Pins in hoses
#2
Are you talking about little stubs of nylon in one edge of each radiator hose?
Those are left over from the little nylon loops used to hang the hoses on the hooks in the store.
Welcome to ClassicOlds.
- Eric
Those are left over from the little nylon loops used to hang the hoses on the hooks in the store.
Welcome to ClassicOlds.
- Eric
#3
No these small pins I found on the small hoses under the air filter housing. Guessing these are vacuum hoses
#4
In the olden days in areas where smog laws were against modifying the pollution controls and had visual inspections, people used plugs inside the hoses to disable these controls. This may be what your looking at.
#15
#16
Those plugs are used for the E4ME and E4MC carburetors to cap the mixture control solenoid adjustments. The plugs prevent tampering and seal the float bowl so the vapors do not escape. The plugs are not indigenous to your ’75 as they first appeared in 1980/81. Someone was probably just using them to plug the vacuum lines.
#18
Those plugs are used for the E4ME and E4MC carburetors to cap the mixture control solenoid adjustments. The plugs prevent tampering and seal the float bowl so the vapors do not escape. The plugs are not indigenous to your ’75 as they first appeared in 1980/81. Someone was probably just using them to plug the vacuum lines.
#20
those plugs are used for the e4me and e4mc carburetors to cap the mixture control solenoid adjustments. The plugs prevent tampering and seal the float bowl so the vapors do not escape. The plugs are not indigenous to your ’75 as they first appeared in 1980/81. Someone was probably just using them to plug the vacuum lines.
#23
Better pic in daylight. Im exactly sure which hose they went in but i think they went into those 3 way hose connectors. One goes toward the front of carb and the other goes to...im guessing a sensor.....
#24
#30
You need to see if the vacuum advance is working now, because if it was blocked it was not before. Second I don't believe on of them came from the metal line that runs to the transmission as it would have caused problems shifting.
#32
I don't think you got the message of some earlier posters:
Those objects look like the idle screw caps used on much later electrically-modulated carburetors.
They are anti-tamper screw caps, used to prevent the end user from adjusting his idle mixture screws - they are routinely removed from the screws and discarded so that the screws can be adjusted.
They are garbage that someone stuffed into your vacuum lines, for reasons unknown.
They do not belong there.
Next you need to read the Emissions section of the Engine chapter of your Chassis Service Manual so that you can understand the operation of all these parts, and then test them to see whether they work.
- Eric
Those objects look like the idle screw caps used on much later electrically-modulated carburetors.
They are anti-tamper screw caps, used to prevent the end user from adjusting his idle mixture screws - they are routinely removed from the screws and discarded so that the screws can be adjusted.
They are garbage that someone stuffed into your vacuum lines, for reasons unknown.
They do not belong there.
Next you need to read the Emissions section of the Engine chapter of your Chassis Service Manual so that you can understand the operation of all these parts, and then test them to see whether they work.
- Eric
#33
Pull the vacuum advance hose off of whatever it's attached to and plug that hole.
Suck on the end of the hose. The engine should speed up.
Hold the pressure in the hose with the end of your tongue or your fingertip - it should not leak out.
If the vacuum advance unit doesn't work, it needs to be replaced.
If there is a leak, you need to make sure it's the diaphragm and not the hose, and then replace the offending part.
- Eric
#34
I will try this weekend. Some background....I took to emissions just to see how it would do...failed cause of high hydrocarbons on idle. Decided to change spark plugs (good thing cause gap was wrong), spark plug wires, distributor cap, fuel filter, filter for purge canister that had a hose disconnected, pcv filter, another filter opposite side of pcv ( forgot name). It was hard to start when it was cold but after I changed this stuff it was easier to start. Other than that though it ran smooth
#35
I will try this weekend. Some background....I took to emissions just to see how it would do...failed cause of high hydrocarbons on idle. Decided to change spark plugs (good thing cause gap was wrong), spark plug wires, distributor cap, fuel filter, filter for purge canister that had a hose disconnected, pcv filter, another filter opposite side of pcv ( forgot name). It was hard to start when it was cold but after I changed this stuff it was easier to start. Other than that though it ran smooth
You can if necessary take vacuum line off distributor vacuum can, plug the hose, pass your emissions test, then re-attach the vacuum advance. California used to make me do this dance. The problem is, w/o the VA, the engine would overheat when stuck in traffic, and was low on power.
"Any idea which hoses would have these pins?"
=========================
None.
NONE of the hoses should have these plugs. Installed by a clueless person.
The fingers in the photo REALLY help for scale.
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