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So I have myself a little Nu-Relics power window conversion in progress. Got the first regulator installed and all I have to do is get the damn window glass assembly onto those stupid rollers, Already pulled out all my hair and ran out of swear words too. Anybody know what the trick is?
So I have myself a little Nu-Relics power window conversion in progress. Got the first regulator installed and all I have to do is get the damn window glass assembly onto those stupid rollers, Already pulled out all my hair and ran out of swear words too. Anybody know what the trick is?
Here's a Nu-Relics install video on an '84 K5 Blazer:
Is your similar to this one? If not, post a picture of your new mechanism.
After removing the old mechanism, first hold the window up with tape, or (as he did) jam something into the channel so it can't come down. His trick is to install the rollers into the track first, then bolt the mechanism to the door.
Last edited by 69 Ragtop; May 26th, 2020 at 06:18 AM.
Thanks for your reply, Bob. That video gives some pretty good advice on wiring, reversing polarity, etc. It didn’t seem to address my issue. More background.....
When I started this project, I saw all the other things like surface rust that needed to be addressed “while I was there.” 53 years of untouched stuff. So I took out all hardware except for the door handle and lock. Dealt with the rust. Rebuilt the vent window with new weatherstrip, etc. (Boy, that was fun.)
Did ALL that and can’t get the glass in!
And the stage I’m at is seen in the attached screen shot. In the video you can see that he starts to run into trouble. With the magic of video editing it all magically comes together. The glass runs into the division bar of the vent window is one problem in particular.
Maybe the vent window is supposed to be inserted, but not fastened? That way there is some play in it?
My 1969 Fisher Body Service Manual says the vent window assembly has to be out of the door in order to put the door window in. If you don't have this manual - well, you need one. Here's a link to one on Ebay (assuming your car is a '68 - it's hard to tell from the pic.):
It has 98 pages on the door assemblies alone. It may be free on the internet somewhere.
I'm out of time right now, and my info may not apply to your car. Share the year and model and I'm sure someone will be along to help. I'll check back.
Last edited by 69 Ragtop; May 26th, 2020 at 01:29 PM.
69 Ragtop: It’s a 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. I have the Chassis Manual and Body Manual for that year. Yes, there are a million pages about the doors. I’ve relied on it heavily. I’ll go through it again.
The few videos I’ve seen on YouTube, etc, (isn’t much out there), always show the vent assembly going in first.
So......
1. Does the Vent Window Assembly go in first or second?
2. Put the top rollers in the track first and then the small roller on the idler bar after that? Or the other way around?
It just blows my mind that I could completely rebuild the vent window, but can seem to figure out how to reinstall the main glass assembly.
69 Ragtop: It’s a 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. I have the Chassis Manual and Body Manual for that year. Yes, there are a million pages about the doors. I’ve relied on it heavily. I’ll go through it again.
The few videos I’ve seen on YouTube, etc, (isn’t much out there), always show the vent assembly going in first.
So......
1. Does the Vent Window Assembly go in first or second?
2. Put the top rollers in the track first and then the small roller on the idler bar after that? Or the other way around?
It just blows my mind that I could completely rebuild the vent window, but can seem to figure out how to reinstall the main glass assembly.
I'm going to defer to someone that has lived the dream of restoring '67 doors. It's been 10 years since I've done my '68 GTO convertible, I'm still doing the wife's '55 brand "C" truck, and I haven't started my '69 Cutlass convertible (which has no vent window, of course). I do believe the door glass goes in "nose first", then rotates 90 degrees into place, which tells me it goes in before the vent window assembly. On #2, I'd say do it as you wrote it, not the other way around since (I believe) the idler bar can move around in there until you bolt it in.
That’s what I’ve been trying. Any idea what the trick is to make that happen?
Sorry, been too long for my feeble brain. Seems like it was just a matter of cranking the regulator to the proper spot to allow the rollers to engage in the slots, but I dont remember the exact position.
May 25th, 2020, 07:33 PM
