Rear Suspension / Springs for '64 Cutlass
#1
Rear Suspension / Springs for '64 Cutlass
What's up guys. I have a question that I can't seem to get an answer to so time to ask the experts.
I have a '64 Cutlass Convertible. Apparently the car has bigger tires than stock in the front and they put spacers in the front springs to get the front end
up high enough. (before I bought it) One of the tires still scrapes if I make a sharp left turn (like into my driveway) at over about 10mph. Not a problem for me.
But the back end of the car is riding a little lower than the front end. I would like to even it out. As usual I called everyone in the San Fernando Valley, and they either tell me to go away, or give some vague answers and maybe they can look at it next week. I am trying to figure out the best way to fix this but I want it done right. I know you can't tell from a pic really but looking for some advice on where to start, in the enclosed pic you can see that the front end is higher up off the tires then the back.
If anyone has any hints, I'd love to hear them. Thanks
See how the back wheel wells are sitting lower than the front?
I have a '64 Cutlass Convertible. Apparently the car has bigger tires than stock in the front and they put spacers in the front springs to get the front end
up high enough. (before I bought it) One of the tires still scrapes if I make a sharp left turn (like into my driveway) at over about 10mph. Not a problem for me.
But the back end of the car is riding a little lower than the front end. I would like to even it out. As usual I called everyone in the San Fernando Valley, and they either tell me to go away, or give some vague answers and maybe they can look at it next week. I am trying to figure out the best way to fix this but I want it done right. I know you can't tell from a pic really but looking for some advice on where to start, in the enclosed pic you can see that the front end is higher up off the tires then the back.
If anyone has any hints, I'd love to hear them. Thanks
See how the back wheel wells are sitting lower than the front?
Last edited by rickrock999; September 2nd, 2021 at 03:19 PM.
#2
The fender wheel openings are not of the same height front vs rear therefore not a good comparison. Measure the frame distance from the ground at about 6 inches in behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel. The only way to correct your issue is with spring replacements.
#4
I measured from the frame right behind the front wheel well and right in front of the back one (is that correct?)
Front was 9 1/2 inches from the ground
back was 9 inches, so only a half inch difference. I thought it would be more.
Do you think a new set of coil springs in the back would fix that, and if so what kind should I get?
I see a lot of springs listed for various prices but they don't seem to give any specs.
Thanks for your help.
Front was 9 1/2 inches from the ground
back was 9 inches, so only a half inch difference. I thought it would be more.
Do you think a new set of coil springs in the back would fix that, and if so what kind should I get?
I see a lot of springs listed for various prices but they don't seem to give any specs.
Thanks for your help.
#6
I measured from the frame right behind the front wheel well and right in front of the back one (is that correct?)
Front was 9 1/2 inches from the ground
back was 9 inches, so only a half inch difference. I thought it would be more.
Do you think a new set of coil springs in the back would fix that, and if so what kind should I get?
I see a lot of springs listed for various prices but they don't seem to give any specs.
Thanks for your help.
Front was 9 1/2 inches from the ground
back was 9 inches, so only a half inch difference. I thought it would be more.
Do you think a new set of coil springs in the back would fix that, and if so what kind should I get?
I see a lot of springs listed for various prices but they don't seem to give any specs.
Thanks for your help.
#9
If there are spacers in the front springs, the current springs are collapsed. Or maybe somebody decided to be a dumbass and lowered the the car by heating the coils? Either way, the front springs need to be replaced.
Once that’s done, you can decide what to do about the rear. Chances are the rear springs will need to replaced, but those are easy to change.
These cars did sit a little low on the rear originally. I personally don’t care for that look, I prefer just a little “attitude” with the rear ever so slightly higher than the front.
Once that’s done, you can decide what to do about the rear. Chances are the rear springs will need to replaced, but those are easy to change.
These cars did sit a little low on the rear originally. I personally don’t care for that look, I prefer just a little “attitude” with the rear ever so slightly higher than the front.
