1970 f85 value

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Old September 30th, 2018, 10:44 AM
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1970 f85 value

Looking at one of these and trying to determine the value. Everything original, 80K miles 350/350 4bbl, running driving, clear title etc. #4 fair condition, needs paint and some interior work. California car typical wear no accidents or major damage. Just looking for a ballpark number. Seller asking 5.5K and i think that's way too high.

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Old September 30th, 2018, 12:08 PM
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2 door or 4 door?

To me, if this is what a lot of people think of when they hear "California car"....ie - super dry and rust free (or very minor rust)....then it has some pretty good value.

Don't know how many cars you've messed with but if it's truly original then you can really tell the TRUE condition of the car. THAT has value.

Go buy a rusty/repainted w/hidden damage car....and then try to compare costs to the car you're looking at (assuming it's super clean and a 2 door).

You need to provide more details on the condition of the body, frame, etc....extent (or lack of) any rust.

When I say "super clean" above I'm not talking about wear and tear to the interior and paint. I'm referring to the "core" of the car...body, frame, suspension condition and mainly how bad any rust is.

Last edited by 70Post; September 30th, 2018 at 12:16 PM.
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Old September 30th, 2018, 12:56 PM
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It's a two door typical plain Jane post. No AC no major rust, only in the lower fenders as usual. Frame fine, floor pans fine etc. Minor dents dings scratches etc. No repaint or Bondo, unmolested Cali car. I'm thinking the car would be worth 15 max in #1 condition. So in this shape 3k at most.
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Old September 30th, 2018, 01:34 PM
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If you're worried about the "resale" price then any price is almost "too high" as for purchase price. I would pay up for a clean car like you apparently describe. There are A LOT of cars for sale but a large percentage were/are rusty and have had sub-optimal repairs done.

If I wanted F85 for my own project and enjoyment, then something like you describe is worth a premium because I know two things:

>The work will be much easier without a bunch of rust repair...which means less cost

>Once it's done I know I STARTED WITH a super clean car and it will always be that....:"good bones"

3-5K seems like a good price.....compared to a lot of the junk out there it's a steal if it's truly super clean.

It is getting VERY HARD to find cars that are "clean" to their core and can be inspected like this one (since it's so original) to determine their TRUE condition.
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Old September 30th, 2018, 01:54 PM
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Thanks and I totally get it, I'm not in it for the resale but I would think I could get something a little better for that price. The cosmetic stuff is a minor thing to me as long as it's not Swiss cheese. More important to me is the drivetrain, trans etc. 350/350 isn't that exciting but the car itself does get me interest. I will mull it over some more before I make a decision.
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Old September 30th, 2018, 02:49 PM
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Motors are a dime a dozen.....350, 425, 455.....pick your poison. Plenty of cores out there and they are not easy to sell. Same with transmissions.

CLEAN-to-their-core bodies/chassis' ARE NOT a dime a dozen......EXTREMELY limited supply.

To me, it's the "core" body/frame that matters. I'm seeing more and more Olds's that folks have bought...."it's a 442", "it's a 455", "it's a 4 spd"....yada, yada, yada. And then they start in a restoration or try rebuilding some stuff....THAT'S when they discover the car was a rusted junky "core" and it turns into a ridiculous deal. Massive $ thrown towards bodywork to try to remedy the rust, etc. A simple, close inspection by someone that knew what they were looking at would have prevented the huge mistake made when the buyer was just looking at "the sizzle". I have a perfect example here for a customer and know of plenty of others.

Last edited by 70Post; September 30th, 2018 at 02:58 PM.
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Old September 30th, 2018, 04:41 PM
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70post is right on the money. If it's truly a solid Calif car (#4 condition though seems odd based on your description) and a 310hp car to boot, I'd pay $5.5K all day long.
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Old September 30th, 2018, 07:06 PM
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California rust vs Ohio rust....day and night. $5-6-7K for a solid Cali (non coastal) car. Bring it to Ohio 8-9K
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Old September 30th, 2018, 08:20 PM
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Well I guess its the opposite here, I see rust free cars very often and have plenty of "cores" as well but those cores don't push me down the road without a 5K investment. I suppose i am spoiled but rust free cars are the norm here and many get cut up for parts sent out to various places around the US and Canada. So this car is interesting to me because I have never owned one but I may rather wait for the combo I want to come along. I'm also looking at a 70CS/455/console/buckets in similar condition for 6K and a 67 Vista similar condition for about the same price. Maybe just buy them all and resell the ones I don't want later. My wife would kill me but one of my cars will be going to paint soon so I will have a spot available in the driveway........

Here's what I refer to as a #4

Fair: runs and drives OK but needs work throughout the vehicle. Body and Interior show signs of wear or previous restoration work that is failing. Any rust should be minimal and not in any structural areas. Cosmetics, body and mechanics all need work to some degree and full body prep and a paint job are likely needed to get this to #3 condition. This is not a parts car and is fully roadworthy. Then there is #3 Good condition, #2 Very Good and #1 Excellent.

In this case the car runs and "moves" but isn't roadworthy without a total going through and some $ invested in needed repairs or maintenance.

Thanks for the input, I will reply back if I decide to get the car.
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Old October 2nd, 2018, 02:51 AM
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As the previous post said be leary, CA coastal cars can be outright rust buckets. The salt mist coming off the ocean gets everywhere, many cars are actually unsafe structurally. Also many cars listed as CA are actually from out of state, driven in from various relocating families.
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