My 72 Cutlass still has the original steel brake lines. I want to make sure the car is safe and reliable so I'm thinking of getting new stainless steel lines installed. Not something I want to try myself. Anyone know about how much this should cost?

 

Probably in the $150-$190 range

 

For the parts.........

 

My 1962 F-85 wagon that sat for 30 years before I got it still has the original steel brake lines. Do you know you have a rusty brake line problem or is this a MIGHTASWELL? The brake lines are easy to inspect. A more likely point of concern would be the rubber brake hoses if you have not replaced them previously.

Keep in mind that the brake lines are installed on the chassis before the body goes on. It is certainly possible to install them with the body on, but you are unlikely to get the one piece line from front to back installed without bending it to get it in place then straightening it. The line under the engine can also be a bit of a problem with the engine in place. I'm not trying to discourage you from doing this, but be aware that it's not a simple drop in.

 

I agree with Joe, especially if your car is a southern US car. Chances are your steel brake lines will be fine for another 46 years. My 67 are almost as good as the day the car was born. I have replaced the rubber lines.

 

I will dispute the easy to inspect part. Almost every brake line failure I've dealt with has been hidden under a clamp or rubbing against something else. The easy to see parts are always in much better shape. I suggest a good under chassis car wash, then let dry. Then stamp the pedal (with engine running for boost if applicable) MANY times. Then go looking for moisture. Bring a good light and a dentist mirror. Anything that shines is trouble ... but pay special attention to rust around clamps. If you have the slightest suspicion, open the clamp. Unlike others, I'm of the opinion "When it doubt, rip it out" where brakes are concerned. Living where they salt the roads half the year will do that.

Personally, I'd look into NiCopp as opposed to stainless.

 

I agree about the lines going bad at the clamps/holders. If you replace them, cut the line flush with any fittings then use a 6 point socket on the fitting. So much easier than even a line wrench. Regular steel lines will last the life of the car at this stage of the cars life. If you have a problem bleeding a front wheel and everything looks good, change the rubber line. Yes, it happened to me.

 

I did this job once on a 63 Buick Riviera. I decided to replace the lines because all the fittings were seized at the wheel cylinders. I used a stainless pre bent line kit from Inline Tube, all lines were accurately made and they even included the lines to convert to a dual master. The installation was time consuming but really not that difficult, the most challenging was the long line from front to back as Joe said. The trick was to use the old line like a fish tape to pull the new line through the frame. If you have someone else do the work be prepared for a large labor bill.

 

I use The Right Stuff, Westerville, Ohio. On my 1971 Delta Royale, I cut the lines at the fittings, labeled where each end went, bent them with a tube bender to make a smaller shipping package, (as per instructions from the owner) The Right Stuff used them for a pattern and sent me a perfect fit set of free steel lines, win win for both of us. This was 17 years ago and the owner sold the business but I still use them.

 

I read once that brake lines rust from the inside so it's very hard to inspect them. That's why I'm thinking of replacing them. Just don't want the brakes to go out on me. Also thinking of converting front drums to disk.

 

Well, if it's something that's gonna keep you up at night worrying about it, replace the lines.

I'm with the others - original 1971 brake lines and I have no concerns with them at all. I had a front brake hose blow out back in the 80s so I have experience with driving home with a severely maimed brake system, so again, no worries. Been there, done that; if it happens again I know what to do.

I agree with the drum to disc conversion. I did that on the 71 vert as I absolutely hated driving with drum brakes back on the Texas Gulf Coast in all the rain and flooded streets.

 

Like said above, if it keeps you up at night, yes change the lines. I personally like drum brakes and have no issues with them. If they are maintained and work properly they stop just fine. I'd rather spend money on other things.

 

If you tackle the job and not opt for the disk conversion out of the gate, I would spray each wheel cylinder bleeder screw each day for days before the planned install of the lines.
I would then make sure I can crack open the bleeder screws .That way once the lines are installed and you begin the bleeding process you won't have a bleeder screw break off and either have to replace the wheel cylinder or try to pull it out with an easy out.
I would purchase a wheel cylinder before even attempting pulling out a broken bleeder screw myself .
Lines can be done as others mentioned, but its a nasty job unless you have a hoist IMO.
Maybe I'm just getting too old haha.

Eric

 

X2 on cupro/nickel tubing. I have fitted miles of it over the years and it lasts effectively forever and is very easy to shape.

For steel to rust both water and air are required, air can get into a hydraulic system but you will get immediate warning of this occurring. Brake fluid (non silicon) is hygroscopic, that is it absorbs water, but in a properly maintained system it can be disregarded.

A close inspection of both steel and rubber hoses is an important part of maintenance, but if the brake lines aren't rust on the outside they won't be rusty on the inside either.

Roger.

 

I replaced all the lines on my '69 Cutlass convertible with stainless a few years ago. I did it in 2 stages: everything except the rear axle when I did the front disc brake conversion and lines on the axle when I built my 3.42 Posi 10 bolt. As mentioned above add hoses and at least wheel cylinders to the list. I'd guess about $1K all in, assuming $250 or so for parts. Not a terribly difficult project but time consuming and I had to tweak some of the lines to make them fit.

 

Well, I had a mechanic friend look over the brake lines and he agrees with you guys. Nothing wrong with the ones that are on there. Also, (i'm such an idiot) while the wheels were off I discovered I do have disc brakes in the front. Just didn't seem to stop as well as I thought it should but then again that's a lot of metal to stop. I think I'm just to used to modern cars. Thanks for everyone's comments.

 

Look at how much money you just saved. Lines are good and a disc brake setup already installed.