#10
Rick I have a 65 Cutlass Sport Coupe. I just installed QA1 Level 1 leveling and handling kit on my car. They are a coil over spring shock assy. You can adjust the ride height front to back and left to right. The car rides great and handles fantastic. A little pricey,but in my opion well worth it. Bassinguy
#11
Thanks for the replies. I don't want to change the front tires right now as they are still in nice shape.
If the front springs need to be replaced I can do that and see where we are from there.
Any recommendations on which springs to buy??
I'm happy with the height on the front end and would like to raise the back up just a bit.
I looked at the QA 1 leveling and yes they are a little more money than I want to spend right now.
If the front springs need to be replaced I can do that and see where we are from there.
Any recommendations on which springs to buy??
I'm happy with the height on the front end and would like to raise the back up just a bit.
I looked at the QA 1 leveling and yes they are a little more money than I want to spend right now.
#12
Rick,
I'm not the car expert that most guys here so take my comments accordingly. My 68 Cutlass has had the same issue with sitting low in the rear. Just last weekend, I bought a set of AirLift 1000 airbags and stuffed them into the rear coils. Their operating range is 5 to 35 PSI and 10 PSI of pressure in them raised the rear end of my car about 1.5 inches. The kit was $100 and it took me a couple hours from beginning to end.
I considered replacing the coils but thought I would try this. It's not terribly expensive and easily reversible if I don't like it. It's also adjustable in terms of how much weight I might have in the rear end at any particular time. Based on the rear coil size and shape in my 68 (kind of short and fat), the install was pretty easy. In some longer/narrower coils, it's tough to get the bag wrestled into into the coils.
I'm not the car expert that most guys here so take my comments accordingly. My 68 Cutlass has had the same issue with sitting low in the rear. Just last weekend, I bought a set of AirLift 1000 airbags and stuffed them into the rear coils. Their operating range is 5 to 35 PSI and 10 PSI of pressure in them raised the rear end of my car about 1.5 inches. The kit was $100 and it took me a couple hours from beginning to end.
I considered replacing the coils but thought I would try this. It's not terribly expensive and easily reversible if I don't like it. It's also adjustable in terms of how much weight I might have in the rear end at any particular time. Based on the rear coil size and shape in my 68 (kind of short and fat), the install was pretty easy. In some longer/narrower coils, it's tough to get the bag wrestled into into the coils.
#13
The easiest way I have found to install air bags is to route the line the way you want it, leaving s couple inches hanging outside the coil spring. Don’t put the fill fitting on yet. Connect the hose to the airbag, connect the other end to a hand vacuum pump. Once you evacuate the air from the airbag it’s almost completely flat, it will slip easily between the coils. Once it’s positioned inside the spring, release the vacuum, the airbag will fill out inside the spring with no fuss.
#14
Airlift air bags are meant to support more weight, not "lift" the car. BUT, its not unreasonable to use them for lift. I would only expect a couple inches of lift for continuous use. It will change the feel of the car in a way you would like.
They are reasonably priced and fairly easy to install. You can put extension hoses on them to be able to raise/lower the air pressure in the trunk or behind the license plate. You can plumb them together or have separate hoses for each side.
I have used them on every 442 and H/O I have owned as a traction aid. I have used them on the street and they work fine.
They are reasonably priced and fairly easy to install. You can put extension hoses on them to be able to raise/lower the air pressure in the trunk or behind the license plate. You can plumb them together or have separate hoses for each side.
I have used them on every 442 and H/O I have owned as a traction aid. I have used them on the street and they work fine.
#16
Rick, here you go, check this out.
https://www.airliftcompany.com/vehic...utlass/1964/#l
https://www.jegs.com/p/Air-Lift/Air-...&model=CUTLASS
https://www.airliftcompany.com/vehic...utlass/1964/#l
https://www.jegs.com/p/Air-Lift/Air-...&model=CUTLASS
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