom
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 10:51 PM
  #2  
Gert3116's Avatar
Red69CutlassS
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 47
From: Billings
I haven't ever heard of this before, but I also have a 69 cutlass with loose steering, so if it works, let me know. Maybe I'll have to try it.
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 11:17 PM
  #3  
joe_padavano's Avatar
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From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by craftsmen22
I own a 69 Cutlass conv. an the steering has a rather large free play. Now I was told that if I jack the car up front, loosen the nut on top of the steering gear box and turn in the little screw in the center of the nut the free play would be minimized. Is this correct. Or should I just jet another remanufactured steering gear box. If yes where should I go for shopping.

Any hint is welcome.

Tom
The adjusting screw will tighten backlash on the manual GM steering boxes, but not on the power boxes. They are configured differently inside and you must disassemble the box to adjust backlash.

Do you know the steering box is the problem? A thorough check of all the wear points in the steering linkage and front suspension is a good first step.
Old Feb 23, 2008 | 05:08 AM
  #4  
88 coupe's Avatar
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Posts: 2,212
From: Southern CA
What he ↑ said.
  1. It was adjusted when it was assembled and, unless it is disassembled, there is no reason to adjust it again.

  2. If that adjustment is not done correctly, it will FUBAR the gearbox, in very short order.
Norm
Old Feb 23, 2008 | 07:47 AM
  #5  
Bluevista's Avatar
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From: Northeast Ohio
I had the same problem, your steering box is most likely just worn out, as mentioned before you should check all suspension components, don't forget the rag joint. I found if the wheel has a lot of freeplay back and forth and the pitman arm doesn't move it is worn out. Convertibles steer weird anyway with the flexing of the front end and with loose steering it turns into a real job driving straight. I replaced mine with a rebuilt quick-ratio box (not the super fast-ratio) and it is like night and day, no more wandering and constant steering correction, especially on the freeway.
I got mine from Ames (Pontiac) but I learned most larger parts stores have them or they can be ordered, saves on shipping.
The screw on the box cover is the end of the main shaft and in conjunction with the lock nut is used for setting bearing pre-load. The box is set after final assembly and before installation, not really user serviceable as said before, my new one has that permanent type loctite stuff on the locknut.

Al
Old Mar 11, 2008 | 09:15 PM
  #6  
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From: San Francisco Bay Area
To determine the cause of steering wander aka loose steering, have a helper sit in the car with it off, while you look at the steering linkage with a good flashlight. Have the helper move the wheel back and forth just a little about an inch or two max each way measured at the rim of the steering wheel. Start out with more movement and then have the helper move the wheel just a little back and forth maybe an inch each way. Then you will be able to see where the looseness is in the linkage.
80% of the time it is a loose ball joint on the center link at the pitman arm. Pop on a new center link, have the car aligned, and the car will steer exactly where you put it.
Sometimes the rag joint is worn on the steering input shaft, so look at that too. Don't waste time with trying to rebuild your old one, get a new one from this vendor:
http://stores.ebay.com/Lares-Corporation. If you mess up with the rebuild you will risk losing control of your car and an accident.
If you don't see any loose steering linkage and there seems to be a lag between the turning of the input shaft and when the pitman arm moves, then most likely your box is worn. When you order a new one from Napa or wherever, there is usually a choice between standard and variable ratio. The Variable ratio will give better road feel, and faster turns once off the center straight ahead position.
Good luck and happy hunting.
Once you fix the loose steering, you will really enjoy driving your car instead of having to fight it to keep it where you want it on the road.

Last edited by goodkarmech; Mar 11, 2008 at 09:18 PM.
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 11:13 AM
  #7  
RacerRick
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A lot of the time on these old cars, the power steering box is just worn.

I put in a 2nd gen Z28/trans am box. Its a 16:1 faster ratio, and firmer feeling box that is a bolt in with no changes. If you want to change the hoses to metric fittings, you can bolt in a third gen F body box from a car with a handling package like the 1LE camaros, or WS6 firebirds, and get a 12:1 constant ratio, firm feel box. It makes a world of difference in the feel driving the car.
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 09:54 PM
  #8  
joe_padavano's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,832
From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by RacerRick
A lot of the time on these old cars, the power steering box is just worn.

I put in a 2nd gen Z28/trans am box. Its a 16:1 faster ratio, and firmer feeling box that is a bolt in with no changes. If you want to change the hoses to metric fittings, you can bolt in a third gen F body box from a car with a handling package like the 1LE camaros, or WS6 firebirds, and get a 12:1 constant ratio, firm feel box. It makes a world of difference in the feel driving the car.
Just be aware that the F-body boxes have different internal stops. When used on an A-body or G-body, this results in asymmetric turning circles for RH and LH turns.
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